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New mspnp for my 94 gt....have some basic ?'s

  • Thread starter Thread starter 94tang
  • Start date Start date Jul 18, 2018
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94tang

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Jul 18, 2018
#1
  • Jul 18, 2018
  • #1
Ok, so setting base timing with factory ecu, you pull the "pill", rotate the dizzy to 14* ( for 93 octane) tighten dizzy, reinstall pill...how do you do this with ms/ts......everything ive read so far (had the pnp for a week now) says to use trigger wizard and set it to 20.....so the base timing is set to 20 $@%!&# degrees?!!!!...

Im confused....the car runs and drives, just not great
 

a91what

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#2
  • Jul 18, 2018
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Have you looked at the instruction manual? Or read the tool tip?

Timing is set using 'fixed timing' instead of 'use table' you get to specify the amount of timing in the fixed timing box.
Then bring up the trigger wizard and use the wizard to adjust the offset until what's in the big box on the wizard matches what the balancer reads. You will not remove the spout 'pill' during this process.

When everything matches close the wizard set the instruction back to 'use table' and save the tune. Now your distributor is synced.
 

94tang

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#3
  • Jul 18, 2018
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So there is no "base" timing to set?.....the numbers in the timing table, is that actual timing or an adder?.....thanks for the help
 

a91what

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#4
  • Jul 18, 2018
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Numbers in the table are the timing amount, the ECU needs to know the 'offset' or base timing that is what you are setting in TS with the wizard.
 

94tang

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#5
  • Jul 19, 2018
  • #5
So i followed the instructions for "setting timing"....everything matched up with the MS....which is not what i was wanting to see. Below 2500rpms the car runs ok(still have some fine tuning to do), above say 3000rpms, the car bucks and sputters, backfiring through the exhaust sometimes. I drove around today and kept backing off timing till everthing smoothed out. What i ended up with was a table that looks way retarded (timing wise) but the car runs better. I was hoping i done something wrong and the timing was actually higher than what the table was showing but that it is not the case.The engine is a5.0L " standard" GT40 setup( GT40 heads, intake, with aftermarket cam) running 93 octane. With the factory eec iv it put down 275rwhp, 315 torque. I even thought at one point my MSD box (6AL Digital) may have been the issue, but i unhooked it and the problem got worse.
 

a91what

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  • Jul 19, 2018
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Uh what was the fuel like? What did the wideband read? Bucking is caused by fuel issues 99.99% of the time, not timing.

much less timing reduces the power output of the engine thus reducing the required amount of fuel, this does not make it right however. do you have a datalog of the drive?? without seeing what the car was doing i cannot give direct advice.
 

Blown88GT

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#7
  • Jul 19, 2018
  • #7
94tang said:
Ok, so setting base timing with factory ecu, you pull the "pill", rotate the dizzy to 14* ( for 93 octane) tighten dizzy, reinstall pill...how do you do this with ms/ts......everything ive read so far (had the pnp for a week now) says to use trigger wizard and set it to 20.....so the base timing is set to 20 $@%!&# degrees?!!!!...

Im confused....the car runs and drives, just not great
Click to expand...
Either way will work. Removing the distributor SPOUT (pill) locks the timing to whatever you rotate it to using a timing light. After you reinsert the pill, you can use the trigger wizard to verify or modify without the use of a timing light.
 
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94tang

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 24, 2003
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#8
  • Jul 19, 2018
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a91what said:
Uh what was the fuel like? What did the wideband read? Bucking is caused by fuel issues 99.99% of the time, not timing.

much less timing reduces the power output of the engine thus reducing the required amount of fuel, this does not make it right however. do you have a datalog of the drive?? without seeing what the car was doing i cannot give direct advice.
Click to expand...

Bucking was probably the wrong term....sputtering is prob closer.....afr was right around target 13.5

I would gladly get a datalog for you, if i knew how......im very new to all this
 

94tang

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 24, 2003
297
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Jul 19, 2018
#9
  • Jul 19, 2018
  • #9
Blown88GT said:
Either way will work. Removing the distributor SPOUT (pill) locks the timing to whatever you rotate it to using a timing light. After you reinsert the pill, you can use the trigger wizard to verify or modify without the use of a timing light.
Click to expand...

Tried pulling the SPOUT just to see what would happen and the car died.....
 

94tang

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#10
  • Aug 4, 2018
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I hooked all the factory stuff back up and reset the timing to 10* BTDC. I then reinstalled the MS and using the trigger wizard ONLY and fixed timing, i reset the base timing. What i ended up with was an offset of 52* using the trigger wizard. My timing tables look normal now and the car runs pretty good, although i still have fuel trims to adjust.
 

a91what

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#11
  • Oct 11, 2018
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Ever get it sorted out correctly?
 

94tang

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#12
  • Oct 15, 2018
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Yep.....car is running pretty good......need to get back to the dyno soon and confirm
 

94tang

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#13
  • Oct 15, 2018
  • #13
The only thing i have left to figure out is the A/C Idle up feature
 

a91what

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  • Oct 15, 2018
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It's fairly simple to setup, however the ECU has to know that the ac is on. I have mine working and it does well. Are you CL idle?
 

94tang

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  • Oct 15, 2018
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yeah....CL
 

a91what

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  • Oct 15, 2018
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Ok the setting needs to watch the AC input set as either high (12v) or low (ground) it comes I to the ECU as a 12v signal so we can start with high.
I built my own ECU so my wiring internally is different from yours. You may need to see if there is an AC idle up 'jumper' you need to move.
 

94tang

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#17
  • Oct 15, 2018
  • #17
Will this jumper be at the connector or internal?
 

a91what

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#18
  • Oct 15, 2018
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Your jumpers would be internal, I do not have the documentation for your pnp to reference. I would start there
 

94tang

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#19
  • Oct 15, 2018
  • #19
Thanks Steve
 

94tang

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Aug 24, 2003
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#20
  • Apr 29, 2019
  • #20
a91what said:
Ok the setting needs to watch the AC input set as either high (12v) or low (ground) it comes I to the ECU as a 12v signal so we can start with high.
I built my own ECU so my wiring internally is different from yours. You may need to see if there is an AC idle up 'jumper' you need to move.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure my MSPNP is a sealed case
 
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