Newbie Help Pls
- Thread starter FearTheTube
- Start date
- Feb 6, 2006
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68converted
Member
Fear,
You will always get the "do it this way" or "do it that way" when you post but you have the right idea. I post the things I am planning to get a diff. angle on my ideas. The folks on this forum are awesome, and they have a great deal to offer. As for the original question, I went to the junk yard yesterday and found about 10 I6 Fords with two barrel carbs. Two of them looked new. I can pick one up for you if you would like. That will "get you by" until you can make some decisions. Let me know if you want some help with this.
David
You will always get the "do it this way" or "do it that way" when you post but you have the right idea. I post the things I am planning to get a diff. angle on my ideas. The folks on this forum are awesome, and they have a great deal to offer. As for the original question, I went to the junk yard yesterday and found about 10 I6 Fords with two barrel carbs. Two of them looked new. I can pick one up for you if you would like. That will "get you by" until you can make some decisions. Let me know if you want some help with this.
David
- Feb 6, 2006
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thanks for the offer, but i have a gut feeling that i'm gonna have to tear that engine apart before i can get it working. i'm gonna take a look at the 302 i found. i was told that it still runs and is in good shape. if it's good enough i'm gonna buy it and drop it in. i really dont want to deal with that straight 6. i feel robbed that i bought it with that. mustang and 6 cyl just dont go together in my opinion.
Before you go and buy the motor can you post the info off the data plate and the vin. At the very least is the car a 4 or 5 lug ? I'm always scepticle when people say that it use to be a v8 and now an i6 is in there. You don't wana put a v8 in there and then find out you need to convert the rest of the stuff too. If you gota swap the suspension and what not, its easier when the motor is out. Also, the reason I said to get the motor out of the boneyard is because you can typically get the matching trans. You are going to need a different trans because that i6 trans isn't going to hold up behind a v8.
68converted
Member
I forgot to post that the cost of that motor for a pre 89 is crazy. I got my '91 engine and trans (complete) with all the electronics and harnesses for $650. And, the car only had 39,000 miles on it. Keep looking. You can find a ton of stuff out there for little $$ if you don't get too anxious. I spent about 3 weeks looking and calling salvage yards every couple of days. I ended up getting it from the first place I called on the first day, and they actually called me to know if they should hold it for me. If you have a pickup handy, you can drive across state lines if needed. Look for a deal because it is out there.
Platonic Solid
Founding Member
Sounds to me like you need to sit down and make a serious restoration plan that includes a realistic financial plan. At the very least, you should analyze and repair the rust problems before spending money on mechanical components. You could spend thousands on mechanical parts only to come to the realization that the rust is so severe that it’s not worth the parts and labor to repair. What's your goal, desired financial commitment and timeline?FearTheTube said:
- Feb 6, 2006
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ok i checked the info off the data plate on FoMoCo. that's how i knew it was a v8 originally. i'll get the info when i go back to the body shop to work on the car. i'm pretty sure that the tranny is the original that came with the car, so i shouldnt have much of a problem with that.
i should probably clarify the rust situation. i didnt really word that statement right. what i meant to say is that there are a lot of spots where rust is showing through and bubbling the paint. there are what i consider a lot of rust spots that have eaten through in the floor pannel, and the trunk floor pannel. it's enough to where i'm gonna replace the trunk floor pannel and really considering replacing the whole floor pannel because it looks like quite a lot of patching. the rest of the rust i wont know for sure until i get it all sanded down. that's my current project for this weekend. i got my camera charged up, and i'll take some pics and get all the data plate info up by monday.
i should probably clarify the rust situation. i didnt really word that statement right. what i meant to say is that there are a lot of spots where rust is showing through and bubbling the paint. there are what i consider a lot of rust spots that have eaten through in the floor pannel, and the trunk floor pannel. it's enough to where i'm gonna replace the trunk floor pannel and really considering replacing the whole floor pannel because it looks like quite a lot of patching. the rest of the rust i wont know for sure until i get it all sanded down. that's my current project for this weekend. i got my camera charged up, and i'll take some pics and get all the data plate info up by monday.
