Need to adjust Idle on FRPP 70mm T/B!!! (ASAP)

Shiroelex · Mar 12, 2006

That yellow circle is just vaccum lines. If you had to swap the TPS over, I bet the flat blade on the end of the throttle shaft that goes into the TPS is one rotation off. I put a TPS on a long time ago, and had to twist the TPS a bit to get it on, and when I had it all bolted up, it was actually holding the throttole open a very small ammount. Take a look in your throttle body, and see if the butterfly is being held open at all. If not, then loosen the screws on the TPS, and turn it ever so slightly until you hear the idle drop to a good level. If the idle never drops, and the resistances on the TPS all show good, then I would start spraying carb cleaner around while the engine is running (spray where any gasket is, or vaccum connection) and listen for RPM changes. Good luck!

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

Well i just got back inside....again...

I adjusted the TPS with while watching the my Voltmeter. I could NOT, and i mean NOT get it to go below 1.06 volts. and my wOT was like 4.56volts (or there abouts). My car is currently at 1.06v for my TPS. Couldn't get it to go lower.... what now? Sign of a bad TPS?

I took it off to inspect the inside and i noticed the black TPS connector where the two teeth that are supposed to fit into the T/B peg are scratched up a bit. How "mint condition" is this thing supposed to stay?

I thought about boring out the black TPS connector holes where the screws go through, to give myself some more play with the TPS but i didn't want to do anything just yet.

what should i do????

How much is a new TPS??

helty · Mar 12, 2006

Holley makes new TB's that come with new TPSs set to factory settings. Just an idea.

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

Nah im BROKE, i really can't spend any money, especially not on a new Throttle Body. Not unless the T/B is the actual problem, then i could put one on my CC i guess

But i'd like to get this fixed....not just throw new parts at it

Stang|ess · Mar 12, 2006

You drill the holes to make them slots. That should give you more adjustability.

Could you take a picture of which 2 wires youre probing? I'm following the Accufab write up:

Originally posted by dkmnx
From the accufab web site:The TPS is connected to the main wire harness with three separate, color coded wires:

1.

Gray & Red
2.

Gray & White
3.

Brown & White

The gray & red wire is the ground wire (could also be a black wire).

The gray & white wire provides the voltage information to the ECM (could also be a green wire).

The brown & white wire provides a 5-volt reference signal WITH THE KEY ON (could also be an orange wire).

If you have any problems identifying the different colors or if the wires are different colors from those described, check inside the plastic quick disconnect plug. The plug connection tangs should have an “A”, “B”, and “C” next to each tang.

A = gray & red wire

B = gray & white wire

C = brown & white wire

Because of the different suppliers of TPS’s, and the potential for different wire colors, you may need to “poke around” on the wires in order to determine the positive and negative leads. An easy way to take voltage readings is to stick a safety pin through the individual wires, and then make contact with your Volt Meter probes to the safety pins.

To check voltage, THE IGNITION KEY NEEDS TO BE IN THE ON POSITION BUT THE ENGINE MUST NOT BE RUNNING. With the positive (+) lead from your voltmeter, pierce the gray & white wire. With the negative (-) lead from your voltmeter, pierce the gray and red wire. The voltmeter should read no less than .98 volts nor more than 1.0 volts. If the voltage is too high, loosen, but do not remove, the two screws holding the TPS to the throttle body, and rotate the unit counter-clockwise, until the voltage is correct. Rotating the unit clockwise will increase the corresponding voltage. When the voltage is correct, retighten the two screws. The only adjustment is the “slop” between the inside diameter of the holes and the outside diameter of the screws, so we are dealing with just a few degrees of rotation.

The Ford ECM’s are very unforgiving when it comes to ANY engine modifications from stock. The addition of an Accufab throttle body should not have any negative effect on idle speed, off-idle performance (tip-in) or the RPM returning to idle speed, within a second or two, when the throttle is closed.

If on the other hand, modifications to the stock engine include additional supercharger boost with the use of different supercharger pulleys (particularly noticeable on supercharged 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra’s) or adding a “re-programming” chip or add-on computer module, the standard TPS voltage readings and other drivability issues may be noticeable, and could include an overly fast idle and a resistance of the ECM to “allow” the throttle to close properly, resulting in a delay between removing your foot from the gas pedal and the engine returning to idle.

