New Stroker Motor for 1967 Fastback

03SHKR

Member
Jul 20, 2004
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16
Portland, OR
Any of you folks done a stroker for your classic mustang? I'm having a 351W bored and stroked to 427 c.i. Currently, I have about 260 rear wheel horsepower with a 302. This is connected to a Richmond 5-speed (which I will re-use). With the new motor, I figure I should have at least 400 rwhp. If for some reason going from 260 to 400 is not enough, I can always add more grunt.

Here's the grocery list:
  • 1969 351W block with 4.060” bore
  • Motor was hot-tanked, magnafluxed, line-bored, decked, blue printed and balanced
  • SCAT Forged Crank with 4-1/8" stroke and large radius journals
  • SCAT 4340 steel h-beam connector rods 6.2” length
  • Keith Black hypereutectic flat top pistons
  • Crane Roller Cam
  • Cam intake duration at 0.050" is 236 with 0.574" lift
  • Cam exhaust duration at 0.050" is 244 with 0.595" lift
  • Canfield 2.02 - 1.60 aluminum racing heads with 70cc chamber, powder coated old Ford Blue
  • Estimated 10.4:1 compression
  • Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake powder coated
  • Edelbrock 750 CFM carburetor with electronic choke
  • Comp Cams roller rockers 1.6 ratio
  • Billet steel main cap girdle
  • Melling high volume oil pump
  • High volume Carter fuel pump with integral filter
  • Holly fuel pressure regulator and liquid filled fuel pressure gauge
  • Performance push rods
  • Crane Electronic Ignition with built in rev limiter
  • Crane Fireball Coil
  • High volume water pump
  • All polished stainless steel bolts with Ford Oval logo

Just wondering how many others have gone down this path...
 
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Take it from me. You can never have enough power... I have 396 RWHP...and I want more. Trying to figure out a plan to get it up to 450 this winter without just slapping a cheater bottle on it ;)

Remember to make sure you upgrade the rest of the car to support this power...it is a big difference.

2 front torque boxes.
Subframe connectors
Underriders or cal-tracs (no slapper bars)
Widest tire you can get (wheel chart will help with the one)
Big brakes
New or upgraded suspension
New or upgraded steering
and White teeth...since you will be smiling a whole hell of alot.
 
Let me get this straight...

You're going all out for a stroker motor...with a forged crank and forged H-BEAM!!! rods...and you get Keith Crap cast pistons?

You'd better be happy with the power you get because running a power adder on those pistons is not a good idea.
 
Yep, I would upgrade the pistons for sure. It really depends on what you are building this monster for though. Strip? Street? Street Strip?? Do you want a rough idle? Do you drive it on long drives so you would think about gears?? Lot of things you'll have to decide for yourself on this one. I myself built the 408 for 1/2 stip 1/2 street. I like the rough idles, loud mufflers, not REAL long drives etc. I myself (if affordable) would get a slightly bigger cam, go with a vic jr and definatly a bigger carb. But like I said, depends on what you want to do with this thing. I run the same compession, ported vic jrs by myself, about the same cam though its a hyd. roller, perf rpm, and 750 proformed holley that flows around 830 cfm. C-4 with 4.11's. Don't know about rear wheel horse but it should be around 420-450?? Engine dyo said 519 horse and 532 ft/lbs. torque. Yours should be awesome!! Have fun burning the tires off!!
 
I know the saying “you can never have enough horsepower.” But, I’m not addicted to horsepower. I do have a taste for it (my daily driver is a 2003 Mach 1). For something more, I’m thinking my next project will be a race car; a combination of a road car and drag car. Yeah, I know, one or the other will maximize the car’s capabilities. But, I can live with the compromises. I already have a car sitting in the driveway begging for mods. Anyway, I know this would satisfy my spontaneous power urges.

My 67 Fastback is strictly a show car. I already improved the cooling and I already have custom sub-frame connector welded in. Four wheel disc brakes and other upgrades will be done before next year’s show season starts. In the future, I may take it to the strip just to see what it does. But, I won’t really “race” this car (I have too much money invested to risk it).

I drive my 67 to shows. No trailer. I my opinion if you can’t drive it, it’s no fun and not worth it. Anyway, I don’t want a real rough idle and I doubt I’ll ever use a power adder (I never say never). The longest drive it’s had is about 3 hours; from Portland, OR to Bellevue, WA for the big Mustang show is July. And I hope to get it there again next year. Most of the drives are less than an hour. The car gets about 1200 miles per year.

