New Radiator...3 row or 4 row??

[crankywanker]

Hey guys I'm buying a new radiator for my 351 cleveland due to crushing the bottom outlet during a tow. Which should I get a 3 row or 4 row radiator? I had a 4 row before but I'm just curious if i should use a 3 row as its a smaller fit in my already cramped engine bay. Also, are there any recommendations for any companies who sell well-priced and highly efficient radiators? thanks in advance!

 

[2+2GT]

That 4th row is only good for about a 10% improvement. How bad do you need that 10%?

 

[robbz28]

I would stick with the four row, if it fits before It should fit fine now, and only if its copper! Don't buy one of those cheesy 4 row aluminum ones with the 3/8 rows. If you get aluminum get a 2 row with 1" rows. I live in muggy louisiana, so I need all the cooling capacity I can get, not sure your situation.

 

[crankywanker]

Well I'm not sure If I will need the 4th row or not but It couldnt hurt. I am in Oklahoma and it gets pretty hot in the summer time. I remember my car overheating when I had an old 2 row in it with the 302...

 

[robbz28]

Yeah I had one of those little 2 rows and it was terrible. I went ahead and got the 2 row aluminum, without a thermostat in it, it hardly gets over 150...I know I need to put a thermostat in there to regulate the temp at around 180, but ever since I had a thermostat fail on me I have been sooo scared to put one back in it.

 

[65FBE2]

2 row Northern alum is a drop in fit. It will out cool any 4 row brass rad. Always run a thermostat though. Without it the flow through the rad is too fast and it does not have time to cool properly and if the air temp drops you will not be able to hold the engine at optimal operating temp

 

[PoppyMod]

I'm running 4 row brass job now with a 180 T/S, shroud, and aluminum flex fan, and have been, for 8 years. My temps rarely exceed 210 deg after idling for an hour for tuning etc. But, if I were to make the leap to aluminum, I'd go for the Redline unit and paint it black.