- Mar 9, 2010
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need to replace my rear axle seals.....
- Thread starter mattlee04gt
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trinity_gt
10 Year Member
It's easy to replace the seals. It's work to get to them. Something along the lines of:
- Jack the back of the car up and put it on stands
- Remove the road wheels
- Unbolt the brake calipers and brackets and hold them up out of the way. Don't disconnect the hydraulics.
- Remove the diff cover and drain the fluid into a suitable container
- Remove the bolt retaining the spider gear pin in the diff and extract the pin
- Push the axle inward and remove the C-clip
- Pull the axle gently out of the housing
- Pry the old seal out
- (Inspect the surface on the axle where the bearing runs and inspect the bearing in the housing. If you've noticed noise in the back or see wear, now's the time to replace the bearings. You'll need a slide-hammer for this)
- Tap the new seal in place and lube the seal with a bit of diff fluid
- Re-assemble.
- Use a bead of silicone sealant to form a new gasket for the diff cover
- Re-fill the diff with new 75W140 synthetic gear oil and a bottle of friction modifier
- Dispose of the old fluid at a recycling centre
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
+1 on above. Great post!
Axle seals are not all that hard.
Pinion seals are a different story. Not for the beginner.
Be sure to check/clean the Axle vent while there. If the cap style, clean around the area. If the inverted tube, make sure it is open.
Good luck.
Axle seals are not all that hard.
Pinion seals are a different story. Not for the beginner.
Be sure to check/clean the Axle vent while there. If the cap style, clean around the area. If the inverted tube, make sure it is open.
Good luck.
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
Excellent point. In fact, check this first. If the vent is blocked it may allow pressure to build inside the axle and a leak at the seals. If it's blocked for some reason (road crud, dirt, mud etc), unblocking it may stop the leak.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
If this is your only vehicle I wouldn't attempt. As a rule of thumb for me I would change the bearings and seals at the same time. Might be worth taking to a AES certified mechanic just so you know the job is done by a assumingly competant mechanic.
I hope the axle seal hasn't leaked any rear fluid on your brake pads and rotors, if so, your gonna need new rotors and pads.
I hope the axle seal hasn't leaked any rear fluid on your brake pads and rotors, if so, your gonna need new rotors and pads.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Just to make sure we are talking about JUST axle seals on a straight axle car (not IRS).
Not wanting to start a flame or disrespect but I done a few in my drive way. Ok, I do have a seal puller. But if you are careful, a junk screw driver works.
For a seal driver, a block of wood is the weapon of choice.
I completely agree that often it is better practice to change the axle bearings at the same time. True a specialized slide hammer is needed (which can be rented). There have been times I thought my hand would fall off before the blasted bearings came out.
Now it's true. I do have a cheap Harborfreight bearing/seal driver, but a socket will work. Let's not forget that a seal driver is a tool that can be rented.
Personally, I use a torque wrench as well. However, I remember being flamed by some of the pros as it being over kill.
+100 regarding working on your DD. Can't say it enough. Do your home work. Understand the job. Have a plan. Have a backup plan. Give yourself plenty of time. Line up the supplies ahead of time. Take pictures.
Having a back up plan is just plain smart. An example of a back up plan could be as simple as using a friend's car if the job turns bad.
Having said all that, it is still up to each individual to decide DIY or professional. But isn't that why ppl post here?
You are correct: since you don't know what you are doing, you should leave it to the professionals.
However, I replaced the seals and bearings in my 88 mustang 10 years ago (2000). The only special tool was a bearing puller and I haven't touched the rear end since. Apparently, I did an ok job because it has lasted nearly 100k miles, 10 years and more than 100 passes at the track, many of which running faster than your cobra would if you could drive it.
Feel free to keep paying out your nose for basic repairs. Myself and many others here will continue to learn how to do the job correctly on our own threw the use of good service manuals, forums/friends and experience.
Interesting how saying I would not do the job equals me paying out the nose for repairs to a car I cannot drive bhuffy. How exactly did you arrive at that and what exactly do your ridiculous accusations have to do with the thread topic. Stop attacking my opinion and express your own instead of always whining at me like a little child.
- Mar 9, 2010
- 31
- 0
- 6
I just get tired of reading your excessively strong opinion on subjects which it really wasn't useful, and infact may have been spreading miss information and fear. Your personal abilities and opinions do not apply to everyone and you should not act as if it should. Qualify your statements such that they can be applied to the original poster. He is already planning to do the work and we already discussed specialty tools required. Your statement does not help anyone and spreads missinformation that the job shouldn't actaully be attempted by home mechanics - When in fact it can easily be tackled with proper planning, proper tools and proper instruction.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Thanks for the name calling, but I'm not interested in that game. I only wish to disagree with you on a technical level with some pokes mixed in to keep it interesting 
.
See you in the next thread where you make blanket statements like 'nitrous is cheating' or 'DOT approved drag radials should never be driven on'. I'll be there to qualify with my opinion of when it might just be ok when done responsibly.
.See you in the next thread where you make blanket statements like 'nitrous is cheating' or 'DOT approved drag radials should never be driven on'. I'll be there to qualify with my opinion of when it might just be ok when done responsibly.
Also in keeping in spirit of the tech section it is not helpful to tell someone to not do the job they are asking how hard it will be to do. It might be over the OPs head, but just flat out saying its too hard and requires special tools shows arrogance on your part.
Truth be told a seal puller isnt really a special tool. Actually a slide hammer isnt either. A special tool would be something like my mid 90s Honda Accord front brake rotor puller, or my ARP CNC machined ring compressors that I have in multiple sizes.
Numerous posts of yours in tech sections are like this or preach outdated or plain incorrect info.
You are smart and know a lot, but crushing the hopes of someone who wants to work on their car is not what this or any car forum is about. The best way to learn a job like this is to try it for yourself with some help from a more experienced person. Some people just need to try it for themselves.
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