New to the posting on this site. I have been reading and learning for a few months now and I'm ready to start a build for my 1994 Cobra. Gonna start with top end job. Previous owner claimed that the bottom end has been rebuilt. If that is not the case, then I'm planning on pulling the whole thing and doing a total rebuild. Going to go with the Trick Flow top end kit minus the upper and lower intake. I'm sure I will be on asking questions so I thought I would post a couple of pics of my starting point. It will be a slow process as I have never done this before and I have limited free time, but that shouldn't stop me.....right??
Newbie Build
- Thread starter 94 Cob
- Start date
Sounds like fun, are you doing the blower too? The Cobra intake is actually pretty decent. If you are doing the Trick Flow 170cc heads, and Trick Flow 1 cam, you aren't talking a whole lot of difference between the Trick Flow intake and the stock Cobra upper. If you smooth out the runners in the Cobra lower, it's probably about the same.
Kurt
Kurt
Thanks for the input. I had the blower rebuilt a couple of months ago. It's aV1 so it still sounds like rocks in a blender. I had read that the cobra intake was pretty good. That will save me some dough. I went ahead and ordered the 170 heads today. Summitt has them on sale until tomorrow. I'll order everything else once I get in there and see what needs replacing, but I figured I would go ahead and save some money on the heads.
Thanks,
Rob
Thanks,
Rob
With the blower, the intake won't be an issue whatsoever. Might want to hunt around for a more blower friendly cam then the Trick Flow 1 though. It's not that bad of a cam, but given the cost of camshafts, a more spot on cam would really optimize the setup.
Kurt
Kurt
Started tear down today and of course I have a couple of questions.
1. How do you get the fuel lines off? I bought one of those quick disconnect hand tools, but I couldn't figure out how it works. It's the one that sorta looks like pliers and has multiple disconnect sizes.
2. I have a fuel pressure gauge sender where the schrader valve would normally be. I took off the sender and it did not relieve any pressure. At least nothing came out. Does that mean that there is no pressure in the system?
Your assistance is much appreciated!
1. How do you get the fuel lines off? I bought one of those quick disconnect hand tools, but I couldn't figure out how it works. It's the one that sorta looks like pliers and has multiple disconnect sizes.
2. I have a fuel pressure gauge sender where the schrader valve would normally be. I took off the sender and it did not relieve any pressure. At least nothing came out. Does that mean that there is no pressure in the system?
Your assistance is much appreciated!
Use this type.... Yellow for one line, Green the other, these are for Fords....you install over the line and push up into the line...it'll release a clip, then you pull to remove by kinda rotating/pulling... If they never been off it may take a moment.
Have a rag handy to suck up the excess fuel the lines are holding.
I also lube the oring's with Vaseline on re-assy... makes it easy the next time.
If you didnt get fuel, then dont worry...It bleeds off pressure with time.
View attachment 202759
Have a rag handy to suck up the excess fuel the lines are holding.
I also lube the oring's with Vaseline on re-assy... makes it easy the next time.
If you didnt get fuel, then dont worry...It bleeds off pressure with time.
View attachment 202759
KamiKaziDK
Member
Right now I'm thinking about keeping them, unless I need to raise more funds as I get into this...then I may sell them, but I would like to keep all the orginal parts if possible in case I want to go back to stock.
KamiKaziDK
Member
Cool, always good idea if you think you might sell it in the future. As for those ac/fuel line tools, sometimes you have to put a little muscle into them to get them to pop into the lines before you can pull them apart, but they should slide in there, just push harder
Made some progress today! One head is off and only have a little bit off work to do before the other one is off. I'm finding that the clips on all the Electrical connections are crap. I think I broke five so far.
Pistons look real good to me. I can still see the cross etching in the cylinders. It makes me believe that it has been rebuilt at some point, but the block is all rusted and I haven't found any evidence off gasket sealer so It's sending me mixed messages. I will messure the bore, but it hard to believe that it looks that good at 120K.
Pistons look real good to me. I can still see the cross etching in the cylinders. It makes me believe that it has been rebuilt at some point, but the block is all rusted and I haven't found any evidence off gasket sealer so It's sending me mixed messages. I will messure the bore, but it hard to believe that it looks that good at 120K.
Made some progress today! One head is off and only have a little bit off work to do before the other one is off. I'm finding that the clips on all the Electrical connections are crap. I think I broke five so far.
Pistons look real good to me. I can still see the cross etching in the cylinders. It makes me believe that it has been rebuilt at some point, but the block is all rusted and I haven't found any evidence off gasket sealer so It's sending me mixed messages. I will messure the bore, but it hard to believe that it looks that good at 120K.
Pictures didn't work.
Yeah, those clips get brittle after awhile. I don't think any of mine still have the snap on them.
Kurt
Kurt
KamiKaziDK
Member
don't worry about the clips, anyone who's done any engine work on here has broken 85% of the clips they touched and it hasn't made a difference. As for the rust, don't think twice about that either, one little splash up from the road can cause that, the outer block and heads will rust easy.
The block has rust on it when it's sitting at the dealer to be sold. May not have been rebuilt. The Ford 302 is known for keeping a good hone. In stock form it doesn't make enough power to wear itself out.
Kurt
Kurt
Yeah, definately a good time go replace the lifters. The orginal Ford ones seem to work great. I think the set is $118 on Jegs and Summit.
Kurt
Kurt
blksn955.o
Founding Member
FMS lifters is what I have and if your not pulling the shortblock its a good idea like said. Also check your valvetrain geo. to make sure you wear pattern is good to go and the correct PR is used.
You might want to send your lower to get ported by Tmoss. Very solid work and will help with back pressure a little. Tmoss is a very well respected member and all around good guy to deal with...he has helped me a few times.
You might want to send your lower to get ported by Tmoss. Very solid work and will help with back pressure a little. Tmoss is a very well respected member and all around good guy to deal with...he has helped me a few times.
OK, So I'm ready to pull the block after seeing the condition of the right bank. Can I unbolt the bell housing from the block and pull it or do I need to take the transmission out? Also, is it easier to remove the motor mounts from the block or do I need to remove the big bolts from the braces? Just trying to figure out what I need to do before I rent the picker. I don't want to get screwed by having to rent it for very long.
As always your advice is sincerly appreciated,
Rob
As always your advice is sincerly appreciated,
Rob
