Need tips installing Intake

[Jettin169]

I installed my rebuilt 5.0 in my SN95 two weeks ago and have replaced my intake gaskets twice now. Each time, it gets a little bit better but I'm still pushing white smoke out my pipes. The first time I had about a gallon of coolant in my oil just by running it for the first time in only 5 min. The second time, I didn't get any coolant in the oil... in fact, it seemed I was only smoking on the pass. side. I've put about 200 miles on it since the 2nd change and it just seems to be getting worse (more white smoke) about half a gallon coolant lose it those 200 miles.

The second Time I replaced the gaskets, I used black RVT sealant on all the water jacket ports on both sides of the gasket and used 4 cut studs to line up the intake while dropping it down. I'm going to change the dang gaskets again today , what tips can anyone give me to ensure that I won't have anymore leaks in my intake Has anyone ever tried doubleing up on gaskets? Is it something I might try?

 

[Mopar1]

Are you sure it's an intake gasket and not a head gasket? Or something else? I dont use RTV around the water jackets. Are you re-torquing the manifold? Is the manifold warped? Are you cleaning the gasket surfaces compltely?

 

[Jettin169]

I'm 99.9% sure it's not the heads. The Longblock and intake were not original with eachother so that my be part of the issue. The first time, I didn't have the old gasket removed completely. I cleaned those things down to the metal base. I'm certain that the intake isn't warped as it was fine before I had to replace the engine. The engine came out of an F150 (Blocks are identical) and rebuilt it to a 306 along with the heads (milled and planed). For some reason, I'm not making a good seal on the damn intake. ANy ideas?

 

[Mopar1]

How much were the heads milled? If they were milled a lot did the intake side of the head get milled to match?

Could it be the timing cover?

A cracked head? Is the intake cracked on a water port?

Are you torquing to sequence?

What gaskets? Are they being put on correctly?

Are you retorquing after the first heat up/ cool down? I had to do this twice.

Like I said I dont use rtv around the water ports. I know other people do. I have only done this when using steel intake gaskets on small block mopars ages ago. Are you using too much? I use a light coat of gasket sealant on the head side, then place the intake gasket on the head. I would not recommend doubling the intake gaskets.

 

[Jettin169]

The heads were milled by the builder who I bought the block from. I don't know how much but the intake was from my original engine and has not been touched. I wouldn't think it's the timing cover (water pump plate) How would that put water in my combustion chambers? A cracked head is a possibility, but again, those were fine too when last running before rebuild. I'm torquing per Ford specs as well as its odd sequence pattern. Gaskets are Felpro (rubber end channels and the steel edged intake). I HAVE NOT retorqued since first starting the car after install. I'll give it a shot and hope for the best, if not, it's all coming off and I'm trying it again

 

[Mopar1]

it seemed I was only smoking on the pass. side. I've put about 200 miles on it since the 2nd change and it just seems to be getting worse (more white smoke) about half a gallon coolant lose it those 200 miles.

Are you sure it's not your head gasket?

 

[Jettin169]

The gaskets are new... Doesn't exempt it as being the problem though... Here's what happened the second time I chaged the gaskets. Pass. side exhaust was pouring white smoke for abot 15 min. After that it quite... I think it was burning left over water that was sitting in the exhaust. For the rest of the day (about 35 miles or so) I didn't get much of any type of smoke from the pipes but the next day it slowly came back. It looks like a car thats warming up on a cold morning. The car comes nowhere near hot, in fact, it barley hit's the N in normal on the guage. Plus, the car has no power loss, thats why I decided more towards the intake

 

[jrichker]

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.