Need some tips and pointers on new fuel lines and rails!

[Kdubslugga]

Im lean at 5500 rpm and im running 50lb injectors with a 255 lph and an Anderson Big Pump inline pump. Im wanting to rev appx. 6300-6500. I have stock Lines and Rails. Im confused on what size lines to get. Ive been doing some research and it seems like most people recommend -10 An for boosted application with more than 500 rwhp. I guess what im confused about is how the new lines connect to the stock fuel pump assembly do they make adapters for that? Also do i need a y block thing for my fuel rails?

 

[95Vert383AOD]

First thing youll notice when you stare at an an10 line and a 255lph pump is that the an10 is a 1/2 line (way bigger than the outlet on a 255 pump). I'm running this setup on my car. But now im also using an out of tank aeromotive a1000 pump. which has an10 inlet and outlet.

If you need to properly feed 50lb injectors at the rpms specified at 500+ hp boosted....Well then you should be looking at overhauling the entire fuel system.

I run a sumped an10 to a y block splitting to (2) an8 lines to each rail. Each rail then connects to the 3 port regulator (still using an8) then i use an6 for a return.

Before i did it this way my fuel pressure would drop when i revved the engine. Now my pressure stays steady at 40 and increases a couple pounds when revved. I'm using 36's on a N/A 383 stroker. So i know 50lb injectors on a boosted motor is going to be a thirsty setup.

A sumped (an) system will end up setting you back a couple of grand. I buy Earls fittings...cost a lil less.

 

[Kdubslugga]

Good write up man, Do you think i can use the Aeromotive Kit 17105, which costs 1600?? Id hate to spend 2500 on the stealth kit when im so close to my goal!!

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Well save a few bucks and make your own sump fuel tank. Drill about 4-6 2" holes and weld a sump box over it. Aeromotive charges over $500 for their tank. So $40 for a sump box with An fittings already welded on it is a deal. If you cant weld it take it too a radiator shop like i did. Heres a link...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979...rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_634wt_1165


Also if you look on aeromotives site on the text book way to set their 5.0 system they tell you to use a pre and post pump fuel filter. You WILL need a pump controller if you are using the car on the street. Aeromotive pumps tend to burn up when run on full speed for long periods of time.

Hard parts you need

Tank/sump (make your own) $150

a1000 pump $350

Pre filter $110

Post filter $110

10an to (2) 8an (Y) splitter $75

Rails $200

3 Port Regulator $140 +$20 if you want the Gauge

$1155 roughly.

then get all your braided lines and fittings for another $350-400 (EARLS)

You're at the same $1500 but you will be getting a much more complete system.

Also you can find people selling Fittings/ Rails/ Braided line Etc. on Ebay and may even be able to save some cash getting some parts used. Just make sure you get the pump new.

Oops almost forgot Youre gonna still want to get that Aeromotive pump controller. $275 roughly...

OOOOR the Real Real Real cheap way....
Get a second 255LPH pump and strap it to the first pump and put a screen on both somehow. Then run a second factory sized line along the origonal factory fuel line.On the motor cut the factory fuel rail crossover tube. Put in a T fitting and connect the new fuel line there. You would have 2 pumps pumping to different sides of the rails and you could control the pressure with an aftermarket regulator (which you should have already) on the return side. Ideally you could have one 255lph pump per rail and have them regulated on the single return.

I'm long winded but hopefully that helped a lil. My first post to this site was trying to figure out an sizes and how to setup a sump fuel system.

Chris

 

[2000xp8]

I used an 8 up fed by two hp walbro external pumps and then a 6 back.
Pick up in stock location of the original pump (special pick up with no pump on it). Pick up to 10an hose, aeromotive filter, then to a Y block to the pair of pumps, then back into an 8.

No matter how you slice it it's at least 1200 bucks, and you need to either do the whole thing, or don't do anything at all.

Use this site to get some ideas.
Me personally i would not ever consider and aeromotive pump, they are horribly loud for no reason.
Home - Glenn's Performance

Don't be afraid to use aeroquip pushlock hose it saves a few bucks.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

I used an 8 up fed by two hp walbro external pumps and then a 6 back.
Pick up in stock location of the original pump (special pick up with no pump on it). Pick up to 10an hose, aeromotive filter, then to a Y block to the pair of pumps, then back into an 8.

No matter how you slice it it's at least 1200 bucks, and you need to either do the whole thing, or don't do anything at all.

Use this site to get some ideas.
Me personally i would not ever consider and aeromotive pump, they are horribly loud for no reason.
Home - Glenn's Performance

Don't be afraid to use aeroquip pushlock hose it saves a few bucks.

If you actually need an Aeromotive pump.....Then you shouldn't be able to hear it while the cars running. I can't hear mine running and i have a N/A 383 with a mild cam. Folks usually break out the A1000 when making over 500hp. But in all seriousness if you can make my 383 quiet enough to hear my pump without turning it into a dog, I would love to hear.


ADD: That Glenns Performance is a good link!!! Hey for cost and reliability purposes I think i might go back to the in tank setup again. Then i can sell my Aeromotive pump and controller for $450. I think ill give them a call myself.

Chris