Sorry meant to erase the post o do have 5 volt reference I keep getting code 29 the vss i have it in another post, there are some weird things/issues that I have happen on cars I’ve seen. So I’ll ask ,anything that could cause me getting a code 29 other than the normal ? In other words can a diffent sensor like a bad maf cause that? Just asking cuz I’ve been thro everything & can’t figure this out . Until I can borrow/swap another ecu I can’t eliminate that from the equation. I can even get ahold of anyone at ecu exchange. Know another ecu place? I am tempted to take it to altex there is a guy that works on circuit boards but don’t think that car ecus are his expertiseI believe you need to test between the ground and the 5V reference at the device. Using a chassis ground doesn’t really work.
Found this thread that may help you.
Post in thread 'Tps Troubles. Low Voltage At The Vref Or Org/wht Wire.'
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...-the-vref-or-org-wht-wire.888387/post-8942474
No I sent it to them and they said it passed. I thought maybe it was something else on the car but I’ve replaced pretty much everything with exception on spark plugs now I have no idea what to do cuz I don’t have a clue what it could be I already went over everything more then once I did have a da1 but I sold it if I remember correctly it did run with it I think I just disconnected the maf and ran a vacc hose to the map to make it a bapI doubt ECU Exchange will answer the phone but I’ve never tried. Did you send it off to them and have questions or just want to ask them questions to see if you can determine if it needs to be gone through? Of it’s the latter I can tell you it won’t hurt to just send it as pretty much everyone that sends their to them get the power supply and other end of life parts replaced as they are noisy or not up to spec.
If it’s your primary mode of transport then I would highly suggest you just buy a spare. I had three at one point but sold one with a harness as it didn’t make any sense to have three.
Hey quick question, if I go with the micro squirt (I’ve had it before) using the data log( not sure how to interpret) think that’s where I can see in real time why the cars running ragged ? I know but I don’t know lol.I doubt ECU Exchange will answer the phone but I’ve never tried. Did you send it off to them and have questions or just want to ask them questions to see if you can determine if it needs to be gone through? Of it’s the latter I can tell you it won’t hurt to just send it as pretty much everyone that sends their to them get the power supply and other end of life parts replaced as they are noisy or not up to spec.
If it’s your primary mode of transport then I would highly suggest you just buy a spare. I had three at one point but sold one with a harness as it didn’t make any sense to have three.
what I’m saying is maybe a transistor or something in the ecu might have a problem/burned trace & the injectors I’m running are 30s,same as the 30s that lmr sells. I know that the original red 30s are the only injectors my car likes. I have zero clue of the maf match’s because it’s an original one I can tell. So I have no idea if they match I’m assuming that they do match be five had my car running for years that way but when I rebuilt the engine 7 years back I went all out & bought everything new I tried to buy new injectors the 30s from lmr & I don’t remember what it was but my car didn’t like them.Surely you know that you can't just swap injectors on these cars and do nothing else.
The EEC has [zero] ability to adjust for that.
O and the maf injectors & ecu came on the car & it’s been running for years with no issues but when I tried to replace the injectors my car didn’t like them so I stuck with these original ones & have t had a issue till now. Maybe the injectors are still good just need to know maybe one isn’t giving the same amount of fuel & maybe that’s causeing my engine not to be as efficient?With regards to the 30 lb/hr injectors, do you have a calibrated MAF? If so what brand and model?
I went back to one of your many threads (this is why progress threads are so nice as all the info is in one spot) and you keep mentioning (or at least I think you do) wiring issues related to the instrument cluster like the fuel gauge not reading at times. Has all of that been addressed?
Yea no chip brotherAnd to be clear: There is no chip in the back of your ECU, is that correct?
By the way the msd box is not connected I just have it in there it’s been there for years I disconnected it when I found out it was bad. I’ve been running the car for years . I can open the ecu in the morning there is no chip & in the ecu or in the kick panel of any kindToss up a pic of the ID plate and/or numbers on your MAF when you get the chance.
Yes it is a c& l housing . Where is the sample tube?That looks like a C&L MAF housing. It likely has a sample tube in it.
The sample tube for 30lb injectors on the 73mm housing should be RED (#103).
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