- Feb 6, 2006
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ok here is the info off the data plate:
Body - 65A
Color - M
Trim - 22
Date - 15C
DSO - 21
Axle - 6
Trans - 6
Vehicle Warranty # - 6T07C152591
i also got the VIN off the car that i believe the 302 i'm looking at is from. not sure if it's right because the place was closed, but they didnt lock the gate. anyways this is the VIN: 1FABP28M1FF236661.
i should have the pics of the car up soon. i need to install my camera software again first.
Body - 65A
Color - M
Trim - 22
Date - 15C
DSO - 21
Axle - 6
Trans - 6
Vehicle Warranty # - 6T07C152591
i also got the VIN off the car that i believe the 302 i'm looking at is from. not sure if it's right because the place was closed, but they didnt lock the gate. anyways this is the VIN: 1FABP28M1FF236661.
i should have the pics of the car up soon. i need to install my camera software again first.
- Feb 6, 2006
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ok now i'm having problems adding my photos to my garage. i keep getting this message:
FearTheTube, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.
FearTheTube, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.
Platonic Solid
Founding Member
I think there's a minimum post count you have to achieve before you can upload pics and/or the pics are too big. There are various other picture hosting services you can use: cardomain, photobucket, imageshack.FearTheTube said:
- Feb 6, 2006
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yeah i was just curious about why it wouldnt let me. i posted them on yahoo. here's the address: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ss_krellin/album?.dir=/2f7e
Platonic Solid
Founding Member
From your pictures, it looks like your cowl is pretty rusted out. Fortunately it has an exterior cowl vent cover to reduce the amount of water getting in there. There's quite a few threads on that repair on Stangnet.
How do the torque boxes and frame rails look? Assuming they're OK, what's your goal?
A. Get it on the road as soon as possible regarless of rust issues.
B. Be able to drive it around the parking lot while doing body work and mechanical upgrades.
C. Commit lots of time and money over the next 4 - 6 Months to build a reliable daily driver.
D. Complete tear down restoration
How do the torque boxes and frame rails look? Assuming they're OK, what's your goal?
A. Get it on the road as soon as possible regarless of rust issues.
B. Be able to drive it around the parking lot while doing body work and mechanical upgrades.
C. Commit lots of time and money over the next 4 - 6 Months to build a reliable daily driver.
D. Complete tear down restoration
- Feb 6, 2006
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what and where are the torque boxes. keep in mind this is my first car project and i'm learining as i go. i assume that you mean the two i-beams on that make up the frame when you say frame rails. those look good. currently i'm looking at a new engine for it and i'm having a guy come down on wed to look at it to give me an estimate for sand blasting and priming. i saw some of the work he did on a trans am and it was a damn good job.
right now my goal is to get it looking good and become a reliable daily/weekend driver. i will probably only drive it on special trips, like dates maybe and on the weekends. it depends on a lot of things. right now i just want to get it running and repair/replace the rust. then i'll start working on the interior, and finally get it painted. i want to paint it acapulco metallic blue. i just have to see if i can find interior leather that matches that color.
right now my goal is to get it looking good and become a reliable daily/weekend driver. i will probably only drive it on special trips, like dates maybe and on the weekends. it depends on a lot of things. right now i just want to get it running and repair/replace the rust. then i'll start working on the interior, and finally get it painted. i want to paint it acapulco metallic blue. i just have to see if i can find interior leather that matches that color.
Platonic Solid
Founding Member
A picture is worth a 1,000 words:
Pictures and desciptions from www.Mustangsunlimited.com
View attachment 485585 FRAME RAIL,REAR 65/68 RH (COMPLETE)
This is a complete rear frame rail, from the torque box back to the rear of the car.
--------------------------
FRAME RAIL FRONT LH 2-PIECES 65/70
The frame section that travels from the firewall to the radiator support. Both the flat Outer Section & the Inner Box, once welded together it will form a box.
--------------------------
View attachment 485589 TORQUE BOX,REAR 65/68 LH
View attachment 485591 TORQUE BOX,REAR 65/68 RH
This is the front 14" of the rear frame rail and the torque box. It attaches under the rear seat and includes the section where the front of the leaf spring attaches.