These are not throttle body problems. The throttle body is a mechanical device with only one moving part. As long as the throttle body slams shut when you close the throttle (key off, engine not running), the throttle body is functioning correctly. Any other problem is associated with the ECM and the feedback it is receiving, either due to the increased boost at idle (more air supply) or the add-on computer chip sending incorrect (or unknown) data to the ECM. If you follow this and still have the problem it could be a bad tps,swap one out with a friend if you can before buying a new one.Also check the spring that attaches to the throttle body,I know it doesnt have to do with the tps adjustment,but when I installed mine the idle would flucuate even though the tps was adjusted right.The spring was to weak to pull the throttle arm all the way in at times.Changed the spring problem solved good luck.

And those 2 combination of wires gives me 0 volts (in the 20V display).

If you have hanging RPMs, this is supposed to help.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-0...33553QQitemZ8045894677QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

Ok a few questions. (1st off yes i do have hanging RPMS along with my high idle)

1) Can i remove the gold cylinders that the TPS screws slide into on the TPS to allow more room to move the TPS around? Or is that a no no...

2) IF i buy this plate, from e-bay, i just slap it on and thats it, it will fix my problems??

3) I thought this plate was for the Mach 1s...this is designed for the GTs too that have hanging RPM problems?

Here is a pic of the wires i was probing (sorry they are hard to see):

View attachment 483988

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

SVT Tech.....where are you...come out come out

Kilgore Trout · Mar 12, 2006

Dude, I see the problem in those pics you posted.! You have removed the embossed pony badge from the top of your intake. Now the Mustang Gods are punishing you for that transgression

Stang|ess · Mar 12, 2006

SUpposedly the hanging RPMs will solve themselves after a week of driving, but for some, it didn't solve the problem. The IAC plate does the same thing that the copper ring does, just doesnt seem as ghetto.

So I probe the ground and the TPS power wires?

How's the vacuum line on the back of the plenum. Some people forget to plug that one back in.

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

Stang|ess said:
SUpposedly the hanging RPMs will solve themselves after a week of driving, but for some, it didn't solve the problem. The IAC plate does the same thing that the copper ring does, just doesnt seem as ghetto.

So I probe the ground and the TPS power wires?

How's the vacuum line on the back of the plenum. Some people forget to plug that one back in.

What are you doing this T/B mod yourself soon? Yeah you probe the TPS ground and TPS source/power wires. It will show you a low voltage reading of around 1volt. U want it to be like .99v, but mine is as 1.06 at the moment. And when u probe the TPS wires, make sure the key is in and to the ON position...but make sure the enine is still off.

And if you look in my page 1 pics more closely, you'll see i did make sure that back vacuum line is back in. thanks for the suggestion anyway.

And I took the Running Horse plate off because it was all messed up. This was a second plenum that i had, and when i had it sitting on a shelf it managed to get banged around. So i took it down, ported it out, polished it up, and took the scratched pony off. I'm going to replace it with a chrome/brushed alluminum plate i have that i will put some vinyl lettering on. Haven't decided what it will say yet.

Kilgore Trout · Mar 12, 2006

UDTBadkarma said:
I'm going to replace it with a chrome/brushed alluminum plate i have that i will put some vinyl lettering on. Haven't decided what it will say yet.

That sounds acceptable. If I were you I would sacrifice a couple ricers to the Mustang Gods as well. After that I am sure your idle will be rock solid

Mustang Gods

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

Ok and im back AGAIN from the garage. Ok this time i ported the hell out of the TPS screw housing so the TPS screws could move around a little. I brought my TPS idle voltage from 1.06volts down to 1.04 volts. A Big improvement even though it doesn't sound like much...but i can NOT get it to .99volts!!!!!

Has anyone had the same problem as me, and still had their idle return to normal?? I'm impatient and really dont want to wait a week or a month for my idle to go back...

but anyway, im moving on now...next project: My hanging RPMS....

I am doing the Mach 1 IAC spacer "mod" as we speak. I have an extra aluminum sign plate 2x4" that i'm going to make into an IAC spacer mod. Only problem is that the mod calls for a 9/32" (9mm) hole...but i only have: 1/4" 15/64" 7/32" and smaller drill bits....

Suggestions? LOL

Stang|ess · Mar 12, 2006

Try waiting for a week. It should fix itself. Hmm Im going to be posting a vid of my exhaust in talk soon. At the end, you can hear the hanging rpms

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

Ok so i get back inside from the garage....AGAIN!!!! Its 9pm now and im still workin on the stang in the dark ass garage LOL. Anyhow. Here is what i just did.

