Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread
- Thread starter 95BlueStallion
- Start date
Hmm, the graph shows max power of 329 hp, but I remember 330.2 vividly because he and I agreed it was right on a milestone and high fived. Anywho, check out that wavy AFR. Due to the AFR issue, he was only running it from 3000 to 5700 RPM. Stupid thing didn’t make power above that I’m guessing due to the rich condition. I want this engine to last, so I won’t be revving to the moon anyway.
Poor ol’ Mustang. Spent years in a barn only to be rescued and then returned to a farm. I live on a paved road, but my driveway is gravel and when we get a lot of rain it has a sloppy spot. The car sits outside right now, but I have a barn... The only thing holding me back is the risk of mice.
Ok, ok, anyone that has been on here a while and looked in my thread enough knows when I sit and justify something that it’s because I am trying to convince myself of it. I’m no tuner, but I can only assume my car was going so rich above 4900 rpm because the GT40 tubular intake was choking it. So I bought a Systemax 2 today. I am going to slap it on and have my tuner help me revise the tune. Fingers crossed I don’t lose much torque, and maybe I gain a few ponies between 5-6k RPMs.
Are there any shorty headers for foxes that have larger than 1 5/8 primaries? Seems what I’m finding on the usual LMR-American Muscle sites are all the same. I am not willing to go long tubes.
I am justifying the parts swaps because what I have on the car right now will sell for the same or more than what I’m buying. A powder coated GT40 tubular intake with cover plate is pretty popular at least.
Are there any shorty headers for foxes that have larger than 1 5/8 primaries? Seems what I’m finding on the usual LMR-American Muscle sites are all the same. I am not willing to go long tubes.
I am justifying the parts swaps because what I have on the car right now will sell for the same or more than what I’m buying. A powder coated GT40 tubular intake with cover plate is pretty popular at least.
Tubular Intakes are so Purdy though 
I am also no tuner-but I would think a seasoned tuner would be able to adjust-correct or overcome any short comings of a ported intake. But, that’s pure speculation and a brand new systemax is also very purdy and proven to make Moar Powah- so awesome buy buddy, looking forward to the install and results of the future tuning
I am also no tuner-but I would think a seasoned tuner would be able to adjust-correct or overcome any short comings of a ported intake. But, that’s pure speculation and a brand new systemax is also very purdy and proven to make Moar Powah- so awesome buy buddy, looking forward to the install and results of the future tuning
Going overly rich at any rpm after a tune has been done means the tuner did not tune it correctly.... an intake manifold will not cause this on a maf car, the maf is just reading the mass of air the intake wont affect the maf curve in the ECU.
Mine is running speed density, which is what made me think that. I chatted with my tuner last night, and he told me it’s the tune more than the intake. We just did street driving tuning, never really focused on max power. He did say that I should expect an improvement moving to the Systemax though. I’m going to set up another dyno session with the tuner coming with me to make tweaks and optimize the set up on the dyno. Although the numbers aren’t bad, I want the tune optimized to its fullest.
I'm still curious to see your dyno curve when you swap to the systemax. One of the criticisms of my combo has been my choice to run an explorer intake, which I did thinking it would be better for street driving. Curious to see your numbers to see if that's actually the case
I can say the cam and intake need to be paired, in a max effort build a smaller[long] runner intake will hold back max power.
That’s something I will figure out after this swap. The engine was actually assembled for a carb setup. I don’t speak cam voodoo, so whichever intake of the two gives me a relatively flat torque curve and the best power to 6k is the one I’m going with.
@Mustang5L5
All I know right now is that even though the car feels good, maxing out at 5k RPMs with a stroker engine isn’t sitting well with me. I hope not to lose too much torque going to the systemax (if any), but want to feel that scream to at least 5800 or so.
@Mustang5L5
All I know right now is that even though the car feels good, maxing out at 5k RPMs with a stroker engine isn’t sitting well with me. I hope not to lose too much torque going to the systemax (if any), but want to feel that scream to at least 5800 or so.
The Systemax has arrived. The great news is that it’s already painted/powder coated and all I have to do is scuff and paint it my color of choice.
It came with a BBK throttle body, Trickflow SN elbow, and a 1” spacer I don’t plan to use. May get lucky and recoup a little money, even though I got it for a great price off the start. I’m not selling the tubular intake until the dyno shows me this is worth it. Whichever gives the best curve (not just peak numbers), is the one I will keep.
Before I paint it as is, I was considering smoothing off the logo from the top. You guys just use a flap wheel and an angle grinder for that?
