No Heat or Air???

Look for vacuum problems in the plastic lines that control the airflow.

Make sure the fan runs - check fuse & fan speed switch.

If the fan runs and all the fuses are good, the A/C may be low on refrigerant. To test, remove the electrical connector from the dryer/receiver (quart sized alumimum tank mounted on passenger side firewall). Jumper the two connections inside the wiring harness side of the connector together. This allows the compressor to engage in spite of low pressure/no gas in the system. Do not do this for more than a few seconds, since there is insufficent oil/refrigerant in the system to properly lubricate the compressor. If the relay and other electrical items are OK, the compressor clutch will engage and turn the compressor.



Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
HVAC vacuum diagram


Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif



Fuse box layout

MustangFuseBox.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.


Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
 
Is this your first winter with the car ? If so, look on the firewall and make sure your heater hoses are still hooked up to the heater core. If not, then maybe it was leaking and someone bypassed it. If it's still connected, then make sure the hoses are hot going into and out of the core and it has good circulation. If one is hot and one is cold, maybe the core is stopped up or has poor circulation. If that's the case, you might need a new heater core. I would tackle the AC next spring...
 
Well, I have had the car almost 3 years and the AC and Heat never worked since I had it. It sat for some time and finally this summer I replaced a bunch of stuff on it to get into good running condition. I want to continue to drive it as long as there is no snow on the ground and we don't usually get too much but it gets cold as all hell.
I checked the two hoses today and both are connected. The one on the driver side seems hotter than the one on the passenger side. It is warm, just does not seem to be as hot.
 
Assuming the car is running at normal operating temperatures, I would say you need a new heater core. Or, the vacuume lines from the switch are pinched, blocked or leaky, allowing you to change the fan direction, but it might be stuck on a cold setting.
 
Well, I have had the car almost 3 years and the AC and Heat never worked since I had it. It sat for some time and finally this summer I replaced a bunch of stuff on it to get into good running condition. I want to continue to drive it as long as there is no snow on the ground and we don't usually get too much but it gets cold as all hell.
I checked the two hoses today and both are connected. The one on the driver side seems hotter than the one on the passenger side. It is warm, just does not seem to be as hot.

Maybe you could check to see if the doors are operating properly as jrichker described above and if they are then it is obviously something else. Of course the heater core is just acting as a radiator of a sort, so some temperature difference in the two hoses would be expected, but the question would be how much difference is normal. If you suspect the heater core is stopped up with mineral deposits, here's what works for me, and I am nursing my original 20 year old, 226,000 mile heater core along. Take the short hoses off, but not at the firewall (since the heater core nipple pipes are fragile), move up to where the short hoses join into the metal pipes that run along the intake. Then take the garden hose and reverse flush the heater core. Then take some boiling water and mix with CLR and using a funnel pour the CLR and hot water into the core (carefully). Let it sit for a while (pretty much follow the instructions on the CLR container) and then flush. Repeat this process until the water flows free and clear. Note: This process could cause your heater core to leak if it is weak. As for me, it works well enough that it's worth the risk and a lot easier than replacing the core !
 
Well, I have had the car almost 3 years and the AC and Heat never worked since I had it. It sat for some time and finally this summer I replaced a bunch of stuff on it to get into good running condition. I want to continue to drive it as long as there is no snow on the ground and we don't usually get too much but it gets cold as all hell.
I checked the two hoses today and both are connected. The one on the driver side seems hotter than the one on the passenger side. It is warm, just does not seem to be as hot.

Do you have a thermostat, and are you sure it's working?