New Here Shuddering In Rear

[95Stangpa]

I just bought my first Mustang! Its a 1995 V6/Auto.
Actually runs perfect. CEL is on, but otherwise runs like brand new. Shifts smooth. 142k on the clock.
I seen a OBD2 under the dash on a 95? Actually DOB is 8/94
I don't see that one under the hood where you jump the wries? i was reading that it cannot be a OBD2?

So shuttering in the back....It won't do it all the time. Only owned it for 3 days.
It is experiencing a shuttering type of feeling coming from the back. I check the torque boxes, their good! The bolt holes don't seem to be slotted out if that makes sense.
But sometimes when I am hitting around 30mph, or even under, it will vibrate/shutter in the rear end of the car.
I tried checking the trailing arms, bushings look original, but I used a pry bar, they seem to move slightly, but not very much.
I am lost. If it was the rear end itself inside, wouldn't it make noise or be doing it all the time? I can drive it three times, and nothing. Then sometimes it will do it tow times in a row. NON POSI. I believe.
I am lost!
I did pull the driveshaft. UJoint is older, and moves freely, but doesn't seem bad. I don't know what else to check.

Any advice would be appreciated. I am excited with my first Stang!! But I don't want to keep driving it like this, and I don't wanna start just throwing parts at it. That can get expensive.

 

[95Stangpa]

Thanks, I have it up in the air now. I laid under it forever. I know the trailing arms bushings are old. But I used a pry bar, they don't seem sloppy.
Ujoints seem loose, but not bad. I don't know how to describe that. They flop back and forth easy. But their not bad.
I don't know what pinion angle is. I am sorry about that. Could a bad rear end do it off an on? I would think a bad rear, would do it all the time.

 

[General karthief]

I have read conflicting opinions on obd2 vs eeciv on 94 mustangs, look for another test port under the hood on the passenger side in the hood hinge area, another post said check for power at the upper left plug slot on the under dash test port with the key on, someone will chime in here to help I'm sure.
As for the 'shuttering' I agree with fastdriver and will add check the rear brakes, loose calipers and parking brake mechanisms.

 

[95Stangpa]

I have read conflicting opinions on obd2 vs eeciv on 94 mustangs, look for another test port under the hood on the passenger side in the hood hinge area, another post said check for power at the upper left plug slot on the under dash test port with the key on, someone will chime in here to help I'm sure.
As for the 'shuttering' I agree with fastdriver and will add check the rear brakes, loose calipers and parking brake mechanisms.

I'll take another look tomorrow under the hood. Maybe I'm just missing it. I was looking at youtube clips of Fords from 94/95 and they had like a socket with a large plug then one single gray one. Then of course use a jumper. When I looked under the dash and seen a obd2 plug...I was like huh? Maybe they put them in at the factory during the transformation but didnt hook some up yet. Im going to hook my buddys scanner up to it tomorrow and see if it does anything.

Okay....now something you said caught me odd. When I apply my parking brake then release it. It doesnt release!!!
I used a pry bar and manually pushed each little arm on the calipers. Then the wheels free'd right up. I'm wondering if something is going on there? Its not the cables. Its like those arms or coil springs arent doing their job.
Honestly I did make sure the wheels were not locked up before taking it out though.
And didnt put the parking brake back on.
I may remove the rear calipers tomorrow now.
Besides the parking brake mechanism sticking. Im wondering if something else with them is throwing a fit sometimes?
Because now that you brought it up. Thats the type of feeling it is. Like a parking brake being applied while driving.
That jumping up and down in the rear. Although I released the lever on each one. Im wondering if something odd is happening? I dont unserstand these type of rear calipers.

 

[90sickfox]

The sn95s had issues with debri getting inside the parking brake cables. It would cause them to lock up....exactly like you're describing.

 

[95Stangpa]

I'm going to remove the calipers tomorrow and clean everything up. It would be nice if thats my problem. Im lost with it. It happens under acceleration.
I did make sure I manually got under the car and released both cables by moving the levers on the calipers.
I doubt if it is my rear end. Not ruling it out. But I think that would be doing it all the time. Its so random.

