ok i got a 88 gt mustang....well ive heard that an explore intake would work and create better flow over the stock intake.....well if this is true i can pick one up at a junk yard for VERY cheap. also if this is true, what year explorer am i looking for? thanx
Any year Explorer that had the 5.0 availble should work (late 90's). If the injectors are there, grab those as well if cheap. scgreyfox, I'm assuming you had headers for the E7TE's and not the GT-40P's that are on the Explorer? The heads are supposed to wake up the older 5.0's as well but require different headers.
The 95-early 97 Explorer intakes have the EGR passages in them if you need to keep emissions and they also have the bungs for the ACT and EGR collnat return lines. The late 97+ intakes don't have any of those features. So, if you need to worry about emissions, find an early intake.
Yes, the heads will work. The 95-early 97 heads were GT40's nad the stock headers or aftermarket will work, the 97+ heads are GT40P heads and they need a special header most of the time. Some guys say they can get the aftermarket non-P headers to work with 90° plug boots and such.
ok since now i know the explorer heads are gt-40p's if i read TMOSS right, and the intake would work (ive read some people say it flow as good as if not better then the real gt-40, if thats true i do not know but it better then stock) what cam would work with that combo and if i need them what size injectors? anything else i might need plz tell me.
better then stock, and i can get the heads and intake from a junk yard for about $250 $300 they said...just been to know a little more like cam injectors and whatever else would be good.
look at my sig, and you'll have your answer. the E cam compliments those pieces very nicely. The P heads are nice, and give good compression. Get new valves and springs for them, and get roller rockers instead of stock stamped POS pieces. The intake is more or less the GT40, so in the end, you're gonna have a clone 93 Cobra motor to some extent. My car made 281 ft/lb of RWTQ and 258 RWHP on a really bad tune with timing issues on the dyno. Now that she's tuned in, I'd say my HP is close to the 290s. The stock injectors will work, if you've got money to waste, get 24s for extra safety. a bigger MAF and throttle body are musts, as your engine is going to want to breathe more, and a good exhaust helps too. If you can afford it, get the heads and intake ported, as that can give good power too. if you have any more questions, let me know and I'll try to help. I just went through this a few months back before my motor was built.
ok i alreayd got a off road h-pipe with equal length headers and 2 chamber flowmasters, so i think that fills the part of having a good exhaust.....u said a bigger MAF, well i dont even have one in my 88. now bigger tb i was thinking 70mm, this good? will i be able to get by with the stock injectors or would it be better for the 24? for the porting i was going to have the heads ported and polished and the intake ported.....is polishing the heads worth it?
Before you do any of this, you need to do a Mass Air Conversion. You're car can't handle cam/head/intake mods appropriately and will run all screwed up unless you swap from speed density to mass air. I had to do that, too. You need a Mass Air Sensor, the harness for it, and a 89-93 computer that matches your car (5.0, auto or 5 spd). You will need to swap from your headers to Ford Racing's GT40 P specific headers.The plug placement and orientation on a P head is different than any other 302 head, and requires headers with different runners. Don't listen to people who try and hack in other headers, it's a pain, you have to disform your headers, and it doesn't work right. 70mm TB is right on target, that's the one I will be getting ASAP. Stock injectors will run fine, my car ran rich on the dyno before I tuned it to a neutral A/F ratio. Porting and polishing is definitely worth it, I wish I had gotten mine done before I bolted them in, but money and time were both tight, so I didn't. It supports better flow, which means more power. There's alot that goes into this other than just the heads, cam, and intake. you need new head bolts, new gaskets, roller rockers, possibly new valve covers, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a new timing chain, hardened pushrods, new valve springs setup for atleast .550" lift, new valves, guides, retainers, and seals, and once you do it, lots of other weak points are gonna show up- IE- the day I got the car back, the oil pump died, then the radiator let go, now the tranny is going. It's a never ending cycle, but it's worth it. Any more questions, post them up, and don't let me discourage you, I'm just filling you in on some of the hard spots I hit.
nothing dicouraging, im just trying to know exactly what i need to do while my engines out and im putting it all back together. thanx alot this really helped
If he ever wanted to upgrade his injectors, he'd need to go MAF, and it'll help with getting the car to run right. While he's doing the whole project he might as well get this done. Plus, the cam will screw his motor up if it's SD. It's something worth doing since it only costs about 100.00 from a junk yard, and is an easy project if you're good with wiring.