--------------------------
View attachment 485592 TORQUE BOX FRONT LH 65/70 COUPE/FASTBACK
View attachment 485593 TORQUE BOX FRONT RH 65/70 COUPE/FASTBACK
This is the 3-sided section of the frame commonly called the torque box, it is visible to the rear of each front wheel.
---------------------------
Finally, the best investment you can make in your car is the "Shop Manual":
Pictures and desciptions from www.Mustangsunlimited.com
View attachment 485585 FRAME RAIL,REAR 65/68 RH (COMPLETE)
This is a complete rear frame rail, from the torque box back to the rear of the car.
--------------------------
The frame section that travels from the firewall to the radiator support. Both the flat Outer Section & the Inner Box, once welded together it will form a box.
--------------------------
View attachment 485589 TORQUE BOX,REAR 65/68 LH
View attachment 485591 TORQUE BOX,REAR 65/68 RH
This is the front 14" of the rear frame rail and the torque box. It attaches under the rear seat and includes the section where the front of the leaf spring attaches.
--------------------------
View attachment 485592 TORQUE BOX FRONT LH 65/70 COUPE/FASTBACK
View attachment 485593 TORQUE BOX FRONT RH 65/70 COUPE/FASTBACK
This is the 3-sided section of the frame commonly called the torque box, it is visible to the rear of each front wheel.
---------------------------
Finally, the best investment you can make in your car is the "Shop Manual":
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- Feb 6, 2006
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well it looks like i'm getting that engine i posted about. it's from a 5-speed manual 85 gt. is there some sort of conversion to change it to an automatic, or am i just screwed.
currently i'm working on stripping out the interior so i can have a guy sand blast and prime the car. i need to get as much work done before june as i can. hand sanding it is taking me too long, and this will give me a chance to get the new engine in.
currently i'm working on stripping out the interior so i can have a guy sand blast and prime the car. i need to get as much work done before june as i can. hand sanding it is taking me too long, and this will give me a chance to get the new engine in.
If you want to hook up an automatic to it then you need to tell us which automatic you are going to use.
To start with, you will need to remove the piolet bearing in the end of the crank snout at the rear of the motor. You will also need to change the flywheel to a flexplate. To find out which flexplate you need tell use which trans you are planing on using.
To start with, you will need to remove the piolet bearing in the end of the crank snout at the rear of the motor. You will also need to change the flywheel to a flexplate. To find out which flexplate you need tell use which trans you are planing on using.
- Feb 6, 2006
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ok i've run into some problems. i've gotta gut the car so i can get it sand blasted, and i cant get the seats out. i can only get to 2 of the bolts and they are square headed. they are really in there too. i dont have anything that can get to them. i've gotta get the seats out so i can tear up the carpet, and check the floor pan. anyone got any suggestions on how to get the bolts out?
some updates on the car. looks like i'm going to have to replace the quarter pannels, fenders, and trunk lid along with my trunk floor pan and firewall. i've put money down on the 302 i found at the junkyard. i'm gonna attempt to put it in after i get the car sand blasted. as for the tranny, what would you guys suggest for a 302? i'm wanting to go automatic. my daily driver is a manual and it drives me a little crazy.
i feel like i'm leaving something out, but i'll post it later if i remember. cant wait for some input.
some updates on the car. looks like i'm going to have to replace the quarter pannels, fenders, and trunk lid along with my trunk floor pan and firewall. i've put money down on the 302 i found at the junkyard. i'm gonna attempt to put it in after i get the car sand blasted. as for the tranny, what would you guys suggest for a 302? i'm wanting to go automatic. my daily driver is a manual and it drives me a little crazy.
i feel like i'm leaving something out, but i'll post it later if i remember. cant wait for some input.
- Feb 6, 2006
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oh yeah about the tranny. i'm looking for something that i can get on a budget, and will be able to stand up to a little bit of power for when i decide to start beefing up the engine. granted that's a good long while away. i'd just like to have it ready, so that's one more part i wont have to replace.
Because you are using a late model engine, the imballance on the flexplate for an automatic will need to be 50oz. If you want to use a late model transmission and get that extra overdrive gear, then it will cost you a little bit more over all but I think its worth it in the long run. Otherwise you could provably just put a C4 trans in it. A C4 is a 3 speed automatic and they can be built to take abuse quite easily.
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