 

[95Stangpa]

Also.....Is there such a thing as too loose of a ujoint? I pulled the rear of the shaft down to see if the Ujoint was stiff since i ran into that on another car.
It didnt have play in the "wrong" direction....if that made sense. Cant explain what I mean....ugh
But it did move very easily. Like floppy?

 

[Mustang5L5]

The 94/95 V6 Mustangs were the first to get OBD2. Plug in a scanner into the port and read away

 

[95Stangpa]

It should move freely but if you hold both sides firmly, there shouldn't be any twist.

Thank you! I couldnt word it properly...lol
Yeah its very floppy, but it doesnt move in the wrong direction.

 

[95Stangpa]

FastDriver....I will grab my buddies scanner and give it a try. I seen some many conflicting stories while searching the other day. I actually got confused. I'll give it a try! Thank you!

 

[General karthief]

I got conflicting stories too, only two things where consistant,
If you have a test port under the hood on the passenger side by the hood hinge or you have power at the upper left slot for the under dash test port.
Got a headache from all the 'if it was built here for this state after this date unless it's a stick with a pink spare tire' dribble.

 

[95Stangpa]

I will be in the garage tomorrow. I didn't look near the hood hinge. I was looking elsewhere. I honestly dont know what it is supposed to look like now. I can only find ford trucks on you tube with that jumper wire one.
I'll check with a test light for power on the upper left slot of the obd2 hook up if I cant find it.
I hope this shuddering problem can be located. Im honestly lost with it now. Especially when I cannot get it go do it all the time. Just very seldom.

 

[General karthief]

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.
I just posted the pic and what to expect from jrichker's instructions, it may have a cover on it that says test port.

 

[95Stangpa]

Outstanding thank you! That looks simple enough. I'll take a tonight and if I have the obd1 plug under the hood.

 

[95Stangpa]

Okay I did take the rear end cover off. All looks good in therem
I think I found my shuttering/vibration issue. If this would cause it?
The transmission mount on the rear cross member near the tail shaft is shot.
I put a pry bar in there and I am able to lift the rear of the tranny up an down 2 inches. Its shot!
I'll have to look online for one. I dont want some special racing mount. They seem to cause vibration. I hope that can cause it.

 

[General karthief]

Rockauto, or most any auto parts store
Oriely's or napa it's a common part.

 

[95Stangpa]

I havent taken it apart yet to see what it looks like. But I found this on Oreillys.
That's if they actually have them in stock or can get them. Advance auto had stuff on their website before and then tell me they cant get the part. I think this may be the part.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/s...51_1134155_5106&reset=true&pt=C2251&ppt=C0338

 

[95Stangpa]

Thanks Bro!! I'll call O'Reillys tomorrow. Looks like the correct mount. If this fixes the issue. "Fingers Crossed" I'll do all the maintenance they I do when I get a car.
Fluids, tune up, stuff like that. Then start on fun stuff. Hehehehe.

 

[95Stangpa]

Thanks Bro!! I'll call O'Reillys tomorrow. Looks like the correct mount. If this fixes the issue. "Fingers Crossed" I'll do all the maintenance that I normally do when I get a car.
Fluids, tune up, stuff like that. Then start on fun stuff. Hehehehe.

 

[95Stangpa]

Okay I am officially lost and bummed out.
I replaced the transmission mount. The rear one. It was wore out. Opened the rear end. My buddy looked at it and said it had normal wear, but nothing looked bad.
I put fresh fluid in. Took it or a ride. First drive I was very happy. No vibration.
Front end has some play. Kinda scary but I'll deal with that later.
2nd drive I felt it slightly like only for a second.
3Rd drive I got sick to my stomach. Now I dont have to hit a bump to make it happen.
Soon as I was on the level at steady cruise at 40mph it started that vibration through the car. But feels like its coming from the rear. Unless its an illusion.
I got it up to 45mph and it got worse. Soon as I let off the gas it stopped!!!
Im lost??
Is there such a thing as a u joint being "too floppy"?
Its not loose in the "wrong direction".
But I could shake the rear drive shaft when I had it down and the u joint just flopped back and forth. Almost like there is no grease in it. But no play in it. That probably dont make sense. Im just shooting in the dark now. Please Help.

Also....could these be torque converter shutter?