Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread

Yeah, so I want nothing to do with the tuning aspect. It’s why I chose Micro over Megasquirt. Once he has it dialed in I plan to leave it and just drive the car. I can already tell it’ll be pretty quick. Good enough for a driver. I have no real need for that.
Just so you know, " livin n the past" .......I'm copying, and saving every statement you make as to how you're " planning to leave it and just drive it".

I don't know for sure,...correct me if I'm wrong.....

But.....

Did this car come with a Cobra front bumper, a 347, and SN95 brakes when you got it?

You have by example, NOT left anything alone...( you have in fact made it much nicer) That said,..you're lying to yourself if you think that. ( you aren't fooling anybody else)
There will be a power adder in your future, just as surely as there is 7 more pounds of boost in mine.. Don't cheat yourself by limiting your options.

And they say the Bible was the greatest story ever told....:rolleyes:
 
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Just so you know, " livin n the past" .......I'm copying, and saving every statement you make as to how you're " planning to leave it and just drive it".

I don't know for sure,...correct me if I'm wrong.....

But.....

Did this car come with a Cobra front bumper, a 347, and SN95 brakes when you got it?

You have by example, NOT left anything alone...( you have in fact made it much nicer) That said,..you're lying to yourself if you think that. ( you aren't fooling anybody else)
There will be a power adder in your future, just as surely as there is 7 more pounds of boost in mine.. Don't cheat yourself by limiting your options.

And they say the Bible was the greatest story ever told....:rolleyes:

That’s all true and fair, but in the power department I am good to go. As you stated before, a power adder would require a different cam. I’m not about to tear into this engine again. My tinkering desires can be filled with restoring the interior, including dynamat all over. I have several projects left to do aside from the engine, like a transmission that I don’t need to worry about grenading.
 
It went well. He came back today, we sorted out cold starting. Drove around and did wide open pulls in every gear. Also worked on idle when cruising and then pushing in the clutch. The car pulls hard, and we aren’t yet done. It’s just safe for now. He plans to come back again to continue to optimize everything.
 
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First off, tuner says ditch the air silencer. I say ok.

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He is also trying to convince me to upgrade to a better intake and bigger throttle body. Says I am probably leaving 25-30 hp on the table by using my GT40 tubular/70 mm TB combo. Now I know I can sell the tubular and pick up a Trickflow and have money left over, but I like my tubular intake...

At the same time I am thinking about how I’ve been telling Mike that once this engine is dialed in I am not going any further. So then I start thinking I should optimize what I have.

Thoughts?
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Everybody has a trick flow intake, not everybody has a tubular intake and that 25-30 hp is likely to be in the upper rpm range and may sacrifice some torque down low where you need it on the street.
besides the tubular intake just looks so cool!
just my opinion and not based on any real world mechanical experience.
 
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Hellz no man leave that right there!!! The lower is the restriction on that manifold not the upper, If the lower has not been ported you should send it off to tmoss for porting. he will find you that 20hp your missing


I actually ported the lower already based off pictures a member sent me of their T Moss ported GT40 lower. I’m sure it could be done a bit better by a professional, but I think I did relatively well with it. Only the dyno will tell for sure though, which I will be doing in the next couple months.
 
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As to your previous intake thread, I'd have to say you do you. I woulda put the ITB's on my engine even if I KNEW I was restricting the engine power potential,..but in my case it's typically the opposite outcome with that type of induction.
 
Yeah, I think I’m going to leave it alone. I don’t have the time to deal with buying, selling and swapping sh*t out. My wife has been very considerate with the time I’ve been in the garage the last couple weeks. No sense in ruining that over 20 high RPM horsepower that my tach can’t even register. We’ll dial it in with the silencer and MAF removed.
 
Sounds like you have to pick whether it’s accurate up high, or down low, not really through full sweep. .

That's why I installed a small Autometer pen-type shift light in my car. Could care less about shifting at an optimum RPM, but when I see that bright yellow light set at 5200RPM come on, I know it's time to shift.

Now that the MS will do a shift light, I can yank that stuff out.
 
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Gotta be honest, taking the car up to 7000 on the factory tach was both awesome and scary. It’s hard to learn you can trust the engine when you’ve never had a “built” engine before. Tuner says a Woody built fully forged internals engine is safe up to 7200 if I wanted. But I don’t want. I don’t want to phuck it up. 6200-6500 feels pretty great to me. Can’t wait to get it on a dyno and See the graph.