Adjusted the TPS to 1.04v (could NOT get it any lower), i then used a piece of thick aluminum (probably 2x as thick as a soda can) + the original IAC gasket, and put a 1/4" hole threw the aluminum. I then bored it out a tiny bit larger to try and make it 9/32" size. I then installed it on the IAC and hooked everything back up.

The RPMS idled high again....*sigh*
Then i revved it and the RPMS came down fast. I was like YES!!!!! But then i revved it again and they still hung up, and then came down a little faster than they used to before the IAC hole mod and then it *burped* some exhaust out as it came down to a high idle again at 1500.

I ran the A/C and the heat on high blast for a min or two and the idle bounced around and went down to 1200, and when shut off, it jumped to 1500 again.

So i guess the bottom line is i need to drive the car around a bit for a week while the car re-learns everything...

Why didn't the IAC mod work? Maybe i should buy the real thing instead of my customized one???

SilverGTV8 · Mar 12, 2006

The IAC mod did mork. It is doing exactly what it is suppose to. It only causes the car to drop to idle faster.

When you unplug the IAC line the car should idle really low almost to the point of stalling. If it does then the throttle is closed all the way and the TB is fine.

I really think the problem lies with your TPS.

Did you reuse your old one?

Did it come with one?

Did you drop it?

The TPS is a potentiameter and can be kind of delicate.

I guess one thing to try is to pull it off the TB and check the voltage that way. If it is below 1.0 then it has something to do with the way it is interacting with the TB blade.

If it doesn't go below 1.0 even when rotating it then the problem is with the TPS.

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

SilverGTV8 said:
The IAC mod did mork. It is doing exactly what it is suppose to. It only causes the car to drop to idle faster.

When you unplug the IAC line the car should idle really low almost to the point of stalling. If it does then the throttle is closed all the way and the TB is fine.

I really think the problem lies with your TPS.

Did you reuse your old one?

Did it come with one?

Did you drop it?

The TPS is a potentiameter and can be kind of delicate.

I guess one thing to try is to pull it off the TB and check the voltage that way. If it is below 1.0 then it has something to do with the way it is interacting with the TB blade.

If it doesn't go below 1.0 even when rotating it then the problem is with the TPS.

View attachment 483962
This is a pic of the TPS once i took it off the car. It looks like the inside is messed up a little. I also just bored the hell out of those screw holes (not yet shown in this pic) to get the tps throttle voltage down from 1.06v to 1.04v....FYI i reused the stock TPS

Should i get a new tps?
How much are they...
Think i can get a new tps down to .99v??

SilverGTV8 · Mar 12, 2006

Did you check the TPS for voltage when it wasn't hooked up to the throttle body?

If so what was the voltage?

If not go and do it and the may tell us something.

I bought a new one from Ford when I did my change because I didn't want to mess with the factory ones because they can be a bitch to remove.

BlackenedSVT · Mar 12, 2006

No i never checked the voltage while it was unhooked...although you wont have any voltage if it is unhooked. did you mean check the resistance/ohm reading?? Or did u want me to have the TPS hooked up to the harness but not the T/B and check the voltage then?

Also, how much is a new TPS? Do you think i could get a .99v reading with a new TPS?

Shiroelex · Mar 12, 2006

A TPS is $32 at Autozone, and you can return it if it doesn't cure the problem, as long as you have the receipt. I'm thinking your problem is something else, though. Are you sure all of your gaskets are sealed good? Like that 'reusable' one that goes between the upper and lower? Also, is the inside bored out too big, to where the throttle blade doesn't seal the hole completely anymore? I've seen where the bore was too big, and there was a small gap at the top and bottom of where the throttle blade shuts. Take a peek inside; that might be the problem. Oh, also, if they bored too big, or some metal shavings went somewhere they weren't supposed to; that might cause a problem.

SilverGTV8 · Mar 13, 2006

You can buy a new on eif you want, but you coul dbe wasting your money.

Hook the TPS to your harness, but don't install it on the TB. Turn the key on and check the voltage. If you can get .99 that way you can enlarge the holes on the TPS to help it get to .99, and check to make sure the TB is fully closed.

If you can't then you need a new TPS.

Need to adjust Idle on FRPP 70mm T/B!!! (ASAP)

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