need opinions on exhaust manifold

68GEETEE

5 Year Member
Nov 21, 2003
481
5
38
Texas, USA
302 V8. Getting my heads redone and ported. Worried about having too restrictive of an exhaust manifold, but I seem to read posts where certain types of headers just dont fit even though the mfg claimed they did.

My car is factory power steering along with a 4 speed manual. I know I need the drop brakcet, but, Is there a brand of header that won't burn up my p/s hoses AND clear my clutch bar?

Or would it be of benefit to have the stock manifolds ported and then use them? Appreciate your input.

Dave
 
With headers its always trial and error unless you've seen a set already fitted and it works with your model year and engine combination. That said, the catalogs (Hooker, for example) have good information about fit. Be sure to read ALL the notes for that model. Generalizing, Tri-Y headers are usually good fitting BECAUSE four tubes merge into two tubes before passing the clutch z-bar. Thus, four tubes don't have to cram into that tight space between the engine, firewall and z-bar. I have Hooker Comp 4-1's on my '65 and they fit nicely, two tubes go over the z-bar and two tubes go under the z-bar. You do have to take the z-bar out, install the headers, then reinstall the z-bar.
 
you get what you pay for cheap headers never fit right doug thorley makes really nice tri ys' hooker super comps are real nice also you will make more power with a 4 into 1 but if you dont have alot of internal mods go with the tri ys'
 
Also depending on what tranny(if you have an auto) you have you may have to "dent" the header where the tranny comes close on the driver side according to hooker. I doubt you will have too much trouble with a 302 so good luck. The Hooker Super Comps are a good choice. I recommend getting the ceramic coated ones for longevity.
Kevin
 
I priced Hooker with the ceramic, they are like 500.00 Money is a factor, i cannot swing that kind of dough. I know the part number I need in the super comps, may search ebay for a used set. Thanks for the help.
 
small block ford heads need as much help they can get those hipo manifolds don't flow anywhere near what a header of any type can if anything you can put a shorty style header on and your remaining setup will almost be like the stock one
 
If you have power steering you may also have to get a bracket to move your power steering ram thing down. It is like 25 bucks if i remember correctly so check into that so you arent fooled by the hidden cost thing. Or not able to drive your car when you get the headers in. I have to second the Jet coating. They are much more durable than the ceramic headers. The ceramic coating scratches and rubs and doesn't last as long. Seriously go all the way and get good headers or just stick with what you have. It is not worth getting headers and putting them in if you have them rust out in a few years. If you have a choice I suggest getting some smaller primaries because that will maintain your lower end torque if this is a street car.
Kevin
 
I found a used set of Hooker Comps on ebay for 40.00. they are slightly rusty. Is it worth it to clean them up and jet coat them, or will I wind up spending the same as I would if I bought a new set??
 
68GEETEE said:
I found a used set of Hooker Comps on ebay for 40.00. they are slightly rusty. Is it worth it to clean them up and jet coat them, or will I wind up spending the same as I would if I bought a new set??

Hooker Comps & Hooker Super Comps are not the same headers. Comps have smaller tubes than Super Comps. Generally speaking Comps are more than adequate for 302's with square port heads. Aftermarket heads with bigger ports, higher airflow i.e. AFR, Twisted Wedge, Dart, etc. generally benefit from the larger Super Comps. Ceramic coated headers always cost more than uncoated headers but they look better longer and have longer life. Check both prices, coated and uncoated for each type...there's a big difference in price.
 
Thanks for the replies. Has anyone here made a shorty header work with manual trans and p/s? To me it looks like it would run smack into the Z bar. THe hi-po manifold is also angled towards the bar. However, the stock manifold on there now is more of a straight back 90 degree as opposed to a turn down, thats why i thought porting the manifold might actually help, and I wouldnt have to change out my entire system.

Confusing, but looks like I may try the headers, can always change back if I dont like 'em.