New Timing Belt>> 1984 SOHC 1 Barrel 2.3L

I put on a new timing belt Exactly as instructed in the Haynes Book>>> no fire and then I noticed the number one plug on the original belt was one plug wire counter clockwise>>> so I moved all of the wires one spot clockwise to match the new belt install>> is that going to screw something up? It's a TFI Distributor>>>
 
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I looked at the top of my distributor >>> it doesn't have a #1 on it anywhere>>> I went to Autozone website where I bought it and looked at the same one>>>
It has a #1 on it>>> at the original position one plug wire CCW>>> so do these Distributors #1 have to be #1>>> the reason I'm asking is, Does this thing have a PIP sensor in it at the #1position>>> I don't know jack Sh*t about it>>>I'm guessing here but if it does, is that PIP at the #1 position--- Reporting to the EEC-IV (computer)
If it is, the way I have it #2 is reporting as #1 and that will Fup the whole thing>>>
so...does the #1 position marked on the distributor report to the computer as #1 because it has a PIP hooked to it or at it, so the comp will correctly calculate WTF it's supposed to? 8-D hahaha
 
I'm not familiar with the 4cylinder engines but if you bring the #1 piston to tdc the rotor will point to #1 on the cap, after that make sure your wires are in the correct firing order paying attention to the direction the distributor turns.
 
That would work but since the Dist Cap didn't have a #1 marked on it>>> I went by the Haynes manual and it had the #1 plug the next spot Clockwise.
It runs like homemade Goose :poo:. So I'm going to take the Belt off and redo, pointing it one spot CCW according to the picture of the cap on the Autozone website.
Still wondering if the #1 plug on the Distributor has a Pickup Ignition Protocol Sensor down in the Distributor body signaling the EEC-IV Computer.
I have been Googling this for a week and can't find anything about it. TFI Distributor
 
I will repeat, I'm a dummy on 4 cylinder engines but my understanding is it does not matter where on the cap number one plug wire is as long as the rotor points to it at tdc and the firing order is correct. I would make sure all the timing marks are in the right places. I did a belt on one years ago and remember it was hard to get everything lined up but someone else took it off.
 
It may be more complicated than that>>>
The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby by creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module.
The Powertrain Control Module Sensor(PCM), housed inside the distributor, responds to a rotating metallic shutter mounted on the distributor shaft. This rotating shutter produces a digital Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) signal, which is used by the Powertrain Control Module Sensor and TFI (Ignition Control Module) to provide base timing information, determine engine speed (rpm) and crankshaft position. The distributor shaft rotates at one-half crankshaft speed, therefore the shutter rotates once for every two crankshaft revolutions.>>>
I think I'm going to redo the belt and move the Pointer on the Distributor >

Ford EEC-IV/TFI-IV Electronic Engine Control Troubleshooting
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml
 
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I think you missed my point but you are well versed on the workings of the ignition system so I have no doubt you will get it running good :nice:
Keep at it, you'll figure it out, just keep us posted on what you find.
 
That's the point I have it Perfect right now According to the Haynes Book(see the PDF file)>>>
Now look at the Picture of the Distributor:
https://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/wl2/F968/9/image/3/
Haynes Book has the #1 the next one Clock Wise and that's how I have mine>>
Runs BAAD as in not good>>>
So the next thing to do is take it apart> redo the belt, repositioning the rotor to where the #1 is in the autozone picture>>>
I also replaced the TFI module and it is solid
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I will repeat, I'm a dummy on 4 cylinder engines but my understanding is it does not matter where on the cap number one plug wire is as long as the rotor points to it at tdc and the firing order is correct. I would make sure all the timing marks are in the right places. I did a belt on one years ago and remember it was hard to get everything lined up but someone else took it off.
 

