Need the Pro's

Still have problems. I have a crap cold idle. I start the car and have to fluxuate the throttle for about 15 sec to keep the car running. Then it fluxuates for a couple min, and I have to watch it because it will usually stall. If I shut it off after the first 15 sec and restart it it will do a little better but not much. I thought mabey it was an aggressive cam, but I dont think so. I have fixed numerous vacumme leaks, new act sensor, new tune with plugs, wires, cap, rotor, 15 deg base timing (have tried everything from 8-18) new fuel filter, cleaned t-body, mass air and IAC. I also have a Steeda IAC plate (same wheather its on the car or not) When at operating temp the car idles fine, just a little lumpy, but it is a Lunati Voodoo cam (not sure of specs) Idle is @750-800 rpm when warm. Just receintly it started staying at 1100-1200 rpm when I come to a stop and after 2-3 sec drops back to 800. The codes are key on: 3-3 egr not opening, 4-1 something with O2, 9-1 which is shift solinoid, but the car is a stick. Coder when running: 2-1 ECT out of test range (is it bad?), 3-3 same EGR code, 9-4 Secondary air injection inop , 4-4 Secondary air system inop. (again, what is that). Hope someone can help.

EGR is NOT connected, and I do not have a smog pump, so I guess disregard thoes codes. Does 41 mean my passenger side O2 is bad, or disconected, and doesent 91 mean no shift solinoid when you get that code with the key on but engine off? I dont get that code when I test it with the engine running. Only 21,94,44, and 33 flash when the engine is running.

And how would I check the ECT? They are like $20 so should I just go buy one?

OK testing it at running temp cleared the ECT code, and I installed the resistors to clear 9-4 and 4-4. I followed all the instructions in the surging idle sticky, set idle to 600, cleaned the mas air, cleaned the 10-pin, cleaned the IAC, I have no vaccuume leaks and I still have a crap cols start and a temperary high idle when I come to a stop. So now what?

jrichker said:

Faulty IAC. A car that immediately dies when first cranked up usually has a bad IAC.

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Thanks buddy After replacing everything else I bought a new IAC today (only $56 new @ Autozone) and works like a champ! Still need to let it warm up for a couple min or it will try to die backing out of the garage. Also something to think about adding to the surging idle sticky, my idle staying a few hundred RPM high for a few seconds when I came to a stop was caused by too much fuel pressure. Just got my gauge and it was set at 49 psi. I brought it down to 41, and now no more hanging idle