Never to old to learn...

[DMAN302]

I learned WAY too much today about my little mustang, and as usual a minor project turned it's self into a MAJOR experience. I began the install of my Blue oval industries control arms this morning..sure not the best, but more than adequate for a car that sees the track maybe once a yr and no spirited cornering (not my thing). Anyways enough justifying...doing this job by it self I damn difficult!! Getting the rear end to line with bolt holes was a pain!! seriously a two person job...if only for encouragement. Anyways I was also fortunate enough to get to learn how to replace the Axle to upper bushings..HUGE pain in the A$$. Getting anles on the bolts and nuts to torque them...again pain in the ass by yourself. Ok pretty much done bitching now, I just needed to vent after 9 hours of learn as you go with the only response so far being from my wife. Her response was.."you've been out here all day..you look like hell, the garage is a mess, there's grease on the dogs head, and the car looks EXACTLY the same." Sure all of this was true..but I could have used a few kind words as my mind and back had seen enough for one day. Done bitching now..tomorrow I put in the shocks and check out my handy work!. As for fit..the Blue oval arms are nice lookin pcs..the zerks are nice feature and took grease well, I have no issues with the quality, and the parts look SERIOUSLY more rigid and performance orientated than the little stockers. One thing I did notice was the sway bar did have to be mounted on the outsides of the control arms, rather than inside as with the stockers. With the new axle bushings, control arms in, fresh shocks (kyb's) in the back with a spankin new set of 275/40/17 G-force DR's on the back..I hope she takes the road with some authority.

 

[04sleeper]

Been there before as well, although I didn't have as much trouble and was done in only a few hours.

BTW the sway bar should go on the inside of the control arms. It seems tight and might take a foot to get it to flex a little, but it goes on the inside.

Good luck with the shocks tommorow.

 

[90mustangGT]

ahhh, but lesson learned, Grasshopper.

Did you do them one at a time? Disconnect the shocks, quads, and swaybar first? The 8.8 is heavy, isn't it?

 

[DMAN302]

Couldn't for the life of me get the sway bar on the inside..is there any real issue to it being secured on the outside of the arms??

 

[04sleeper]

Maybe not, I suppose as long as it is tight.

I had a heck of a time before trying to get it on and just pryed with my foot a little and it seemed to work.

 

[DMAN302]

It fits like a glove on the outside edges of the arm..and yeah it's tight..I just wonder if it's still going to work correctly if it's positioned like that.

 

[04sleeper]

I don't see why it would be any different as long as it's tight, and you say it is so it should be fine.

I say go for it.

 

[DMAN302]

Thanks sleeper..now I just have to replace that brake line, and learn how to bleed the brakes.

 

[Daggar]

You should have put a latex glove on the dog's head before allowing him to give you a helping hand... err....snout.

 

[Grn92LX]

My MM lca's were a pain too. One of the bolts was rusted to the sleeve and had to be sawzalled off. What a project the lca job was. I also did Rick 91GT's 'battle boxes' at the same time. I noticed no difference at all with the lca's.

I would pick up some speed bleeders so you can bleed the brakes easy by yourself. I'd flush the old stuff out and fill it all new. While bleeding dont let the MC run low!

 

[HISSIN50]

Derek, that is on par for how my projects go, so dont feel bad.

If you have a Miti vac, it makes brake bleeding a lot easier IMHO.

Good luck bud.

 

[txstang84]

...While bleeding dont let the MC run low!

very much agreed-if you don't have the mityvac, or the speed bleeders though, see if you can manage to coherse your wife into pumping the pedal while you open and close the bleed ports...just be careful of your word selection-lol. And like Grn said, don't let the MC run low-buy one of the gi-gondo bottles of high quality DOT 3 brake fluid (can DOT 4 mix with DOT 3?), and just go from the farthest brake to the nearest...since you're only working with the rears, right rear, then left rear...then after all's buttoned up, and no leaks are observed, take it for a test drive-after all, you've earned it! don't be surprised if the brakes need bled more than once...no matter how hard I try, I can never get them done right the first time, even after going through damn near two pints of fluid....oh well

good luck!

 

[Euphoric306]

i believe DOT 3 and 4 can mix, but 5 must stay by itself?

dont hold me to that though, as im not liable for any accidents caused by faulty brakes hehe

 

[DMAN302]

Do I need to bleed all the brakes or just the rears...I know I'm only replacing a rear line, but does that mean I only have to bleed the rear drums?.

 

[NosPony]

Yea, you only need to bleed the rears. Go pick up a vacuum pump to do the brakes. Saves headaches and makes it easy. Just my opinion though. Good luck.

 

[slow84lx]

I remember reading posts of people having trouble with the rear sway bar installation where they actually had it turned upside down and couldn't make it fit right until turning it over. Good luck.

 

[90mustangGT]

When it comes to bleeding the brakes I have found that the old fashon one person pumping the brake, the other opening the bleeder is the only way that always works. I bleed a lot of brakes. Not saying other meathods don't work, but I found the foot bleed way best. Bleed form the fittings furthest from the M/C. Speaking of the M/C, if you replaced the lines, you may need to bleed at the M/C first.

 

[darthcual]

You gotta love that damn learning curve!

 

[HISSIN50]

Jason, you guys dont have a power bleeder at work? Reverse bleeding would be what I would choose, if I could.

Derek, if you can, once you break loose a line connection, have a pretty air-tight plug/cap ready to cap the line that is left on the car. That helps maintain the vacuum in the system and helps keep air from bleeing upstream (gettin air out of rear lines is a PITA, IMHO - like Tex said).

Good luck bud.

 

[DMAN302]

Any additions you may have on replacing that particular line would be helpfull. Looking it over I plan on cutting the line mid way between the body and where it's mounted on the pumpkin. Next as JT you said I will attempt to cap the line off the body, and looking at the other end unbolt it (I hope it comes off cleanly). Question of the hour is...will the rubber line to body unbolt as well?? how is it connected? Throw me some tips if you get a chance, like everything I do with this car I like to have as much insight going in as I can. Thanks guys.
Derek.