No Spark

STSFCTN67

Member
Feb 5, 2003
450
0
16
Denver, CO
I plan on finally bringing my car over to the bodyshop tomorrow and I can't get it to start - basically no spark. I have been working on the body off and on for the past two years and have been running the engine every month or so.
It is getting gas down the intake
I have checked the coil with the ignition on - okay
I took the plug wire off the coil and turned the engine over and no snap or spark when trying to ground it out.
I have the engine grounded
I have swapped the coil - no spark
I do have a late model (90+ mustang) serpentine setup with the 351 swap brackets so I have a late model 3g alt wired into the sylenoid. I also have a late model starter and that is wired into the sylenoid as well I have an electric fan with a relay through the sylenoid also.
The car ran 2 weeks ago just fine?? And now nothing. I do have to jump the car to start it because the battery drained down-but it turns over very strong when jumped. There is a brown wire that goes to the sylenoid that I traced back to the coil. I cleaned the brown wire connection (push on type) to the sylenoid. With the key on it gets juice.
I did not put an ohm meter on the coil but just a test light and finally when I checked the fuse box all fuses were fine except for the smallest one in the center. It is getting no juice with or without the key on.
 
You didn't say the type of dist. you have, but it sounds like you have points. I would look at the condenser. Somtimes the break loose from the ground, and I have seen them go bad ans just "absorb" the spark if you will.
 
make sure you have voltage going through the coil with the key on engine off. if not then you have a bad coil. if you do then it sounds like a bad ignition module.
 
test your ignition module. The Accel module can puke easily and between your 3g alternator and jumping it to start (shouldn't do that with Accel or Mallory), you may have trashed it. They have a way to test it at their website.
 
key on engine off - Test light checks OK
Where is the ignition module?

follow the wiring from the dist and you should run right into it. if after testing the module, and you find it bad, i would replace it with a chrysler ignition box(the orange one as it is an upgrade over stock). that will give you a reliable ignition box that you can find just about anywhere. you can get the box, and the wiring harness from summit racing.
 
Problem solved

Electrical Gremlin strikes again....

I changed the battery out because I was tired of jumping it and it started right up. I am sure there is a wire somewhere that is loose or broken but for now I can get it over to the body shop:D