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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Need Some Lowering Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ironwarrior
  • Start date Start date Jun 25, 2007
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EPIK

Member
Jul 3, 2004
796
1
16
LEFT COAST
Jun 28, 2007
#21
  • Jun 28, 2007
  • #21
Ironwarrior said:
Thanks for your help EPIKGT.... Now I after I get this thing lowered, get my new wheels, and dial it in I think I will be very happy.
Click to expand...

No problem....The MM adjustable LCA's is also another good upgrade to do @ the same time, if u get some just make sure you get the ones with the spherical bearing on the axle end.
 

Ironwarrior

Member
Jun 24, 2007
40
0
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Jun 28, 2007
#22
  • Jun 28, 2007
  • #22
02TruBlueGt said:
Great suspension setup choice man you will Love that setup. Post pics when you get them and they are installed. I wish i would have gotten SS's instead of the prokit, but a guy i work with ordered them for his GT and if he doesnt like them he said he would trade with me
Click to expand...

Thanks 02TruBlueGt,

Actually after some additional research I made a few changes to my grocery list:
Here is the new list....

- MM Caster Camber Plates
- Bilstein HD (Heavy Duty) Struts/Springs
- subframe connectors
- HR Sport Springs
- Panhard bar
(Tires and wheels to follow)

Thanks everyone for all your advice

When the project is finished I will post the before and after pictures...
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
3,434
2
78
McLean Hospital
Jun 28, 2007
#23
  • Jun 28, 2007
  • #23
Ironwarrior said:
Is this another advisable option to go with during this lowering project?
Click to expand...

Removal of the Quad shocks, while the LCA's are being replaced
 

Stang|ess

seeking cyber partner(s)
Oct 18, 2003
941
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37
Hawaii
Jun 28, 2007
#24
  • Jun 28, 2007
  • #24
after you install your springs, don't be shocked if its not as low as you'd like. it'll settle in after a few weeks of driving.
 

Ironwarrior

Member
Jun 24, 2007
40
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Jun 29, 2007
#25
  • Jun 29, 2007
  • #25
Stang|ess said:
after you install your springs, don't be shocked if its not as low as you'd like. it'll settle in after a few weeks of driving.
Click to expand...

Thanks Stang|ess...

Yeah, this is what I have been told. I can't wait to get my parts and get this project underway.
 
S

san~man

O-G
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,546
3
78
A little grass shack on a big lava rock
Jun 29, 2007
#26
  • Jun 29, 2007
  • #26
Ironwarrior said:
Here is the new list....

- MM Caster Camber Plates
- Bilstein HD Struts/Springs
- subframe connectors
- HD Sport Springs
- Panhard bar
(Tires and wheels to follow)
Click to expand...

HD? H&R?
 

Ironwarrior

Member
Jun 24, 2007
40
0
7
Jun 29, 2007
#27
  • Jun 29, 2007
  • #27
san~man said:
HD? H&R?
Click to expand...

Good observation... Sorry was a typo...

Meant HR Sport Springs with Bilstein HD (Heavy Duty) shocks.
 

bullitt 736

Member
Jan 16, 2004
120
0
17
Magnolia, Texas
Jun 30, 2007
#28
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #28
I have the first setup you were about to go with.

H&R SS
Bilsteins
MM CC Plates
MM HD LCAs

Why the pan hard and not the LCAs? Not sure you can do that. Get the LCAs even if you get the panhard. You need to read about the MM panhard setup and exhaust system compatibility on the MM site. If you want aftermarket exhaust at some point you may have problems wit the panhard.

I also added urethane rack bushings, urethane swaybar bushings, urethane endlinks and 03/04 Cobra FRPP front A arms while the car was apart.

You have made a great choice not picking the Sportlines. Keep it up.
 

Ironwarrior

Member
Jun 24, 2007
40
0
7
Jun 30, 2007
#29
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #29
bullitt 736 said:
I have the first setup you were about to go with.

