Newb needing help on deciding what to do next

03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Hey guys I thought I would come here to get some advice on what to do to my car which is a 2003 GT 5 speed. Im hoping to sell my Yamaha Dirtbike and get $500 out of it to put towards the car. T
I already have some FRPP 3.73 Gears, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers ( I know they just make noise), Mach1 Grille Delete, a cold air intake, good street tires. Other than that I cant make up my mind what to get next I would prefer it be performance oriented, but I would like to lower the car as well too.
My speedometer isnt working correctly because I dont have a handheld tuner to calibrate the computer and its off by 5mph so I was thinkin about that but are ones like SCT any good? Sorry for all the questions but Im a newb and trying to learn.

These were the parts that I was thinkin about..
-Short throw shifter.
-Some DRs to improve my bad 1/4 times the best I have ran on the street tires was a 14.8 with the gears... (My drag racing skillz suck...) :nonono:
-Better exhaust setup?
-The SCT handheld tuner?

Im open to any suggestions or rants.:D

Ideally I would be happy gettin this car into the somewhere like 13.5/13/7's like another guy on a forum I frequent.
 
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Whats the mileage on your car, you need get the grunt work done over w/so you don't have to start replacing stuff when they break. Ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, Das basics. I spent $575 for replacing ball joints, hate to be made to spend the cash; no A arms made any more and its my only vehicle. Won't have to change ball joints and tie rods for another 100,000 miles. Whew! That set me back a couple of meals.
 
Whats the mileage on your car, you need get the grunt work done over w/so you don't have to start replacing stuff when they break. Ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, Das basics. I spent $575 for replacing ball joints, hate to be made to spend the cash; no A arms made any more and its my only vehicle. Won't have to change ball joints and tie rods for another 100,000 miles. Whew! That set me back a couple of meals.

The car has 86,000 miles on it now my average driving per year is around 8,000 to 10,000 miles a year I believe. So far the cars suspension hasnt given me any problems.

The SCT tuner sounds like a popular pick I will call the guys at AM and ask some questions about it. Thanks guys!
 
Some SubFrame Connectors full length :nice:

If you lookin to drag it? You got the bug :nice:

Oh yeah thanks for the idea about the SubFrames, I was thinkin about gettin them for whenever I get my car lowered... The big deal is I think I might lower it first cause my back shocks are worn out and need replacing, I dont want to buy stock ones then want to get the car lowered... Any suggestions on what shock combo works with H&R lowering springs?
Sorry for all the questions.
 
I got the Tokiko HP's (commonly called Tokiko blue's). I bought a set of 4 on e-bay a couple of years ago for only $200 brand new in-box. I think they are either identical to or very similar to the shocks/struts used on the '01 Bullitt Mustang. I happen to really like them. They handle much better than stock, and were a great buy considering the price I got them for.
 
I got the Tokiko HP's (commonly called Tokiko blue's). I bought a set of 4 on e-bay a couple of years ago for only $200 brand new in-box. I think they are either identical to or very similar to the shocks/struts used on the '01 Bullitt Mustang. I happen to really like them. They handle much better than stock, and were a great buy considering the price I got them for.

Awesome thanks for the info I really appreciate it, that would def fit my budget for shocks! Now all I need to do is sell that dang dirtbike lol....
 
get the sct, a short throw, then get your suspension done asap after that... normally id say suspension first but it would be nice for you to have a correct speedo

Would you happen to know since the computer isnt reading the gear correctly and causing the speedometer to misread would it make the odometer missread as well? The only reason I ask is cause I dont want the car to appear to have more mileage than it actually does lol.

More seat time if you want to improve your time. I would do SFCs before putting any type of DR on the car.

Definitely want to go more often but the track is about 45 miles away and sometimes the lines are really long, but its worth it versus racing on the street..
 
I'm going to echo what others have said here. Go with the SCT and subframe connectors. I'm partial to Maximum Motorsports, as they really tightened up my car and were affordable and easy to install.

Also, if you want to go fast in the quarter, practice. I was able to go 13.6 with just a catted x-pipe, weld-in flowmasters (from the previous owner), and an SCT 93 octane tune. And that was with an automatic trans. Since you have a 5-speed, it'll take significantly longer until you find a good launch technique.
 
Alright thanks guys again for the help.

I'm going to echo what others have said here. Go with the SCT and subframe connectors. I'm partial to Maximum Motorsports, as they really tightened up my car and were affordable and easy to install.

Also, if you want to go fast in the quarter, practice. I was able to go 13.6 with just a catted x-pipe, weld-in flowmasters (from the previous owner), and an SCT 93 octane tune. And that was with an automatic trans. Since you have a 5-speed, it'll take significantly longer until you find a good launch technique.

Im pretty set on the SCT so I can tune the speedometer and odo correctly, the subframes I imagine would help a lot to strengthen the car up for hard launches.

Ya it will throw the odo off since it reads by the stock final drive ratio, so by changing that you change the mileage that's actually being put on the car versus what the odo reads

ahh ok well for some reason the drive to my college is 15 miles and I tested it a long time ago when I first got the gears installed and it got what it used to get when it was stock so I was thinkin it was workin just fine but I was just wanting to ask yall to find out the truth..
 
I'm in agreement with everyone else here about the mods. You should have the mods to get those times, it's just gonna take some practice. Save some of your money for some test-n-tunes.

About tires, the Nitto NT555 is an EXCELLENT street tire. I've cut 2.0x 60's on the 255/40-17 size with the stock stall (which is what was holding me back, not the tire), and I know of people who have cut 1.8x 60's with the 275 width and a 5 speed. They last great (mine have 20,000 miles, and I expect to get 20,000 more) and do great in the rain.
 
I'm in agreement with everyone else here about the mods. You should have the mods to get those times, it's just gonna take some practice. Save some of your money for some test-n-tunes.

About tires, the Nitto NT555 is an EXCELLENT street tire. I've cut 2.0x 60's on the 255/40-17 size with the stock stall (which is what was holding me back, not the tire), and I know of people who have cut 1.8x 60's with the 275 width and a 5 speed. They last great (mine have 20,000 miles, and I expect to get 20,000 more) and do great in the rain.

Oh yeah the tires are awesome on the street and when it rains the grip is good. The prob I think for me at the track I go to they spray the entrance of the track full of water for the burnouts and its hard to get around it all. I tried lauching at 3000rpms but they would just spin, I tried 2500rpms and they hooked but my 60ft times sucked...

Here are my best times so far...

R/T-.050
60'-2.304
330- .000
1/8- 9.499
MPH- 76.68
1000- 12.268
1/4- 14.606
MPH- 95.28

R/T- .327
60'- 2.393
330- 6.427
1/8- 9.706
MPH- 75.69
1000- 12.506
1/4- 14.851
MPH- 95.83

R/T- .152
60'- 2.278
330- 6.381
1/8- 9.742
MPH- 75.17
1000- 12.549
1/4- 14.921
MPH- 95.57