As for the pistons, engine components can be controversial; just like the Ford vs. Chevy debate. Some people ONLY use one brand of carb/cam/oil/intake/etc., others ONLY use another brand, and some don’t have a strong preference. It’s been 20 years since I physically built an engine myself. But, I did a little research and didn’t see any negatives to the Keith Blacks. My engine builder use to build race car engines and he likes the Keith Blacks (he also knows how I drive and care for my 67). So, I have to ask you guys, what specifically is wrong with Keith Black pistons? Are the negative comments due to preference? When you state use a different piston, what would you consider to be good, better, best? I would like to see how your opinions line up with mine.
 
I've talked to several engine builders and they've all had problems with KB pistons. But the main thing is that, regardless of brand, cast pistons will frag if you run nitrous or a supercharger/turbocharger on that engine.

Your rods can take at least 800-900 hp but your pistons would be lucky to get past 500hp, IMHO.
 
Those pistons will work just fine. But if you want to run a power adder, I would have them changed. They will be good right now for over 500hp.

I would ditch that edelbrock carb though. You should have something like a speed demon 750 with mechanical secondaries. Id also port that intake or upgrade to a vic jr.
 
My only complaint is that he goes all out for the rods and crank but gets the bottom-shelf pistons.

Also, that's a pretty small cam for a 427W, what's the LSA? You're probably going to have a really smooth idle with cam that size in a 427. I don't know if you want a little chop, but just so you know...
 
Regarding perceived problems with Keith Black pistons, I still don’t see anything specific. And I didn’t see any opinion on which piston is good, better, best. I’ve know a lot of engine builders who have had problems with a lot of different things. But, that doesn’t necessarily mean particular parts/brands are crap.

I think I understand the concern about “fragging” with a power adder. And again, I don’t like to say never. But right now, I am definitely not considering one. And in the future, I just can’t see me putting a supercharger or something on this car. Who knows? Maybe on the race car. But, that’s a whole different ball game.

I guess I should have known posting the grocery list would create another discussion. I do realize the cam, intake and carb can be changed to improve hp/tq. I appreciate the opinions and input. And I encourage more of it. But, it’s my car, my money, and my motor. I’m happy with this combination/setup. And I can’t wait to drive it home. But, I posted this to see how many people put a stroker in their classic Mustang. I’d like to know who did what, how they like it, and how they use the car. :D
 
The design in the top of the Kb piston and the material they use calls for the top ring gaps to be huge because of expansion(heat) every motor I have taken apart with these style pistons that encountered problems it just seemed there was alot of blow buy and the tops of the pistons always seem to have damage, granted this is just motors that had other problems but this something that was common to all I have never encountered these problems with other types or manufactures.
 
Another thing you might want to think about is the block. The most important component that holds everything togeather. I have heard of stock blocks spliting in half reving up to 6500 RPM when they are throwing down 600+ HP. I would invest in a main stud girdle also.

Ditch the pistons and go with a good set of forged

And buy those KAASE JEGS canted valve cylendar heads with the 247cc intake runners to feed those cubes.
 
blkfrd said:
KBs get an undue rap because they were misused...

If the top ring gap is not set correctly for the application, the piston land will break off and some may think its because the pistons are cruddy when in reality it was installation error.

All rings will have more problems sealing in a stroker due to a short skirt and piston rocking causing instability of the ring face.

No rhetoric...just facts.

You've made a good choice...just be sure they are gapped correctly.


blkfrd,

This is exactly what my engine builder said. He has been successful with many engines using KBs.

:cheers:
 
I am also building a stroked 427 out of a SVO W351 block.Here is my list of components:
Edelbrock Victor Glidden heads
Edelbrock Victor Intake ported by Chapman Racing (same company that does the Glidden heads)
T&D Rockers
Manley 4340 rods
Manley 4340 Crank
Stef's Aluminum oil Pan
Forged Pistons
Custom ground cam
custom plate Nitrous set up (good up to 400 shot)
Carb Shop 850 Holley
Looking to get it dynoed in 3 weeks. Oh yeah I had my engine builder make it so I can run 93 octane in it