H&R SS
Bilsteins
MM CC Plates
MM HD LCAs

Why the pan hard and not the LCAs? Not sure you can do that. Get the LCAs even if you get the panhard. You need to read about the MM panhard setup and exhaust system compatibility on the MM site. If you want aftermarket exhaust at some point you may have problems wit the panhard.

I also added urethane rack bushings, urethane swaybar bushings, urethane endlinks and 03/04 Cobra FRPP front A arms while the car was apart.

You have made a great choice not picking the Sportlines. Keep it up.
Click to expand...

I was advised that I would get more benefit with the panhard bar then with the LCA. You have to make a decision based on your needs which improvements will benefit you the most for the dollars that you have to invest. I figure that at this point I have improved my suspension tremendously from stock and will just stop at this point. If I later decide to add further improvements then I will consider the next phase by replacing the control arms, bushings and other things to go the extra mile. Again though, my car is strictly for the street and will see no racing at all. As for the springs and shocks, I wanted mostly to lower my car so I don't have that 4 wheel drive look and also to give me better day to day driving improvement. As for the Panhard bar, again it was recommended... I will probably wait on that and add that to the second phase of modifications if I decide to proceed. By seeing this mounted, I can't see this really interfering with most aftermarket exhaust modifications, but will have to research that further and speak to those who have already installed it and are using aftermarket exhaust setups. One thing that was greatly encouraged though was the Subframe connectors which I am definitely getting.

So how does your car ride with the SS springs?
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
3,434
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McLean Hospital
Jun 30, 2007
#30
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #30
Ironwarrior said:
As for the Panhard bar, again it was recommended...
Click to expand...
Well alot of things mentioned in this thread are recommended, I mean the PHB is icing on the cake, which the cake being the LCA's

You'll need LCA's way before a PHB on the street, even so you don't need a PHB on the street at all
 

Ironwarrior

Member
Jun 24, 2007
40
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Jun 30, 2007
#31
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #31
tomustang said:
Well alot of things mentioned in this thread are recommended, I mean the PHB is icing on the cake, which the cake being the LCA's

You'll need LCA's way before a PHB on the street, even so you don't need a PHB on the street at all
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct, ciphering through recommendations and doing research is an important part when you are tackling something new. I personally don't have much experience in suspensions, this is why I am here. From what I read about Lower Control Arms is that the primary benefit is that they help improve the ability of keeping your wheels planted to the ground and reducing wheel hop. My car is stock and again I didn't see this as important. I am not racing off the line so I should not be running into this problem of wheel hop. The panhard bar on the other hand from what I read prevents lateral movement and improves cornering. My lower control arms, stock as they are shouldn't be to bad since the car only has 6000 miles on it. I have been told that despite this the rubber can still deteriorate, but this was my logic anyway.. Again I have to draw the line at some point. I'm not saying that replacing the control arms and bushings is a bad thing, I'm just saying that I chose not to at this point.
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
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Jun 30, 2007
#32
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #32
Ironwarrior said:
You are absolutely correct, ciphering through recommendations and doing research is an important part when you are tackling something new. I personally don't have much experience in suspensions, this is why I am here. From what I read about Lower Control Arms is that the primary benefit is that they help improve the ability of keeping your wheels planted to the ground and reducing wheel hop. My car is stock and again I didn't see this as important. I am not racing off the line so I should not be running into this problem of wheel hop. The panhard bar on the other hand from what I read prevents lateral movement and improves cornering. My lower control arms, stock as they are shouldn't be to bad since the car only has 6000 miles on it. I have been told that despite this the rubber can still deteriorate, but this was my logic anyway.. Again I have to draw the line at some point. I'm not saying that replacing the control arms and bushings is a bad thing, I'm just saying that I chose not to at this point.
Click to expand...