It came with a BBK throttle body, Trickflow SN elbow, and a 1” spacer I don’t plan to use. May get lucky and recoup a little money, even though I got it for a great price off the start. I’m not selling the tubular intake until the dyno shows me this is worth it. Whichever gives the best curve (not just peak numbers), is the one I will keep.
Before I paint it as is, I was considering smoothing off the logo from the top. You guys just use a flap wheel and an angle grinder for that?
- Jul 7, 2005
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Yes, when I cleaned up my explorer intake I just used an 60 grit flap wheel on the angle grinder. It makes a clean and quick work of it.
Flap wheel makes quick work of it, but if you aren't careful you'll get waves. I'd take it down most of the way and then use maybe a belt sander or something to get a flat uniform grade on top
I just started on restoring my Explorer intake, but what I’ve done was with a Dremel, flex shaft, and some grinding discs. It prob takes a little longer than the angle grinder, but you may have a little more control, especially just trying to remove that logo.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I may just leave it alone and paint it a uniform color. Kind of kidding myself to think I have free time to put into it.
I’m in the middle of making new exhaust for my truck. One of my EGR tubes cracked so I had a massive exhaust leak. I’m taking it all off and installing long tubes along with a full new system behind them. It’s been a little more work than I was anticipating, but it’s coming along.
In the meantime I have been driving the Mustang. It’s a friggin basket case, lol. It runs like a raped ape, but every damn interior panel rattles due to the poly engine mounts. I am definitely switching back to rubber. Secondly, I have slit the sidewalls of both my new rear tires due to not rolling my fenders. Also, I don’t know if you guys remember, but I bypassed my heater core because I could smell it and there was steam coming out of my dash a few months ago. Well it’s in the 20’s this morning, and I don’t have heat. Joy!
But one new issue came up. I was hearing a decent amount of wind noise, so I finally investigate (while driving down the road). After installing new LMR door and hatch weatherstripping, check out the fit!
Not sure how I didn’t notice before, but I guess it’s because I wasn’t driving it. This bothers me because it’s money spent on a
product. Gonna have to hit up Wayne’s thread to remind myself which the best brand ended up being because this is bull poop.
In the meantime I have been driving the Mustang. It’s a friggin basket case, lol. It runs like a raped ape, but every damn interior panel rattles due to the poly engine mounts. I am definitely switching back to rubber. Secondly, I have slit the sidewalls of both my new rear tires due to not rolling my fenders. Also, I don’t know if you guys remember, but I bypassed my heater core because I could smell it and there was steam coming out of my dash a few months ago. Well it’s in the 20’s this morning, and I don’t have heat. Joy!
But one new issue came up. I was hearing a decent amount of wind noise, so I finally investigate (while driving down the road). After installing new LMR door and hatch weatherstripping, check out the fit!
Not sure how I didn’t notice before, but I guess it’s because I wasn’t driving it. This bothers me because it’s money spent on a
product. Gonna have to hit up Wayne’s thread to remind myself which the best brand ended up being because this is bull poop.
I'm pretty sure that it was the Daniel Carpenter gaskets that turned out the best. I bought mine from LMR, but apparently I got the unmarked Carpenter ones. Wayne said they were the good ones based on the part number. I bought this kit LRS-20708KIT and it came with these seals LRS-20708A. Looking back at Waynes post in his reply to me he indicated that these seals sold by LMR are the DC seals.
lmr.com
Toward the end of Waynes thread someone else posted about having door closure issues. He gives some advice on how to fix the issue, so defiantly look back at his review.
www.stangnet.com
I've seen where the window frames can become bowed over time and you have to kinda bend them back toward the car. Could that be part of the problem?
Mustang Door To Body Weatherstrip, Pair Exact Ford Reproduction (79-93)
Solve the wind noise in your 1979-1993 Ford Mustang with our replacement door to body weatherstrip!
lmr.com
Toward the end of Waynes thread someone else posted about having door closure issues. He gives some advice on how to fix the issue, so defiantly look back at his review.
Once and For All.....Door to Body Weather Stripping Shootout
www.stangnet.com
I've seen where the window frames can become bowed over time and you have to kinda bend them back toward the car. Could that be part of the problem?
It could be, I’m not sure. I’ll have to look at it closer over my lunch break. I suppose I could also bend the metal lip that the seal slides onto a bit to give it the correct shape as well. Who would think a 30 year old car would need tweaking when using aftermarket parts...
Those window frames shouldn't be sticking out that much. Something else is going on. Are they bent?
Good to know about the poly mounts. Looks like i'll be seeking out some rubber vert mounts.
Good to know about the poly mounts. Looks like i'll be seeking out some rubber vert mounts.
