Next round of mods, need blower guys help.

Actually I think I need the 2.6, I dont think the 2.8H will fit under my strut tower brace :(

Although if I do get the 2.8 I could sell my plenum and t-body :shrug:

But I really want to keep my strut tower brace so I guess I have to stay with the smaller unit.
 
Am I gonna need axle shafts? Wheres a good place for them?

At regular prices it looks like it will run me $5150 for all the fuel stuff and the supercharger. I am also gonna dress up the engine and do a full 3" exhaust so that will add another $1400.
Just trying to get a total price idea :shrug:
 
is there not a "good" one out there?
The stock Cobra crank "Is" a "Good One". It just needs the stock cage support and it will last.

Ahhhh. That was gonna be my next question cause i was there that night the dude with the yellow Cobra broke his :notnice: So I can spool it to 18-19 without changing the crank pully? That would be cool. At the time I do all this I also want to get nice blue/silver idler pullies and the blue valve covers with the FRPP COP covers like EPIK has on his car. I also wana do the aluminum expansion tank and power steering tank. If I could find a brushed cover for the fuse box and have an intake pipe that would fit under the strut tower brace and fit with the Steeda box then my engine compartment would be exactly how I want it. :drool:

So Kevin, ya wana come down and help with the blower and valve cover install when I get it all? :D Ill by your favorite beer. :cheers:
Sure. We can make it a weekend when you are ready. I'll see if I can get Erik to come help as well. :nice:

Yeah, that's right. You were there the night Foofinator broke his crank. He had the 3.4 Whipple with an aftermarket lower and built motor and it still broke.

You can easily make your boost levels with the stock crank pulley. If your wanting to keep the strut tower brace, then just get the Whipple 2.3. Erik has a MM strut tower brace on his car and it makes 650 RWHP on 100 octane with just a 2.8" upper only. That's what I would go with before the 2.6 KB.

Okay Kevin, can you give me a list and prices as well as where to get the blower/pumps/hat/injectors/lines/drivers etc etc. Thanks mang!
I will put you a list tomorrow. Getting ready to go to sleep now. :sleep:

Actually I think I need the 2.6, I dont think the 2.8H will fit under my strut tower brace :(

Although if I do get the 2.8 I could sell my plenum and t-body :shrug:

But I really want to keep my strut tower brace so I guess I have to stay with the smaller unit.
Get the Whipple 2.3 from Tousley Ford for $3109 shipped and don't look back! :nice:

Am I gonna need axle shafts? Wheres a good place for them?

At regular prices it looks like it will run me $5150 for all the fuel stuff and the supercharger. I am also gonna dress up the engine and do a full 3" exhaust so that will add another $1400.
Just trying to get a total price idea :shrug:
Save your money on the axle shafts. Just get the Billetflow Diff Brace and IRS brace, along with the front bushings and you will be just fine. All the aftermarket ones are junk.

Also, save the $$$ on the 3" exhaust. It won't really net you any HP.
 
I have the diff brace but never heard of the IRS brace. I need new derlin bushings (are thoes the ones above the pumpkin?) cause when I removed them to install the diff cover brace I saw they were eaten up a bit from movement so I have a clunk in the rear from the diff moving a bit. I guess I should get all the remaining IRS stuff. Since I just have the brace, springs, shocks then what else should I get so I dont hurt it?

The exhaust I am getting cause my Flowmasters are old and beat up. My tips have pits and are scratched. Also the 3" has a slightly deeper tone. I also want the Pro Chamber so I can get a deeper tone as well. Its not an HP thing, its a sound thing. Also since my car has the dark theme to it I like the black pipes on the MAC system :nice:
 
I guess that depends on your interpretation of "overly complex". One mans complexity is anothers attention to detail. Its certainly got a lot more parts than a stock Cobra blower or Twin Screw swap, but its no more complex than any twin turbo instal. :shrug:

Complex. Meaning it has more parts then it needs to have. Twin charging is not something new, it has been around for ages and there are reasons why it's not common. It's more expensive, it's more complex, and it has more moving parts that can fail. It becomes a hassle to trouble shoot, it's a hassle to tune, and it really isn't any better then doing twins/single/ or just a blower.



Does that scare you? Two turbo's and a blower? FYI, when combined all in one system, the blower and turbo RPM is actually lower than they would be if installed as single power adders on their own. That's the entire point of the system. You don't have to spin each power adder drastically in order to move airflow and presurize the system.

Do you have a chip on your shoulder because I disagree with your opinion? Nothing about this "scares" me. Have you built a twin charged system? Do you have first hand expirience with it? Or are you (likely) drinking someone elses Kool-Aid?


I'll assume you're talking about discharge tempuratures? If so....you consider 120-deg discharge temps on back to back runs and an average of about 100-110-deg a lot of heat? And that's with the system pullied and spun making 1,188 rwhp and 1,015rwtq. You can bet discharge temps would be lower as blower and turbo RMP are slower. Hell, I'm putting out 170-deg with my overspun Eaton M90S and I'm not hardly making 1/3 the power!

You would assume wrong. I was speaking of under hood temperatures and heat soak. Having the blower and the turbo(s) both is going to increase under hoot temperatures which is aweful for boosted cars.

Yeah cool you have a Heaton M90. I had a 95 S/C way back. I've had many boosted cars, both turbo and S/C. Plus I tune, so I have expirience with boost.


First off, I stated that the kit was over 1000hp capable and adjustable for different power levels...not that bolting it on saddles you with 1000hp right off the bat.

Either way, why is it that you can't believe 1000hp can't have street manners...is it because you refuse to aknowledge as much?

How many 1k+ HP cars have you driven/rode in? Closest I got to was 800 to the wheels in a TT Challenger, and it was obnoxious. Could you street it? Of course but to make it sound like it's me driving my 300whp GT down the street is rediculous.

What exactly do you define as street manners? The compound kit has as good a street manners as a hard spun twin screw and much, much better street manners than a large single turbo. What about instant and controlable torque production, a smooth linear power curve

Are we looking at the same dyno graphs here? The first one has been smoothed out a ton and the 2nd one doesn't remotely come close to being linear.