No Schrader Valve on my 90 LX?

[mrswivlepants]

Make sure your tps is set and operating correctly, and reset the computer.
Did you check for vacuum leaks? Fuel filter? o2 sensors? how long since the last tuneup?

I'll try the timing tomorrow. As for the rest of that stuff, lets handle it in order:
TPS came new with the throttlebody. Haven't reset the computer which, now that I think about it, could make a big difference if I'm not mistaken. Vacuum hoses seem alright and didn't hear any surging idle when I doused the engine in brake clean. Fuel filter was replaced within the year. O2s replaced within the last three months...and finally, what's your definition of a tuneup? Plugs, cap, rotors, wires, oil, oil filter all replaced within the last three months.

 

[mrswivlepants]

*BUMP*
I advanced the timing to 14 with no knocking or anything running 93 in the tank. It still runs like a dog. Not so bad in the top but still feels like it's not where it should be. It's jerky like in a stock car when you decelerate and bring the rpms below like 750. But this happens anytime the car is below 1500 rpms. Anyone think the 70mm TB might be the cause of these symptoms?
Once again, here's the setup:
Cobra Intake
73mm C&L MAF
70mm TB
24lb FRPP injectors.
AFPR

 

[stang22]

Try clocking the MAF. Instead of having the sensor in the 12 o'clock position (if you are standing in front of the car), put it in the 9 o'clock position. Also, do you have the 24# sampling tube in your MAF? Just checking... I don't think that 70mm TB is your problem. Before I built my new engine, I ran a 70mm TB with a stock upper/lower with no problems. Give us some more ideas of how it is running. Is it missing, falling on its face, etc...

Tim

 

[Michael Yount]

Have you pulled the codes?

 

[mrswivlepants]

Try clocking the MAF. Instead of having the sensor in the 12 o'clock position (if you are standing in front of the car), put it in the 9 o'clock position. Also, do you have the 24# sampling tube in your MAF? Just checking... I don't think that 70mm TB is your problem. Before I built my new engine, I ran a 70mm TB with a stock upper/lower with no problems. Give us some more ideas of how it is running. Is it missing, falling on its face, etc...

Tim

I'm not familiar with "clocking the MAF." Can you give me some more info on this? As far as missin, falling on its face, etc... I'm not too sure if it is. In all honesty, I haven't had any huge problems with this car (my first) until now and I don't know what those symptoms feel like.

As far as the codes, I'm doing that tomorrow @ work. Didn't have a scanner available this weekend.

 

[stang22]

Clocking the MAF ussually helps out a rich condition, but it has cured other problems as well... especially with the C&L's.

Look at the position of the MAF sensor in this pic. It is in the 9 o'clock position versus the stock 12 o'clock position.
View attachment 512794

 

[mrswivlepants]

So perty...anyway, is your meter just unmounted in that pic or did you fabricate a new bracket? Seems a little hokie but I'll give anything a shot right about now. Lemme pull the codes first. If nothing of interest comes up I'll give clocking a shot and post.

 

[stang22]

I do not have bracket on the MAF, it is pretty tight and secure like that. Believe me, if I thought it was going to be a problem I would have fabricated one up, but it is fine.

Tim

 

[jrichker]

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

 

[mrswivlepants]

Jrichker, thanks for the info but I have a MAC tools code scanner at my disposal at work with other functions that might help me get to the bottom of this. Gonna hook it up after work and see what she tells me.

 

[jrichker]

Nice to have the tools you need. MAC tools are good stuff.

 

[mrswivlepants]

First the good news. My power loss turned out to be something easy and stupid. I ran the codes, more on them later, then did a cylinder balance test with the ole MAC-O-METER and cylinder 5 was tits up through both cycles. I checked spark and then made sure the injectors were seated. I'm bashing my head against the windshield over and over again and then I think to look at the electronic harness for the injector. BINGO, turns out the pins were all bent up and not making contact. After fixing the pins I took the car out and she ran well.

Bad news is I got some codes.
12 RPM Not Within Self Test Lower Limit
44 Secondary Air System Inoperative ,
31 EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Circuit Below Minimum Voltage