nitrous on v6

#221

Install guide say's 6 to 18 inches from TB...


I've just went out and took some pics... Give me a little bit to update my webpage.... LOL!
 
#223


The Ford Racing T-LOK is a very smart move.. We wont be running Slicks, and a launch with slicks with lets say a 125 Shot should not hurt the Ford-Racing T-LOK.. Pwrhws hurt his with a 150Shot.. GOD only know what a 150SHOT did for his torque when with a 75SHOT he was making 439RWTQ with the worksheet he provided.. He was most likley making 600RWTQ @ the 150SHOT level which broke the rear-end.. Thats being conservative.. It may have been more..
 
#224
scrming said:
Install guide say's 6 to 18 inches from TB...


I've just went out and took some pics... Give me a little bit to update my webpage.... LOL!
Click to expand...

6 to 18 inches is a huge margin.. I guess putting it at 6 inches is best? Maybe not.. could be 18 inches... Since you just finished the work,.....Wait a minute.. Where are the pictures Scrming? How could you do this to us? We wanna see where you put it man.. Your keeping all the juicy detail to yourself? Get out there into the garage and snap some pics man! Whats going on?
 
#225

I thought that the 439tq was at the 150 shot.
 
#226


Hey I was busy this morning with my LOWER SPRINGS!!!!! LOL! Dropped the car 7/8 inch... I need to start a new thread for that... I've got a physics question... LOL
 
#227
scrming said:
Hey I was busy this morning with my LOWER SPRINGS!!!!! LOL! Dropped the car 7/8 inch... I need to start a new thread for that... I've got a physics question... LOL
Click to expand...


Oh ok.. So we can expect to see some nitrous installed pics by days end? This means all routing, bottle mount location, and install point relative to the TB.. Thanks Scrming, I knew we could count on you..


Jimp should have his pics posted by tomorrow morning hopefully, if everything goes well..

I think we need to find an answer about the 6 to 18 inches ASAP so Jimp can use the info before he gets to that part of the install.. I'll ask around..
 
#229
i have purchased used gears from these guy's before and the quality is good.
www.stangparts.com search for them on page 4 in their rear suspension section in their product inventory. they stock both 3.45 and 3.73 for $75

they are a bit pricey for used gears but they don't sell junk either. no chips or cracks in the gears they sell. they are also a good place for hard to find parts because they are a salvage yard.

3.73's are fine or 3.45's

if you want new the www.gefracing.com is a good place
 
#230

OMG!
What turbo?
I have been hearing about a kit for the V6 but have not heard anything yet.
 

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#231
It should be under development right now.. Pwrhws is making it.. We're all anxious to see the numbers..

Keep in mind, the numbers you see with the Nitrous will be tough to beat.. A supercharger, or a turbo system would yield about the same type of power if not less with more strain on the engine..

The Nitrous setup while alot less expensive is going to be tough to compete with.. You have to figure the notrous system still is not maxed out.. To max it out would require some possible work to the internals.. So while we are all anxious for the Turbo system, how in the world can we overlook the nitro as a power-adder...?
 
#234
pwrhws said:
We have been busy with our V8 car as of late, but look for the V6 car at the Bowling Green NMRA event with a complete functional prototype.

View attachment 503045
Click to expand...

Hey Mike,

Nice addition to an already interesting thread. What figures are they indicating on the 1-T?

And, if you happen to know, what type of internal work is needed to support it, if any?

I have been meaning to check with you on a couple things. Maybe you can assist?

If someone goes with a S/C-9 psi boost, are there any internal modifications that you have found that are "necessary" to maintain this type of boost as a DD for more than about 30,000 miles from initial installation of the indiction modification?

On the Turbo - same question.

This is taking into account the following assumptions:

Rear end has been replaced with a T-lock and 3.73 or 4.10 gears;
Tune has been completed with with a 91-O;
CAI has been installed and already tuned for;
Exhaust modification with ceramic headers, like JBAs and tune included;
Cat-back inclusive to and X design with less restrictive mufflers.
Livelink datalogging via W/B has been performed to retain maximum 13.5 -14.0 A/F at WOT.

Your input is always requested and appreciated, Mike.

Jenn
 
#235
Jenn,
Our goal is to figure what would be safe as a daily driver, I would think that 9psi would be fine, but it would really depend on the tune, especially the ignition timing.
We will have more info as it becomes available, as of right now we are in the earliest stages of fitting and dyno testing will begin by the middle of the weekend, with a bit of dragstrip testing by mid week and next weekend.

The original nitrous testing that we did was solely to test the boundaries of the motor, our goal is to see the same gains from the turbo, with rear wheel horsepower in the mid 300's.

One of the things that is going to be a concern is the clutch, which is relativly small in dia. when compared to that of the v8 cars. I have yet to begin research on replacement clutches, I am sure that there is a performance oriented replacement for it, just have yet to take the time to find it.

I will follow up with more details after the weekend, hopefully by that point we will have rock solid numbers for everyone.
 
#236

This is good info... Right now i'm running the 75HP shot with very conservative tune (we actually pulled an extra 2 degrees of timing after returning to the stock timing) Would it be fair to say that with stock internals, colder plugs and doing a very cautious tune that the 100HP shot should be ok? I don't plan on putting on slick and with the automatic I'm launching at 1500 to 1800 RPM.... So if you guys are planning on 300RWHP I'm thinking the 100HP shot as I've describe should be pretty reasonable???? Any comments would be GREAT apreciated!

thanks!!!!
 
#237
Keep in mind that we have run a 150 shot on our car, I would not reccomend it to the squeemish, but we have done it. At 150 there seems to be a fuel distribution issue, which if we were planning on running the N2O I would take the time to figure out.

100 shouldn't be a big deal,

125 worked very well, but we were running good fuel and a good tune.

You are heading the right direction, take your time, tread lightly and keep an eye on the pressure drop across the injector when tuning the car, because if you run out of fuel with the bigger shot piston damage is near certain.

Make sure that the bottle pressure is up when the car is tuned, if the bottle pressure is only 650lbs, and you tune for "X" afr, it will run lean on a hot bottle w/ 900 and even leaner w/1100 psi.
 
#238

Thanks for the quick response and INFO!!!

I'm working with Lidio at Alternative Auto (www.alternativeauto.com) He is very cautious and methodical! He definitely keeps me from rushing into anything! LOL!!! While I'm trying to rush, he is in the background saying "You need to learn to walk before you run!" LOL!

That's a great point about the bottle pressure... I'm going back to the dyno tomorrow and I've topped my bottle off... I also got a pressure gauge and heater on the bottle so I will be keeping an eye on it...

If all goes well and everything looks good I think we may try out the 100HP jets... I just have to remember to "tread lightly" and not get greedy!

Thanks again!!!! This info is extremely helpful! Hopefully I'll have a nice new dyno graph to post tomorrow!!! LOL!
 
#240
pwrhws said:
the tread lightly theory dosen't work well with the ease of power increases/Jet changes involved in the N2O.
Click to expand...

Well, we went to the 100HP jets today... Everything look good... A/F was great... We reviewed the timing... was very stable... Unfortunately with the SCT you can't monitor the knock sensor... So looks like 100HP was a safe move... Hoping to get to the track tomorrow... Thanks for all the info!!!!
 
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