Need Help!!!!!

Curse

Member
Apr 8, 2004
791
2
16
El Paso, TX
Have a little problem with my 89 GT actually two. First cold starts are a PITA. When I first start the car it will rev to about 2,000 RPMs and then want to die out, if I give it a little gas it will rev up then want to die out again. After the second time I tap the gas it will idle at about 1,000 RPMs. If I put it in drive it will run as if the timing is off, if I give it gas it will hesitate and sometimes backfire. I have to let it idle a few minutes, then it will run fine. It only does this on cold starts, once it has warmed up it will not do this anymore. It just starts right up and goes.
Second problem. When the car is warmed up, not at operating temperature but just at the first line of the temperature gauge it will run strong. As soon as it gets to operating temperature, it will start to detonate all the way to 4500 when the AOD (POS) shifts and the car feels sluggish. I can only hear the detonation on the passenger side of the car. I haven't checked much, I did disconnect the mass air flow sensor and it took some of the detonation away, but you can still hear it. But the car feels like crap down low without the MAF connected.
Here are the things I have checked/changed.
Changed the O2 sensors, changed the TFI module, checked the timing, it is set at 12 degrees tried backing it down to 10 didn't help. Checked the IAC sensor, cleaned it. Running Autolites plugs non platinum or anything just the cheap ones, the plugs are white with some signs of detonation but no blisters and the electrodes are fine. They are gapped at .50 I believe. Plug wire are fine as the cap and rotor. Tried to relearn the computer, haven't pulled the codes yet. Don't have a scanner and the guys at AutoZone suck every time I go the guy who reads the codes isn't there. Haven’t checked fuel pressure and have no idea what my FP is set at. I haven't checked the TPS voltage.
Things I have done to my car
MSD Distributor, cap and rotor, wires, Digital 6 box with blaster SS coil. Less than 600 miles on everything.
Aluminum underdrive pulleys
A/C removal with FRPP kit.
Removed smog pump
Electric fan
shorty headers 1 5/8
2 1/2 exhaust with o/r x-pipe all the way to the back.
That’s all for the business end. rest just cosmetic.
If anyone has had these problems before or can lead me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated. I hate throwing money at a problem hoping it will go away. Sorry so long just wanted to give as much details as possible. Thanks

Victor
 
I finally got the codes pulled. One was code 23 which is the TPS sensor. I haven't checked it yet will do very soon. And the other was code 83 EGR solenoid. Does anyone think these are to blame? I will be checking them either way. I wanted to go get the codes checked when the car was warmed up, but it raining here so not really a good time. If anyone has any clues as to what is going on, please chime in. Thanks again
 
It very well could be the TPS sensor as a whole or just not set properly...I think stock cars like around .95...don't quote me on that...and the EGR could do that also...definatly address the "pulled codes" problems first...

Clean the MAF (wire sensor inside) very gently with a Q-tip, clean the IAC (again) realy good with carb cleaner, and clean the TB with carb cleaner...

Your spark plug gap seems like it should be fine...though the stock gap is .052-.056...

Good Luck
 
Thanks 5spd GT, I will do that. Please keep them coming, want to install my MAF,TB, intake, gears, heads but need to find what going on first. Thanks

Victor
P.S.
Anyone think it could be the Air Charge Temperature Sensor, or the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Thanks again.