New guy here, rebuilding 302, many questions!

Oldschool 5.0

New Member
Nov 30, 2008
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Hey guys,

I bought an 82 mustang t-top hatch w/ a 4 speed SROD tranny and 302.

When I bought the car I was burning oil, so I drove it awhile and just added some as I went. Then the car overheated on me... so I yanked the engine out and tore it apart. I found out that it had been bored .060 over already w/ notched pistons, had a B303 ford racing cam, full roller motor w/ 1.6 Crane roller rockers, holley street dominator intake w/ a blown intake gasket, edelbrock 600 cfm carb w/ manual choke... timing chain and sprockets looked new, no signs of slap on the timing chain cover, and the heads were 68 mustang 302 heads.

I am going to rebuild it very soon. I was planning on a 331 stroker kit but since it is bored .060 over already that was shot all to hell. :nice:

I need to know what you guys think would be a lethal street/strip setup as far as the motor goes. I think I can re-use the block I have, the rebuild seems to have been done fairly recently and there isnt much wear on the cylinder walls. I want to get a forged crank, pistons, rods etc. but I am at a loss when it comes to heads, cam and intake combos. This is the first car I have attempted to rebuild and want to do it right and have a good streetable car that I can take to the strip occasionaly on the weekends and lay down some solid numbers.

Any info would be great. I have added an MSD 6AL ingintion w/ the blaster coil, new alternator and red-top battery, MSD distributor cap, 8mm wires and new plugs.

What kind of pistons should I use? Heads? Cam? Intake? Carb? Like I said I am really a big noob here so I could really use some help. Thanks everyone.
 
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IMO that block is done.
I suggest you have it sonic checked if you insist on using it.

A street setup will not like that at all, as ring seal and temp issues may arise.

Im curious what piston p/n, crank and rods are in that engine?????
 
Not sure and not able to look up the p/n right now because the car isnt here. Its in a family members garage! That is one thing I was worried about was the cylinder wall being too thin to run on the street.

Pretty sure the crank was stock. The pistons were black when I pulled the heads. All I can tell right now is they are .060 over pistons and I can make out what looks like L2462 on my camera phone. Doubt that helps much.
 
If you end up running that block(I personally won't run anything over .040 over wont touch .060) you do not need a forged crank, a cast crank will suit you just fine, the block will brake well before the crank.:nice: So don't waste money where it isn't needed. I would look into a junkyard block or something, just check the bore on it. The money you save by not buying a forged crank will get you a decent block.
 
If you end up running that block(I personally won't run anything over .040 over wont touch .060) you do not need a forged crank, a cast crank will suit you just fine, the block will brake well before the crank.:nice: So don't waste money where it isn't needed. I would look into a junkyard block or something, just check the bore on it. The money you save by not buying a forged crank will get you a decent block.

I'm interested in the rotating assembly as I find it unusual for a 4.060" piston with stock rods and crank???
I've heard of 351 .060" over pistons, but the compression height would need to be worked I would think/assume.
 
well I think the crank is stock. I still need to make it up there to look for a part number. I dont know yet about the rods, will check those too.

I think I am about 98% positive I am going to go ahead and try to find a 351W for it.
 
Heck, that block is done at 60 over. I know that not everyone has a large selection of junk yards in their area but here in Jax I know of 1 yard that has 2 Mark 7's with untouched forged piston 5.0 H.0 motors ripe for the taking not to mention Craigs List's as an option. If I were you and wanted to go stroker I would get a seasoned forged piston 302 short block and build that they way you want it.
 
well I think the crank is stock. I still need to make it up there to look for a part number. I dont know yet about the rods, will check those too.

I think I am about 98% positive I am going to go ahead and try to find a 351W for it.

Why do a Windsor? You can make 425 N/A no problem with a 306. You're gonna need a new transmission whatever you do and a T5 works beautifully with a big headed 306.