New guy on the block....

[juiced90Hatch]

Whats up guys im new over here but on many other forums...Couldnt find a newbie section so figured someone would point me in the direction or just welcome me here....Im new to the mustang world but been around cars all my life..i have a 06 srt8 jeep with nitrous and bolt ons went 11.91@114mph on 100 shot with a 1.8 60ft and a 00 dakota rt that i daily drive i had a 06 evo that was a full bolt on car with meth injection it went 11.81@119mph with a 2.0 60ft. Me and a few of my good friends do all of our own work ourselfs mostly. I just recently bought a house with a 24x30ft garage with 12 ft ceilings soo a lift is on the way! Anyway thats a little about me now for the mustang...........

Im picking the car up tomarrow or friday not sure when yet but its a 1990 GT hatch with 130k on it. My buddy started to make this his project car got new fenders, doors, bumpers, and a new hatch for the car but never put them on. So im getting all them with the car, He started it out as a turbo car bought a turbo kit for it and started piping it all up to the stock 302 and put a c4 behind it. So Im getting the car with the motor full interior and the extra parts for $500 bucks. The car has been sitting for a while and he just wants it gone now soo im the culpret...Im gonna start with the car and do it all the best i can i wanna try to get the car to go low 11s high 10s with nitrous and the 302 i hope this is possible and still maintain it to be street able..Let me know what you guys think about this project and see if you cant point me in the right direction to get this car up to par and running good! Thanks guys i look forward to learning and listening to all of you!

 

[90lxcoupe]

Welcome, im jealous of your garage... Why not just keep going with the turbo setup? If you do it right you could go 10's on a stock longblock. There was a guy on corral going high 6's in the eight on a stock tune and stock longblock. The car worked really well

 

[1989DropTop]

welcome aboard

 

[juiced90Hatch]

He sold all the turbo parts and its just a bare motor now...I went and got the car last night its gonna be a while before it sees any track days hahahaa hoping next season at least..

 

[StreetsideStig]

Nice price! You should start a build thread. It will keep you motivated.

 

[jrichker]

Welcome to Stangnet...

Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
with excellence!

EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $25-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.

Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.

Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul.
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.

Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.

Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.

 

[juiced90Hatch]

Thanks guys i will start a build thread as i get started with it...