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I Thought I would be able to put a Timing light on it & get get it zeroed in>>> But I can't find any Info on where to put the mark>>>
6 degrees BTDC in the Haynes Book for older models>>> nothing for 1984>>> 10 degrees on the I-Net>>> none work>>>
Still had pinging so I kept dropping it back down 2 degrees at a time>>> every time I dropped it the pinging slacked up>>>
I AM BACK TO ZERO DEGREES TDC with a slight ping at about 2000RPM>>> so I unplugged the vacuum going to the EGR Valve>>>
That SEEMS to have did the trick>>> I can stil hear it trying to Ping but is very little so I am going to start using a higher Octane gas
and see if this PAIN IN THE ASS will cooperate>>>
I will say that If anyone has a Timing Belt>>> change it at 20K to 25K because these things stretch really bad>>>
The one I took off of this one had so much SLACK between the oil pump/Distributor pully/gear and the CAM that I could flap it back and forth
like a loose rubber band and that explains having to time it at 5 degrees ATDC>>>WHAT!!!??
 
TO my knowledge, the 2.3 distributor doesn't really care where #1 is. 5.0 is different, however, one reluctor is smaller than the other 7 such that that one is #1 cylinder. On every 2.3 I've messed with, they're all the same size.

The way I like to do it is to get everything set up and running properly, then pull the belt cover, spin the engine to TDC, and place a mark on the inner belt cover that lines up with the aux pulley mark. That way if you have to pull it apart again, it's easy to put it where it was. Or "easiER".

Using string to line everything up is easier for me, as well. There's a good writeup on turboford.org that explains it. You also have to be aware of the lower pulley and it's keyway. I've seen more than a few 2.3's that the key was nearly sheared and the crankshaft keyway was worn to the point where it was impossible to properly time it. Also, the pulley itself can wear out. They are still available new, by the way, from most any parts store, should you need one. Theres also a key on the cam although I've never seen one of those worn/broken...although I guess it could happen.

Advanced cam timing (one or more teeth) can cause pinging. Worth mentioning. Retarded, it'll barely run. Just did my 2.3 turbo a few hours ago and had it off a tooth retarded. It ran but had zero power. Had to floor it to keep it running and it would run about 1500 RPM max. That is also with retarded ignition timing.

But also, ping can be caused by vacuum leaks...lean condition...overly hot engine...and poor fuel. You don't need 91 or 93 octane, but you do need FRESH fuel. The older it gets the more likely it is to ping, and excessive "ping" can cause a head gasket failure....or worse.
 
Warrior thanks for the reply>>> I bought a new Distributor Cap & Rotor< TFI module, Coil>>> this Cap has a #1 on it >>>
I took the belt loose and moved the rotor pointing at that plug wire and double checked the Cam & Crank positions>>>
Still pinged>>> then I replaced the Oxygen sensor and ETC sensor>>>
all of that cured the Pinging but going up a slight incline or trying to accelerate is just not enough power and going from 45 to 55 really sucks>>>
I'm starting to wonder if I might have a partial obstruction in the exhaust system>>> I have a hole in the muffler and screwed a patch over that>>>
105k miles on the engine is that enough to clog the Catistrophic Converter or maybe I need to beat the hell out of the Muffler with a Rubber Hammer
 
Don't expect much power out of it. They are, what, 85 hp? Mine is a '93 and has more power (115hp I think), but it's STILL, quite honestly, painfully slow. Local hill is a 4th gear climb in the truck, barely touch the throttle to maintain 45 mph. In the car? 3rd gear/3500 RPM on the floor to maintain.

Usually if the "catastrophic" converter is plugged, it will barely reach 3000 RPM. On the turbo 2.3 engines, after driving around with plugged cat, the turbo and manifold will begin to glow, visible mostly at night.

The "good" thing about it is that you can put a roller cam in it very easily and very cheaply. Find a 2.3 in a junkyard that has 8 spark plugs and pull the cam AND the followers, but don't get the ones newer than 94 as the valve stem diameter changed and those use narrower followers. The roller cam really helps N/A 2.3's in the torque department from idle speed to about 3000. Makes a big difference, if nothing else, but a better idle and better throttle response. The original "slider" cams are usually worn out because of the change in oil formulation several years back. I have at least 2 worn sliders out in the shop both from turbo engines.
 
