New guy question

Hey my name is Brandon. I'm new to the mustang world but not to cars or how to work on them by any means. I'm thinking of buying a friend of mine's 94 GT as my daily so my SS can sit. Here's my question him and another guy rebuilt his motor and he changed the cam and went with a E303 cam with stock heads just had them cleaned and fresh valve job new valves seals seats etc, BBK shorties, stock intake, 75mm TB and 80mm maf. He said he's not for sure what is the problem other than some people are saying he needs longer pushrods over stock. Whats length is stock and what length is needed for a E303 cam????
Thanks for the help in advance.
Brandon
 
With stock heads and intake, the e-303 cam is probably going to do more harm than good. The only way to accuratly find out what length pushrods you need is to pull the valve covers and measure with an adjustable pushrod.....oh, and welcome to the board
 
When you say it's going to do more harm than good are you saying it's to big and will give me PTV issues or just that I wont do much good with stock heads and intake??? Cause if it's to big then I will pull it out when I get the car and start over. Thanks for the replies and keep them coming.
Brandon
 
Stock heads=stock cam, especially with the stock intake to boot. Your not going to have PV issues it's just that cam needs more then what the crappy stock e7 heads can flow. Yank it out and start for scratch and just match the compents like you would any other motor. To be honest ALL the mods you listed are slowing the car down and or doing no better then what the factory parts were doing.
 
PewterSS said:
Sounds like I need to tear it down and start over on it from scratch and do some research to find out what works good. Thanks for the replies it has helped and may just find a stock GT for sale or something

You don't necessarily have to go that far. Keep the e303 for now. Just save your money up for a set of alum. heads and a good flowing intake. Then it will match and you will be set.

I honestly don't think the cam it will hurt performance, IMO it will help. Adding duration to the cam puts your powerband later in the RPM range, which is where you want it. That increases tractive effort which in turn decreases your ET's. You may not gain much torque, but it will be shifted further forward and that is a good thing. You just don't know how much further to stay in each gear w/o a dyno chart.

But like said before, yank one of the VC's, get a adjustable pushrod and check it out. I know the correct way is to use a solid lifter, but it will get you in the ball park. I don't get why you would need longer pushrods b/c the deck height likely hasn't changed, and your head height hasn't. But maybe I am wrong, and that is why you should still check it out.
Scott
 
lol my SS will never leave my hands mainly because I owe way to much on it to trade it off and partly because I put alot of blood sweat and more blood into that thing to get to the 400 corrected hp/tq that I'm at now. But it will be losing alot of its parts here soon so if anyone is looking for a H/C LS1 to stick in your stang let me know.
 
i doubt the e cam is hurting performance right now, but with the stock heads and intake, you are definitely not seeing any real benefit from it. just about the only thing it is doing now is giving the car a lopey idle. if cost is a concern, a set of gt40x heads and a cobra intake will be a good start to seeing the full potential of that cam without shelling out a ton of money. one nice thing you will notice about 5.0 parts is that they cost much much less than ls1 parts do. good luck with it.
 
Keep the E cam in, get an Edelbrock Peformer intake for now. I believe 95Snoozer went 12.80's with the E cam, stock heads and induction mods (intake, throttle body, etc.). Down the road slap some AFR 165 heads on it. You change the intake now and your fine for awhile.

Is the car not running right? Stock push rods should have worked fine with zero issues.