New To The Forum. Just Got A 90 Lx
- Thread starter Spaz337
- Start date
And as far as the rust there is none. It's a very solid car. It's also an automatic but the guy I got it from said it has a 3000 stall tc and Trans brake but he said he disconnected the tb... I've never owned anything with a Trans brake so I guess I have to read up on em. I don't really think I'll be using it anytime soon though so I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. I may do some drag racing when it gets worthy but mostly it will just be a cruiser. I drive a bmw so I don't expect the handling to be too impressive with full lockers. I'm actually kind of afraid it will be hard to get any kind of handling out of it. Keep in mind guys, I have only had this car about a week and I've been pretty busy. The only thing I've done is clean the inside out and fix some some rat nests. I'm also looking to move the battery to the trunk real soon via kicker 0 Guage hyperfex because of weight and the fact that there just isn't much room in the battery box. Two questions come to mind though. If I ground the engine to the body with 0 Guage will it be OK in the trunk or am I going to have too much resistance? I don't wanna burn up a starter or anything. I just thought it would be a good idea and I have the wire and breakers
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Thanks goes to @jrichker for the diagram
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
Thanks goes to @jrichker for the diagram
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
Partially the reason I have a Cobra IRS in my garage awaiting upgrades and installation into my Fox this winter.
Yep but I'm not trying to compare a Fox to any other car. Just saying it'll make a big improvement for a Fox in turns and helps add weight to the rear for better weight distribution.
I understand. I'm just saying in my case, no offense, but a muscle car to me is just a 0-60 toy. I'm a die hard ford guy but I would never even try to make anything serious out of it. For pennies on the dollar I could build a 240sx or civic hatch that would outperform in road course and speed respectively. I just want it to be a better version of itself. Like I said, just a little romping here and there and that's it. I just like the sound and the low end power. I just want a real clean street car with a nice sound and a decent 0-60
Well I stand corrected. I guess I opened my mouth too soon. I pulled the fenders and bumper and found more damage than expected and yes, some rust. It's not bad but it's around the hinge and centered where the antenna wire goes in the pillar. Its just surface rust so I'm going to clean it up and ospho it. I'll probably cut a piece out and weld in a replacement to eliminate the antenna hole. I will be cleaning the cowl out and giving everything a good coat of ospho and paint. The core support was apparently ran up onto a curb or something bc it's beat to hell and raised up. The radiator hold downs are at about a 45* angle. I'm gonna hammer that down with a square drift and get it pretty close and coat it with ospho as well. The bumper bumper was damaged on the drivers side passed the mount so I'm gonna beat it back out decent and now that the fenders are off I'm seriously contemplating cleaning up the fender wells and filling some holes. Has anyone else made a new inner fender or a shroud for the air cleaner. I was thinking of leaving the inner fender out and making a shroud to keep water out of the air cleaner. I won't be able to drive this car very hard in the rain with lockers and 3.73 gears so I figured it would be fine. Any advice or opinions on this?
The air cleaner in the fender well is the stock location so you shouldn't need to fab up a cover for it so long as you have the fender splash guard/liner installed. I smoothed and tucked my engine bay you can check out my build thread for tips if you want. Also some people cut out the lower mangled radiator support and and weld in square stock in place of the old.
Well I was curious about deleting the splash shield because I want to roll the fenders and I would like the room for several reasons. Idk how other people go about it. I knew that ad the factory location but I thought the factory box held the cleaner on the inside but got its air from the outside. I couldn't remember. Either way it's still pretty nasty as it is and I would hate to make it worse. I like the square tubing idea. I'll have to kick that around tomorrow. I have lots of different sizes and thicknesses laying around. I read your build thread to about page 25 and said f&$% that! Lmao it's a good look but I like to keep mine drivable and the more I thought about it I don't like the idea of the components being more exposed to the elements. As it is I'm looking at trying to stuff what I can and just cleaning it up a lil bit. I just hate that bis mass of wires and I don't like the idea of all of it being around the solenoid. I'll shoot some pics and give yall a better report tomorrow night. May just go ahead with the lower core support. Seems like a lot better fix than just beating it out. It won't be seen but I like to make things better than before and fix problems where I can
Decided on doing a dyc plastidip job to make her decent until I'm ready to buy a new clip and tear it all down and do it right. I'm thinking matte white with a white pearl. I also like the idea of a flat silver with silver and black pearl. Either would of course have everything else blacked out. Black badging, Windows, and trim. Comments? I will probably end up going with the white/wp for the paint when I get to that point. It's a hell of a look. Obviously not a fox but you get the idea
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