You can feed it in moderately. I think the ECU just looks for >50% on the TPS sensor to run the CBT.
I'll pull them in the morning when i get some light and try to get a balance test but not sure if it will be able to. If I press the gas pedal down too fast it will die.
I'm probably doing something wrong but I can't get it to do a balance test. KOEO it's saying 11 for system ok then the 10 separation code and a 63 in the continuous memory for TP circuit fault, below minimum voltage. KOER test it will throw code 98 and 63.You can feed it in moderately. I think the ECU just looks for >50% on the TPS sensor to run the CBT.
Ok so key on I'm getting .96 to tps and at pin 47 I'm getting .93. Pin 46 I'm getting nothing.Code 63 is your TPS voltage is too low. That means the ECU is reading less than 0.5 volts.
I think you measured 0.9-1V at the TPS sensor, but you shoyld see what you have down at the ECU. With the ECU plugged in and key ON, backprobe pin 47 and 46. Pin 47 is the signal return from the TPS. What do you have here? If oyu have 1V at the sensor, but 0.2v at the ECU, you have a connection problem somewhere.
98 (r): Hard fault present. The PCM is running in FMEM (Failure Effects Management Mode). Something is messed up. I would troubleshoot the code 63 first before proceeding. That may be causing a hard fault (especially if that wire is shorted)
Ok gotcha, I did pin 47 and 60 for the reading. Will pull codes againPin 46 is sensor ground. You actually want to measure the voltage between 46 and 46.
If it’s running better, dump codes again.
Alright that worked. Koeo no codes just 11 and no memory codesPin 46 is sensor ground. You actually want to measure the voltage between 46 and 46.
If it’s running better, dump codes again.
That was the one I tested with the Noid light test when it wouldn't fire and it was getting power. Will try out the ohms. Wouldn't surprise me if it was the injector being all originalYup. Cyl 5 not firing.
Test the injector. Measure resistance across the two prongs if you unplug the connector. Should be 14.4ohms of resistance.
Could also be spark and/or compression related. I assume the port is not blocked so air should be getting in.
Up to you to see which one you tackle first.
I'm getting 14.3 then it will go to 14.2 but right back to 14.3Yup. Cyl 5 not firing.
Test the injector. Measure resistance across the two prongs if you unplug the connector. Should be 14.4ohms of resistance.
Could also be spark and/or compression related. I assume the port is not blocked so air should be getting in.
Up to you to see which one you tackle first.
Pulled the plug and tested, it does have spark. I may have an extra injector laying around somewhere. If not it looks like auto zone has some in stock. In a wedding tomorrow so If I can't get there tonight after work I'll have to mess around with it SundaySo that test comes back good.
But is injector firing? Usually i'd say swap the injectors and see if the problem follows the injector or remains. If oyu have a spare injector sitting around you can try that as well. The injector might be clogged internally.
I still wouldn't rule out spark and compression yet. I'd pull the plug, ground it somewhere and visually confirm a spark.
Is there a way to swap 1 and 5 without taking the intake off? I'm supposed to be taking the car to storage for a few months while I move.You can always swap the injector to another location. A no-cost approach.
All depends on your gut feeling as to if that injector is bad or not.
Personally, if you have alot on your plate right now, go stick the car in storage and get caught up on your move, new house, etc... When you bring the car home to work on it, you might have less on your mind and a clearer focus on the car......Is there a way to swap 1 and 5 without taking the intake off? I'm supposed to be taking the car to storage for a few months while I move.
Debating on it since at least now it runs well enough to get on a trailer and store it Or pull the intake thats never been removed and probably cause another issue with my luck
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