need some help with these roller rockers

[woodyy24]

ok i have a set of pedestal mount roller rockers, i can tighten them down all the way but i can still move the pedestal up and down. and if i tighten them anymore the valve starts to open. and the pushrods are stainless but same length as stock.
any ideas on how i can fix this. i was thinking shims.

 

[macx]

Check Crane's and Comp Cams' websites for instructions on how to adjust rockers. Also go to www.lincolnsonline.com, look in their tech section under engine for an article about that.

 

[jerryD]

with pedastal mount, you may need shims. i don't know the part number or anything. try a local ford dealer or someone else here will know where to obtain some.

 

[8950HO]

ok i have a set of pedestal mount roller rockers, i can tighten them down all the way but i can still move the pedestal up and down. and if i tighten them anymore the valve starts to open. and the pushrods are stainless but same length as stock.
any ideas on how i can fix this. i was thinking shims.

Make sure the valve you`re checking is closed,then by hand tighten the rocker bolt easy until the up and down slack is eliminated,(zero lash),then from this point count how many turns it takes to tighten the bolt down,(preload).For a street engine 1/2-3/4 turns to tighten after zero lash is ideal.
If it takes more than 1 turn to tighten after zero lash you can use shims.
If you get a 1/4 turn or less after zero lash you need longer pushrods.

side note;when I did mine I ran into one defective lifter that would not bleed down.In this case tightening the rocker bolt would open the valve.

 

[jbj454]

What size rockers are they?

 

[woodyy24]

1.6

 

[jbj454]

I installed my rockers and some of them opened the valves and they ended up working perfect. I guess it depends on where the pushrod/lifter is on the cam. Could be that the valve should be on that paticular cylinder. I hope I understand exactly what your saying.

 

[StockLX]

Make sure your on the base circle of the cam when adjusting these rockers. I think that is your problem.

 

[woodyy24]

yeah i kinda just bolted them on like stock rockers, i read that the cylinder needs to be at TDC before there torqued.
im going to try that and see if the space between the pedestal and the mounting point lessesns any.
thanks for the help guys.

 

[v8only]

fyi, you may need these:

SUMMIT part # CRN-99170-1

link
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...rt=CRN-99170-1&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

I'm about to install 1.7's onto my car, and my brother just installed his, and told me I'd need a shim kit. I've never done this b4, but sounds like this may be your problem. It's a $10 kit.

Brand: Crane Cams
Product Line: Crane Rocker Arm Shim Kits
Rocker Arm Mounting Style: Pedestal
Shim Range (in): .030-.090 in.
Quantity: Sold as a set of 32.
Notes: To attain .090 in. reduced preload, you must stack the shims. Will not fit Ford FE engines.

 

[woodyy24]

alright i got some shims and tried that, but im kinda confused about which ones to use. can anyone explain the entire preocess? this is the only thing holding me back from re-assembling the car.

 

[v8only]

I just kinda learned last night, but I don't feel confident enough to help yet, hopefully someone here will chime in.

I'll tell you what I know, but please do more research.

Tighten the nut on the rr down until you Just begin to feel pressure on the pushrod. The pushrod will be easy to turn, then suddenly it will get more difficult to turn, this is called 0 lash, I think.

Anyhow, once you hit that point, turn the nut again. Anything more than half turn, will require shims. So, if you get a full turn of the nut, shim it till you get half turn.

THis is what we did last night on our engines.

 

[woodyy24]

thanks. that does help a lot. ive been getting like 2.5 turns and it pushes the spring open.

 

[StockLX]

I just kinda learned last night, but I don't feel confident enough to help yet, hopefully someone here will chime in.

I'll tell you what I know, but please do more research.

Tighten the nut on the rr down until you Just begin to feel pressure on the pushrod. The pushrod will be easy to turn, then suddenly it will get more difficult to turn, this is called 0 lash, I think.

