new to me 1965 mustang. looking for links to full frame threads.

mike657894

Member
Nov 18, 2018
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bay city michigan
New to the forum. Im looking for links to threads or web sites that involve full frame conversions or front subframe from scratch builds for use with m2 suspension kits. Ive been doing research but a little extra help and info can never hurt.
 

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rbohm

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Apr 12, 2002
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mike, why reinvent the wheel here? the original stock suspension, especially with todays technology and some proper setups do very nicely thank you.

also no reason to do a full frame conversion unless you are going racing in a high end class. subframe connectors, as well as a few other mods do very nicely as well in stiffening up the chassis. after installing subframe connectors, tie them into the inner rocker panels with a similar version of the extreme matrix brace that kenny brown used to increase chassis stiffness in the fox body mustangs, like this one;

http://store.kennybrown.com/product/chassis-support/extreme-matrix-brace-1979-2004-mustang-and-cobra

add in the jacking rails, like these;

http://store.kennybrown.com/product...1993-and-2005-2014-mustang-boss-302-and-gt500

and you can really stiffen up the stock mustang chassis. add in the export brace and monte carlo bar as well as one of zray's cross members to really stifeen up the front end;

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...le-street-competition-engine-crossmember.html

then go over to opentracker racing products and pick up his front suspension parts that bolt in place of the stock ones, because they are blueprinted stock parts that operate like they are supposed to. include lower control arms with spherical bearings and roller bearing spring perches, and adjustable strut rods, and you are basically done.
 

mike657894

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Nov 18, 2018
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bay city michigan
I bought the car with modernizing in mind. If you gotta buy everything why buy it old? Why save old small 6cyl 4lug drum brakes? I wanted to use the drawings to design a front subframe that connects to the rear sub. I am new to mustangs but have found repo steel on my other vehicles to just not be up to snuff and dont want to play that 5 year revolving door game again. The floor in my car does not appear to be strong enough to support a subframe. But it doesnt have holes or look that degraded just looks to be under designed for what im going to do with it. The car shifts under the force of a jack before lifting a tire.

same amount of effort less cost. it takes me less time to make two sticks that z twice than to make $1500 for the total control weld in sub and then I put my drums back on that ? so instead of of expensive $750 brake kit and 500 in springs and shocks. 1500 for a front suspension k member kit similar price better ride.

I have prints for the connectors and the ford print. i guess thats all you need. I thought some one would have a cad or napkin drawing of a replacement sub rail to diy with 2x3x.120 I can trial and error it out. but why if I dont have to. I also can buy one front half rail for $60 and use that as a pattern

I have a model A and all this stuff is around for that thought this car might be the same.
 

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Charlie Cheap

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Jun 5, 2018
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Abilene, Texas
I bought the car with modernizing in mind. If you gotta buy everything why buy it old? Why save old small 6cyl 4lug drum brakes? I wanted to use the drawings to design a front subframe that connects to the rear sub. I am new to mustangs but have found repo steel on my other vehicles to just not be up to snuff and dont want to play that 5 year revolving door game again. The floor in my car does not appear to be strong enough to support a subframe. But it doesnt have holes or look that degraded just looks to be under designed for what im going to do with it. The car shifts under the force of a jack before lifting a tire.

same amount of effort less cost. it takes me less time to make two sticks that z twice than to make $1500 for the total control weld in sub and then I put my drums back on that ? so instead of of expensive $750 brake kit and 500 in springs and shocks. 1500 for a front suspension k member kit similar price better ride.

I have prints for the connectors and the ford print. i guess thats all you need. I thought some one would have a cad or napkin drawing of a replacement sub rail to diy with 2x3x.120 I can trial and error it out. but why if I dont have to. I also can buy one front half rail for $60 and use that as a pattern

I have a model A and all this stuff is around for that thought this car might be the same.
Since you have the front frame-horns removed make sure to tie the new ones to the rear. You are right about FLEX. If jacking it changes the body, BUILD A FRAME! I do think the OEM Mustang can be made very stout, but you have already committed. You probably know this, but a brace between the shock towers is a must. Many forego this brace, but NOT ME, and with the front frame tied to the back, you have a car-on-a-frame...old-school style.
IMG_1947.JPG
 

mike657894

Member
Nov 18, 2018
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bay city michigan
Charlie Cheap, I really like the way your car looks. Great job!

Open to criticisms as this is a rough draft and may be different from final product. I apologize for drafting and pendmendship that would get an E in middle school. Top being stock and bottom what Im to build. I will mock this rail up in wood first. To have something to test fit and make sure it all will work. Im thinking 2x3x11ga because that seems to be what some have said. Others have said 3/16. Others say that is overdoing it. I plan for a big block maybe up to 500 horse someday. Im open to opinions on steel and type. I plan to make the out side of frame 32in leaving 28 between rails. These measurements were made through suspension over rust and undercoating and grease on bent parts. I would try to scrape away and make these as accurate as possible but any corrections are welcome.

This is going to be a mustang II after market suspension. anything that needs to be changed for that would be helpful. I expect to make some indents for spring and shock. Are those indents still needed if you use coilovers? I haven't decided if I want to get coil over or coliovers yet.

the lowest drawing is a jig idea. I have some 2x10x12ft roof pick boards that I may lay on the floor for that. But that will depend if they pass my inspection.
drawing.jpg
 

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Charlie Cheap

Member
Jun 5, 2018
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Abilene, Texas
Mike, I used 2 x 3 x .125 (11 gauge) steel to build Street Rod frames. I built on a flat/level concrete floor I had poured just for that purpose. By using long pipe-clamps to pull the outside of the frame rails IN, and cutting 2x4's to proper length to fill the inside rail spacing, things can be held at a steady distance, I could weld everything without worry of changes. I drew everything in chalk/grease pencil first ON THE FLOOR, to scale. If an idea came to me after starting, I could erase the floor and redraw. Simple but it worked. Let the car body dictate where to put the new rails. The factory has already done much of the engineering for you, and there is usually a good reason rails are where they are. Motor and trans mounts can be made to fit anywhere. Mustang V8 stuff is fairly stout, and aftermarket trick suspension stuff is extra stout. Plus, I never got in a hurry with the MIG, and let things cool after switching my welds around to different areas to spread the heat.
IMG_1743.JPG
 
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