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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

Newb needing help on deciding what to do next

  • Thread starter Thread starter 03_TrueBlue_GT
  • Start date Start date Jun 17, 2010
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03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Jun 17, 2010
#1
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #1
Hey guys I thought I would come here to get some advice on what to do to my car which is a 2003 GT 5 speed. Im hoping to sell my Yamaha Dirtbike and get $500 out of it to put towards the car. T
I already have some FRPP 3.73 Gears, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers ( I know they just make noise), Mach1 Grille Delete, a cold air intake, good street tires. Other than that I cant make up my mind what to get next I would prefer it be performance oriented, but I would like to lower the car as well too.
My speedometer isnt working correctly because I dont have a handheld tuner to calibrate the computer and its off by 5mph so I was thinkin about that but are ones like SCT any good? Sorry for all the questions but Im a newb and trying to learn.

These were the parts that I was thinkin about..
-Short throw shifter.
-Some DRs to improve my bad 1/4 times the best I have ran on the street tires was a 14.8 with the gears... (My drag racing skillz suck...)
-Better exhaust setup?
-The SCT handheld tuner?

Im open to any suggestions or rants.

Ideally I would be happy gettin this car into the somewhere like 13.5/13/7's like another guy on a forum I frequent.
 
D

Deleted member 38176

Jun 17, 2010
#2
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #2
Get the SCT
 

RedDaemon

10 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
3,470
9
108
Atlanta, GA
Jun 17, 2010
#3
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #3
Nightfire said:
Get the SCT
Click to expand...

+1

kinda regret not doing it myself.
 

trombonedemon

Well-Known Member
Jun 25, 2009
1,962
39
59
U.S.A, U.S.A., U.S.A.!
Jun 17, 2010
#4
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #4
Whats the mileage on your car, you need get the grunt work done over w/so you don't have to start replacing stuff when they break. Ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, Das basics. I spent $575 for replacing ball joints, hate to be made to spend the cash; no A arms made any more and its my only vehicle. Won't have to change ball joints and tie rods for another 100,000 miles. Whew! That set me back a couple of meals.
 

crazystang25

Member
Jan 25, 2009
492
0
16
Jun 17, 2010
#5
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #5
SCT or diqblosport will work. They will be about the same performance wise.
 

03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Jun 17, 2010
#6
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #6
trombonedemon said:
Whats the mileage on your car, you need get the grunt work done over w/so you don't have to start replacing stuff when they break. Ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, Das basics. I spent $575 for replacing ball joints, hate to be made to spend the cash; no A arms made any more and its my only vehicle. Won't have to change ball joints and tie rods for another 100,000 miles. Whew! That set me back a couple of meals.
Click to expand...

The car has 86,000 miles on it now my average driving per year is around 8,000 to 10,000 miles a year I believe. So far the cars suspension hasnt given me any problems.

The SCT tuner sounds like a popular pick I will call the guys at AM and ask some questions about it. Thanks guys!
 

fshawn50

Member
Apr 4, 2007
161
7
18
Houston, TX.
Jun 17, 2010
#7
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #7
Some SubFrame Connectors full length

If you lookin to drag it? You got the bug
 

03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Jun 21, 2010
#8
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #8
fshawn50 said:
Some SubFrame Connectors full length

If you lookin to drag it? You got the bug
Click to expand...

Oh yeah thanks for the idea about the SubFrames, I was thinkin about gettin them for whenever I get my car lowered... The big deal is I think I might lower it first cause my back shocks are worn out and need replacing, I dont want to buy stock ones then want to get the car lowered... Any suggestions on what shock combo works with H&R lowering springs?
Sorry for all the questions.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Jun 21, 2010
#9
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #9
I got the Tokiko HP's (commonly called Tokiko blue's). I bought a set of 4 on e-bay a couple of years ago for only $200 brand new in-box. I think they are either identical to or very similar to the shocks/struts used on the '01 Bullitt Mustang. I happen to really like them. They handle much better than stock, and were a great buy considering the price I got them for.
 

03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Jun 21, 2010
#10
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #10
N8Dogg98 said:
I got the Tokiko HP's (commonly called Tokiko blue's). I bought a set of 4 on e-bay a couple of years ago for only $200 brand new in-box. I think they are either identical to or very similar to the shocks/struts used on the '01 Bullitt Mustang. I happen to really like them. They handle much better than stock, and were a great buy considering the price I got them for.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks for the info I really appreciate it, that would def fit my budget for shocks! Now all I need to do is sell that dang dirtbike lol....
 

Kornnut

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
1,999
48
108
Tulsa
Jun 21, 2010
#11
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #11
More seat time if you want to improve your time. I would do SFCs before putting any type of DR on the car.
 

Night Shifter

Well-Known Member
Dec 24, 2005
1,710
27
59
Daytona
Jun 21, 2010
#12
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #12
get the sct, a short throw, then get your suspension done asap after that... normally id say suspension first but it would be nice for you to have a correct speedo
 

03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Jun 21, 2010
#13
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #13
Night Shifter said:
get the sct, a short throw, then get your suspension done asap after that... normally id say suspension first but it would be nice for you to have a correct speedo
Click to expand...