Anyhow, once you hit that point, turn the nut again. Anything more than half turn, will require shims. So, if you get a full turn of the nut, shim it till you get half turn.

THis is what we did last night on our engines.

This is not the proper way to set up pedestal mount roller rockers. What you are looking for is zero lash. spin the pushrod between your fingers while tightening the rocker bolt, once you feel the slightest hint of resistance, your at zero lash (zero clearance between rocker arm and pushrod and lifter). You then want to set your torque wrench to 23 ft-lbs and torque the rocker arm down. if it takes more than 1/4 of a turn but less than 1 full turn your in good shape. if it takes more than 1 full turn, time to shim the rocker. if it takes less than 1/4 turn, you need different pushrods.

be certain your on the base circle of the camshaft while adjusting each rocker, or your just wasting your time and will have no idea about your geometry.

 

[v8only]

I think that is exactly what I said, minus the torque wrench part, which is important, obviously, right?

just trying to get this straight, I'll be doing it very soon too.

 

[8950HO]

This is not the proper way to set up pedestal mount roller rockers. What you are looking for is zero lash. spin the pushrod between your fingers while tightening the rocker bolt, once you feel the slightest hint of resistance, your at zero lash (zero clearance between rocker arm and pushrod and lifter). You then want to set your torque wrench to 23 ft-lbs and torque the rocker arm down. if it takes more than 1/4 of a turn but less than 1 full turn your in good shape. if it takes more than 1 full turn, time to shim the rocker. if it takes less than 1/4 turn, you need different pushrods.

be certain your on the base circle of the camshaft while adjusting each rocker, or your just wasting your time and will have no idea about your geometry.

Bear in mind the torque wrench method to tighten and count to number of turns after zero lash is as I feel inaccurate...heres why and you can try this yourself.
Using a regular ratchet get your zero lash point.Now from there turn and count how many turns it takes until you feel the bolt snug down,you will feel this point,when the pedestal meets the head.This is your actual preload.

Theres No More Preload after this point, however you`re nowhere near the 23ft-lbs torque spec of the rocker bolt.See what I mean??

I think the torque wrench should be used only for the final torque spec after you feel it snug down by hand using the ratchet.Like I said,try it both way`s and you will see what I mean...the ratched method more accurately measures your actual preload.

 

[woodyy24]

ok got em all in and the car started


what i did was slowly tighten them until the pushrod didnt move. and tightened em down they all took between 1/2 and 3/4 turns. then i torqued them to 23
well my valve covers i put on there leaked like crazy so i tok them off and thought id take a look at the rockers. i can now turn most of the pushrods with my fingers with a little force. im thinking the lifters arnt all the way pumped back up. but i dont know how long it takes for them to do that. ive only had it running for a total of about 5 minutes.

 

[8950HO]

ok got em all in and the car started


what i did was slowly tighten them until the pushrod didnt move. and tightened em down they all took between 1/2 and 3/4 turns. then i torqued them to 23
well my valve covers i put on there leaked like crazy so i tok them off and thought id take a look at the rockers. i can now turn most of the pushrods with my fingers with a little force. im thinking the lifters arnt all the way pumped back up. but i dont know how long it takes for them to do that. ive only had it running for a total of about 5 minutes.

When I put my Crane 1.7`s on the lifters were noisy for probably 20 minutes,so I`d say it`s normal.When you`re setting them up the engine is turned over many times by hand,ending up with different valves opening.
Valve spring pressure tends to bleed down most/all of the lifters pretty good by the time you finish the set up procedure.
Sounds like you set them up right.Just let it run,raise the rpm a bit for more oil pressure and they should quiet down after a while.

 

[txstang84]

they're gonna make a little noise and take about 10 minutes or so to pump back up, but don't worry, it'll quiet down before you know it

 

[woodyy24]

i have a high flow oil pump and my psi is always really high. i took it around the block and it only seemed to get louder. i may end up just putting the stock ones back on.