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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

New 68 Fastback...Project....Maybe

  • Thread starter Thread starter Yobi1Kanobi
  • Start date Start date Oct 19, 2008

Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
Oct 19, 2008
#1
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #1
Hey guys I am a 94 guy. Recently I started working out a trade, my 94 for a 68 FB.

What kind of Condition did you guy start your project in and what are the common fixable body rust you guys find acceptable.

This car has been sitting for 22 years. It has been mostly inside but has spent some time outdoors in Florida.

I found rust in the trunk, rear quarter panel, and floor pans. I also has some surface rust like on the roof since the paint is shot.

I would like to see some pics of what you guys started with

I really would like a 68FB but don't want to get into hole.

Thank You guys:SNSign:
 
S

SNAKEPILOT

New Member
Jul 8, 2005
112
0
0
Oct 19, 2008
#2
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #2
You say project... so not a daily driver? Do you want something you can drive while you are restoring/restomodding? Most of these 40+ year old cars need a lot of work. The few that don't (besides being expensive) should probably be left alone.

My "project" went from paint job to "didn't know that was behind the fender" to full rotisserie pretty quickly. Think of all the rust and damage you don't see. It's not a hole, it's a hobby. What kind of budget are you talking about?

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Yobi1Kanobi

Member
Apr 9, 2003
559
0
16
Oct 19, 2008
#3
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #3
I do not plan on driving it at all I plan on stripping this down 100%.

Well I am also working on a 78 Vette. And that is going to be my driver.

I don't mind work just heard some people get into this and found unsalvageble damage.

I am going set set aside about 20,000.00 for the Restomod.
 
G

gr8one

Member
Jun 28, 2008
52
0
6
Ft. Meade Polk Co FL
Oct 19, 2008
#4
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #4
i live in polk co fl i have 3 67 fastback 2 are 2+2, and 1 factory GT with tack and a/c but its complete restoration.
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Oct 20, 2008
#5
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #5
I started with a pretty clean stocker and have somewhere around $21K in my car now, but a big chunk of that was the fiberglass stuff. I did everything myself, including paint and shopped for the best price with every single purchase. It can be done for $20k, but you need to be careful and don't get carried away with buying stuff. A freind had his coupe painted and by the time the bodyshop was done replacing panels (doors, rear quarters, hood, trunk, taillight panel) and painting, he had over $17K in paint and bodywork alone. The last time I talked to him, he had about $42K in the thing! It sounds rediculous, but it happens in a hurry once you start buying stuff or paying people to do it for you. I'll try to dig up a pic of what I started with later, but here's what it looks like now
 

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mustbereel

Member
May 6, 2005
318
0
17
Escondido, CA
Oct 20, 2008
#6
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #6
I had rust in nearly every panel except the roof. I probably could have paid more upfront for a rust free project and saved money in the long run. After a 3 year build I decided all future projects would start as rust free as possible. What ever rust you can see is just the tip of the iceburg.

 

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68converted

Member
Nov 19, 2003
772
0
16
Colorado
Oct 21, 2008
#7
  • Oct 21, 2008
  • #7
Mine was pretty good so I thought... 5 years later, and a boat load of work and now it's 98% finished.

Be careful. Look under the floor pans, inspect the entire lengths of the frame rails, under the dash, inside the cowls, and inside the trunk. Look at the seems. I should have brought a magnet as well, because one of the rear quarter panel drops was complete fiberglass and bondo.

The wheel wells also were coated with so much tar undercoating it completely hid the rusted out wheel wells.

But I love it now! And so does my son; it's his when he turns 16.
 
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