I think there's something going on with #4 cylinder>>> #1#2#3 plugs are white like they are firing hot with good combustion>>>
#4 is brownish>>>I took an extra spark plug and grounded it to the battery and individually connected the plug wires one at a time (engine running) and they all get spark, so what Now>>>are the valves in #4 screwed up?>>>Harbor Fright has a Compression Gage $30 I can get for$22 today(coupon expires)>>>
Whats #4 going to have --- Zero? I guess if this thing is only running on 3 cylinders that may explain sucky performance>>
but I got on the interstate yesterday and after I got past finally 55mhp I was hauling ass up to 75
 
The 2.3 is a solid motor, but needs proper building. They were and still are run at sprint car circle races. I am putting one in a sportscar with a carb and no computers. Also, junkyardwarrior is correct about the change in oils. ZINC was removed which helps flat tappet cams but is not needed with rollers. Look on the quart oil container back for ZINC. My 65 Mustang 6-cylinder has the same problem with new oils. ZINC can be bought in STP additive and mixed with your oil. A compression gauge is a good tool to have and a vacuum gauge even better. Remember, an engine is basically an air pump and you don't want any leaks. Valves must open and close at the right time, lift the proper height, seal completely, and a vacuum gauge will let you know if it is happening. If your 2.3 is tuned, its 88HP will do fine for street use, and more HP can be added with removal of exhaust restrictions and a cool-air intake. I'm in Texas where cold-air intakes do not exist! I hope for 110 HP on a street engine without boring. Stock 2300cc, mild cam, new followers, springs, homebuilt points (yes) distributor, hot coil, better exhaust, new Esslinger aluminum intake with an Autolite 2100 carb (287cfm) and a cool-air intake. Before anyone argues with me about "points", they worked great for 70 years on the street and the track. Engineering wise, they make a LONGER-in-time spark than an electronic dizzy...that is why MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge) was invented. It simulates a points system longer duration spark. Besides, no computers are needed! Service intervals was the reason for electronics, plus putting FI controls and timing into one system. No doubt it is better for that, but not true for old carb engines...though it can be. Food for thought from an old Hot Rod guy.
 
If you were running on 3 cylinders, you'd know it. It would BARELY pull itself, speaking from experience. On my turbo 2.3, when a plug wire goes south and runs on 3 cylinders even at 20 psi it's a turd.
 
junkyardwarrior, the idea is to build an engine that runs on ALL cylinders! No doubt the loss of a cylinder really hurts on a 4-cylinder. For those who knock carbs and points, remember, all cars prior to the mid-1970's had points. Corvette's, Cobra's, Mustangs, GTO's (please don't call them a goat, that is for Dodge Rams) and even race cars used them, and they ran great. YES, YES, YES, electronics are far better for today's engines that have Fuel-Injection, o2 sensors, MAS, MAP, Vacuum, TPS and even more sensors, and rev high RPM. But it is not necessary for engines below 5,000 RPM with a carb. Maybe today's motor-heads just don't understand carburetors and how to adjust them. Once I adjust a carb I do not need to readjust it for many thousands of miles. The same holds true for points. Today's points are far better than OEM 1965 points and so are coils, wires, and spark plugs. And I do run a Pertronix after setting the dizzy for points, then keep them in the glove box or trunk. For my younger car friends...TODAY'S ENGINES ARE FAR BETTER THAN 50 YEAR OLD ENGINES IN EVERY RESPECT! However, my 6-cylinder 1965 Mustang with automatic, air conditioning and front discs gets 25 MPG while running the AC at 75 MPH...and it will go well past the century mark, though I have not had an opportunity to check MPG at that speed.