So true, I mean you originally wanted to lower your car, and add some preventative maintenance, now it's gotten to the PHB LCA's and so forth

You can go with what spring you prefer, an adjustable bumpsteer kit, and a standard Tokico blue shock/strut package with the MM C/C Plates you've bought. The Tokico Blues will be slightly harsher than stock but not that noticable

I mean, you state this is just a street car, then you shouldn't get into buying road race suspension for just a drop, you know

Whether or not your stock rubber bushings are going to go bad will depend on how you drive and your climate, their aren't alot of people that have problems with the stock bushings on daily driven cars, but, since it's the street car and being safer is a key factor in driving, adding LCA's and a solid rear swaybar would help in an fast lane change if something happened, same thing goes for adding a PHB
 

Ironwarrior

Member
Jun 24, 2007
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Jun 30, 2007
#33
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #33
Here is another thought
If I replaced the LCA's I would also want to replace the UCA's at the same time.
After thinking about it , and just because it would be the best time to replace upper and lower control arms while replacing the rear springs I could just wait on the panhard bar and get these for about the same price... Look at these J&M's Then when some more dough rolls in, I could slap the panhard bar on and be done with this. Or, I could wait on both panhard and control arms and live with what I have. Why did you have to throw these LCA's into the equation?

One other thing... It seems to me I read somewhere that urethane bushing weren't recommended in a certain application for some reason. I'm trying to recall what that was all about.
 

Ironwarrior

Member
Jun 24, 2007
40
0
7
Jun 30, 2007
#34
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #34
No, I made up my mind... I am going to draw the line and just get ...

hr sport springs
mm cc plates
subframe connectors
bilstein hd shocks


I will then save my money so I can dial in my drop to a new set of wheels to close out the majority of the remaining gap so I can meet my target of 1/2 to 1 inch clearance.. That is the look I want. Then if I later feel my car needs additional tweaking I will consider adding the control arms and panhard bar. I'm off to have a beer now and wait for my parts to arrive
 

tomustang

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Jun 30, 2007
#35
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #35
Ironwarrior said:
Why did you have to throw these LCA's into the equation?
Click to expand...
They're a must for any suspension setup



Ironwarrior said:
One other thing... It seems to me I read somewhere that urethane bushing weren't recommended in a certain application for some reason. I'm trying to recall what that was all about.
Click to expand...

It's the UCA's

Well you can read this for the short version http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=690493
 

the98stang

Active Member
Aug 12, 2005
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47
Clovis, CA
Jul 1, 2007
#36
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #36
If I may interrupt, what shock/strut would be good for daily driving, along with the occasional drag race on the strip? I will be buying the Eibach Prokit to lower the car a little. I looked at the springs rates, and they appear to have the softest front spring rate to help with weight transfer to the rear.
 

topless98gt

Adhesive Feces
Mar 31, 2005
182
0
17
Arlington, TX
Jul 1, 2007
#37
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #37
Bilstein w/ H&Rs Supersports
 

EPIK

Member
Jul 3, 2004
796
1
16
LEFT COAST
Jul 1, 2007
#38
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #38
topless98gt said:
Bilstein w/ H&Rs Supersports
Click to expand...

Best choice imo, besides coilovers....
 

the98stang

Active Member
Aug 12, 2005
2,408
0
47
Clovis, CA
Jul 1, 2007
#39
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #39
topless98gt said:
Bilstein w/ H&Rs Supersports
Click to expand...

The H&R SS's are way to stiff in the front for drag racing. They have a rating of 700-760, and the Eibach's are 425-530, which is closer to the stock spring rating of 450. Now if you want better cornering, the SS's would probably be the better choice.

My question is, are the bilstein's adjustable?
 
B

big T

New Member
Feb 25, 2004
265
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0
Hawaii, oahu
Jul 1, 2007
#40
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #40
cooper58d2002 said:
I have the Steeda Sport Springs with urethane isolators they dropped the car approx 1 1/4 and Tokico D-spec shocks. Ride quality is excellent and with the d-specs the adjustability range is great as i can make the car ride as stiff as a go-cart or smooth as a caddy.
Click to expand...

I will agree that the steeda sports are the most comfortable riding lowering springs that Ive ever put into a mustang. The handle great and still have enuf clearence for LT headers. H&R ss's and progress technology springs ride good as well, but a better strut/shock combo is a must with these. I say go with the SS's as they are some of the best springs out there and will drop your car about 1.75"-front/1.6"-rear for a slammed look.
 
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