Just tack weld the nuts on it, Nik. Then they'll never come loose unless you want it to. That's how it's done in big industrial equipment. No worries then.
You're playing the part of the little voice int he back of my head! I think you're right, I'm going to pursue other options...
Congrats on buttoning it up, Nik. Nice work man!
If you're going to play around with the tune yourself, then get a wideband, Nik. There is no better tuning investment in the world. Innovate has have good products.
If you're reading plugs, then shut the engine off at WOT. Don't give the car a chance to clean them off at light load or idle before pulling them. Literally, shut off the car at WOT, or immediately afterwards, and pull the plugs on the side of the road. Otherwise, you're not getting an accurate reading.
Also, I would not drive the car another second without welding the nuts as has been mentioned by others... you're playing with fire.
The quarterhorse is probably your best bet for a piggyback tuning system. All of the reviews think highly of them. If you want a stand-alone system, best bang for the buck is the megasquirt system. The best quality systems are the latest FAST, BS3, or Holley. All have their own following, and I'm very happy with the BS3.
While red loctite "242" high strength should hold, I'd look into other options... I've never had a bolt come loose of the oil pump pickup stud, I also use red loctite there
Look at the AEM wideban as well, the kit is decent and I find their sensors to hold up good, Ive killed a few Innovate things lately, along with some buddies....not sure what is goin on. The thing to remember is you need to look at WOT readings in 4th gear under a good heavy load "while not speeding" and witht he tires hooked up or you will get a off reading. I typically use them more so I know if something happens while driving, I also corrolate the sensor readings to what I see on the dyno while tuning. Just make sure you do not install the sensor bung inline with the stock O2 or you'll get funky readings.
I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge sitting on a shelf in the garage, I may install that if the plugs show my A/F to be way off.
The Abaco MAF meter is also programmable, so I may play with that a little.
Yea, yea... It's gone.I took it out yesterday, and it was actually a bitch to take apart. But, it got old real quick trying to take the oil cap off, and the worry of it coming apart inside the engine was consuming me. I need to explore other options to keep oil out of the throttle body (though, I've driven it since, and it has not seemed to burn any more oil). Ideas?
I will probably run a Quarterhorse. I like the idea of a Megasquirt, but I already have everything in place for a mass-air piggyback. If (*cough* when *cough*) I build another engine for this car or another car, I'll probably dabble into a stand alone system.
Yea, that thing was on there GOOD. I ended up just using a hacksaw to chop the bolt off. I was able to break loose the nuts that had the Loc-Tite on them, but they still did not want to spin off. It ended up being easier to just cut it off, haha. Red Loc-Tite is SERIOUS. I probably would have been safe with it, but then again, why risk it?
I've read good things about the AEM units, too. I recommend that you look in the accuracy testing that has been done in a couple of magazines. If you need help finding it through google, let me know.Thanks for the info, Rick! I'll look into that.
You should really dyno the car soon, im curious to see what numbers it puts down
You should really dyno the car soon, im curious to see what numbers it puts down
Let me ease your suspense: 260rwhp/280ft-lbs of torque
Did your cam guy tell you where he'd expect the motor to peak? I know your cam specs are buried somewhere in this thread, but IIRC it was 215/224 with a 112LSA right?
With a 224/228 111LSA cam on my 302, the motor peaked at around 5300rpm. That was with a small set of heads and a cobra intake, though. With a somewhat similarly sized 228/224 (114LSA I think) on my 331 it actually peaked about 1000 rpm higher, which I attribute to the big flowing AFR205s and Box upper TFS-R intake.
The following is entirely made up of loose-logic based on my old builds... chalk it up as speculation and nothing more:
Your cams intake duration is considerably smaller than either of those cams, so that should bring the powerband down a little. But your heads and intake should breath similarly to the ones on my 331, which will bring it back up. The smaller displacement would shift the powerband up in rpm (or down in power at the same rpm), too. My guess is your engine's theoretical peak will be somewhere north of 6000 rpm. Maybe 6500-6600 RPM? I've never tried to estimate a power peak on a motor before, but that's my best guess. If that's right, then I think you're going to make 335-355rwhp (SAE, dynojet) at 6000 RPM. Is that how high you want to run it on the dyno?
Ive never broken a clutch in for more than a few miles, and never had a problem. What do race teams do to break in a clutch?
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