need some valve adjustment help in the Renton area

[94gsl5.0]

hey all,

I am putting my motor back together (94 5.0) but am slightly confused on as to how I adjust my valve train as well as check for pushrod length. If anyone who has done this before and has some spare time to drop by and take a look, there is some free beer and pizza in it for ya.

I think i am following the procedure right but when we torque down on the pedestal nuts, i can't get any compression to come out the cylinder when cycling through... makes me think my pushrods are to long now and the valves are staying open (heads milled, but only ten thousandths). I wanted to get somones elses opinion before i go ordering more parts. Maybe i am missing something in the adjustment procedure.

 

[stock50LX]

Assuming these are stock heads, stock rockers, and stock pushrods .010 milling shouldn't create a problem. Do you have the plugs in ?

 

[94gsl5.0]

yes stock everything... I just found out that the stockers are not adjustable at all... And I tooka alook at how much of the rocker is contacting the head of the valve and it looks pretty good. So i am going to throw her together and see what happens.

Someone told me that its not compressing air right now cause the lifters have yet to pump up keeping the valves open.

Thanks

 

[ddonaca351]

...well if the lifters arent pumping up, then the valves are staying closed, not open, but same result in the end...(no air in/out)

Anyhow, did you soak the lifters in oil for a few hours? if not you should. Dont start them up dry, almost certain death.

If you dont want to pull things back appart, you can go get some "marvel mystery oil" at most good auto-parts places, squirt it down on the lifters (its thin and soaks in good) and repeat this a few times, that way you dont have to pull the heads back off.

Oh also prime the oil pump with a looong screwdriver / drill to get oil in all the galleys before you drop in the distributor, that will help too.

Anyhow...

To check pushrod length with everything together, look at where the tip of the rocker touches the valve stem, (I ass-u-me you have roller tip rockers) the roller should be just beyond the centerline of the stem, while the valve is on the seat. Then as the cam opens the valve, the roller should move to the centerline of the stem at mid-lift, and finnish just short (closer to the pushrod) of the centerline at full lift. If you are way out toward the far side of the stem, or way in toward the pushrod side, then the pushrods are too short, or long respectively.

If you dont have a solid lifter to use for this, you can take an old hydraulic lifter, and take it appart and put washers inside it up to the level of the cup, then use it to do set-up with.

Hope this helps.
Dave-

 

[stock50LX]

I agree with the above post. At this point, make an effort to insure that you get oil quickly to the lifters and rockers. Just pour some oil on each rocker (don't go crazy though) and onto to top of each lifter. Using the oil pump drive-shaft is critical. If you don't have one, go get one. You need to turn it with a drill until your guage registers oil pressure. And I am thinking more of your bearings than lifters with that statement.

As you tighten the rockers, move the tip that touches the pushrod up and down as you turn the bolt that holds the thing down. At the point you can no longer feel any play in the rocker tip's movement, you have zero lash. If you tighten another 1/4 to 3/4 turn to get the needed 25 fp, you do not need to shim. If you cannot get to zero lash or you need to tighten more than I specified, you need to shim or get longer pushrods. At least you'll know if you are in the ball park if the tightening goes as I specified.

Good luck, but get that oil pump drill shaft. Most auto parts stores with a machine shop will carry them. It is not expensive.

 

[94gsl5.0]

I have put together the block with the intake mani already on ( i didn't see your posts until after assembly). Can i just crank the motor without firing to prime the system? Thats how I prime other cars that i have built. I can turn off the injectors via stand alone.

Thanks for your replies. Very much appreciate it.

 

[stock50LX]

I have put together the block with the intake mani already on ( i didn't see your posts until after assembly). Can i just crank the motor without firing to prime the system? Thats how I prime other cars that i have built. I can turn off the injectors via stand alone.

Thanks for your replies. Very much appreciate it.

I would recommend doing it as specified. There are many benefits and the cost is a short delay and a few dollars.

Even using the rod and drill to get oil pressure, you are not going to get the rockers and lifters oiled. Given the situation, just pour some oil through the pushrod hole, it will get on top of the lifter. Or you could squirt some, if you have an old fashioned oil can.

After rereading your original post, what basis are you using to conclude you are getting no compression?

 

[94gsl5.0]

Well the car fired up so our method for looking for compression must have been wrong, lol.

It now leaks combustion from ALL cylinders into the coolant somehow. The intial problem was only on 3 and 4. We used head studs, SCE head gasket, and the heads were decked. Everything was torqued to spec and in order (75 ft/lbs)... I have replaced head gaskets on other types of cars before and never had a problem.

What could be the problem. Could the block itself be warped and when the heads were decked they no longer match the block? Not enough thread sealer on the head studs? The car is back down to a shortblock as of last night and i am going to try and give it one more go... any advice would be appreciated...

 

[WaterPog]

I usually fire the motor the first time dry, no coolant, and let it get a little heat into it. Sometimes a couple times. I find that helps with gasket sealing.

Honestly though my advice is that you may be over your head and should get some help from a Pro.

 

[stock50LX]

Well the car fired up so our method for looking for compression must have been wrong, lol.

It now leaks combustion from ALL cylinders into the coolant somehow. The intial problem was only on 3 and 4. We used head studs, SCE head gasket, and the heads were decked. Everything was torqued to spec and in order (75 ft/lbs)... I have replaced head gaskets on other types of cars before and never had a problem.

What could be the problem. Could the block itself be warped and when the heads were decked they no longer match the block? Not enough thread sealer on the head studs? The car is back down to a shortblock as of last night and i am going to try and give it one more go... any advice would be appreciated...

My first reaction is that the head gaskets could be reversed. There is a front and a back. Did you clean the block well? Could there be something interfering with the seal between the head and block?

 

[TurboSnake95]

Honestly though my advice is that you may be over your head and should get some help from a Pro.

Will

 

[94gsl5.0]

Stock50LX, i I have the front stamp twords the front of the motor for both head gaskets. I have subsequently had the gaskets read by the pro's and am going to try again. I may not have cycled the arp head studs correctly.

Still learning about the small block ford, but isn't that what this is all about?