Would you happen to know since the computer isnt reading the gear correctly and causing the speedometer to misread would it make the odometer missread as well? The only reason I ask is cause I dont want the car to appear to have more mileage than it actually does lol.

More seat time if you want to improve your time. I would do SFCs before putting any type of DR on the car.
Click to expand...

Definitely want to go more often but the track is about 45 miles away and sometimes the lines are really long, but its worth it versus racing on the street..
 

Night Shifter

Well-Known Member
Dec 24, 2005
1,710
27
59
Daytona
Jun 21, 2010
#14
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #14
im pretty sure it throw the odometer off as well
 

crazystang25

Member
Jan 25, 2009
492
0
16
Jun 21, 2010
#15
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #15
Ya it will throw the odo off since it reads by the stock final drive ratio, so by changing that you change the mileage that's actually being put on the car versus what the odo reads.
 

Flghtmstr1

Member
Mar 31, 2005
572
4
19
Springfield, PA
Jun 21, 2010
#16
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #16
I'm going to echo what others have said here. Go with the SCT and subframe connectors. I'm partial to Maximum Motorsports, as they really tightened up my car and were affordable and easy to install.

Also, if you want to go fast in the quarter, practice. I was able to go 13.6 with just a catted x-pipe, weld-in flowmasters (from the previous owner), and an SCT 93 octane tune. And that was with an automatic trans. Since you have a 5-speed, it'll take significantly longer until you find a good launch technique.
 

03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Jun 22, 2010
#17
  • Jun 22, 2010
  • #17
Alright thanks guys again for the help.

I'm going to echo what others have said here. Go with the SCT and subframe connectors. I'm partial to Maximum Motorsports, as they really tightened up my car and were affordable and easy to install.

Also, if you want to go fast in the quarter, practice. I was able to go 13.6 with just a catted x-pipe, weld-in flowmasters (from the previous owner), and an SCT 93 octane tune. And that was with an automatic trans. Since you have a 5-speed, it'll take significantly longer until you find a good launch technique.
Click to expand...

Im pretty set on the SCT so I can tune the speedometer and odo correctly, the subframes I imagine would help a lot to strengthen the car up for hard launches.

Ya it will throw the odo off since it reads by the stock final drive ratio, so by changing that you change the mileage that's actually being put on the car versus what the odo reads
Click to expand...

ahh ok well for some reason the drive to my college is 15 miles and I tested it a long time ago when I first got the gears installed and it got what it used to get when it was stock so I was thinkin it was workin just fine but I was just wanting to ask yall to find out the truth..
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Jun 22, 2010
#18
  • Jun 22, 2010
  • #18
I'm in agreement with everyone else here about the mods. You should have the mods to get those times, it's just gonna take some practice. Save some of your money for some test-n-tunes.

About tires, the Nitto NT555 is an EXCELLENT street tire. I've cut 2.0x 60's on the 255/40-17 size with the stock stall (which is what was holding me back, not the tire), and I know of people who have cut 1.8x 60's with the 275 width and a 5 speed. They last great (mine have 20,000 miles, and I expect to get 20,000 more) and do great in the rain.
 

03_TrueBlue_GT

Active Member
May 5, 2010
810
41
29
Houston, Tx
Jun 22, 2010
#19
  • Jun 22, 2010
  • #19
sneaky98gt said:
I'm in agreement with everyone else here about the mods. You should have the mods to get those times, it's just gonna take some practice. Save some of your money for some test-n-tunes.

About tires, the Nitto NT555 is an EXCELLENT street tire. I've cut 2.0x 60's on the 255/40-17 size with the stock stall (which is what was holding me back, not the tire), and I know of people who have cut 1.8x 60's with the 275 width and a 5 speed. They last great (mine have 20,000 miles, and I expect to get 20,000 more) and do great in the rain.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah the tires are awesome on the street and when it rains the grip is good. The prob I think for me at the track I go to they spray the entrance of the track full of water for the burnouts and its hard to get around it all. I tried lauching at 3000rpms but they would just spin, I tried 2500rpms and they hooked but my 60ft times sucked...

Here are my best times so far...

R/T-.050
60'-2.304
330- .000
1/8- 9.499
MPH- 76.68
1000- 12.268
1/4- 14.606
MPH- 95.28

R/T- .327
60'- 2.393
330- 6.427
1/8- 9.706
MPH- 75.69
1000- 12.506
1/4- 14.851
MPH- 95.83

R/T- .152
60'- 2.278
330- 6.381
1/8- 9.742
MPH- 75.17
1000- 12.549
1/4- 14.921
MPH- 95.57
 
N

ninjastang125

New Member
Nov 1, 2008
591
2
0
maryland
Jun 22, 2010
#20
  • Jun 22, 2010
  • #20
Are you shifting into 5th before you cross the traps? Those mph look a bit low for a p.i. car.
 
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