Noise from the rear end 03 GT

beerman1378

New Member
Aug 7, 2006
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I just noticed after driving approx 100 miles that when I pulled into a parking lot at a slow speed, the rear end sounded like it was "grinding" when I took a left or a right. By grinding, I mean it sounds similar to gears that are not meshing correctly. You can feel it in the seat especially when backing out of a parking spot. In a straight line there a very very faint "click" when just starting out in 1st. But here's the weird thing. When I drive locally, there are NO more noises! Its only when I drive long distances. Anybody ever experience this b4?

I just ordered a differential gasket and I'm gonna pull the differential cover off to make sure everything is ok and there is enough gear oil. Until then, maybe someone has ran into something similar.


Thanks

Rob
 
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TSB 06-4-4

There is a TSB regarding LSD chatter that applies to 2002-2004 Mustangs. The text has been included for your reference.

Note, Ford has changed the recommended fluid to 75W140 (Synthetic highly recommended due to increase service intervals).

Note, the gasket is not required. Instead, a bead of RTV silcone is put around the cover and bolt holes. The bolts should be torqued to 24 foot pounds. If over torqued, the cover will leak.

>>TSB 06-4-4

03/06/06

LIMITED SLIP AXLE CHATTER, SHUDDER, BINDING
SENSATION, OR VIBRATION DURING LOW SPEED
TURNING MANEUVERS

FORD:
2002-2004 Mustang, Explorer
2003-2004 Expedition
2004 F-150

LINCOLN:
2003 Navigator

MERCURY:
2002-2004 Mountaineer

This article supersedes TSB 06-02-16 to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE
Some 2003-2004 Expedition, 2003 Navigator, 2004 F-150 vehicles equipped with a 9.75" or 8.8" limited slip rear axle, and 2002-2004 Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, and Mustang vehicles equipped with 8.8" limited slip rear axle may exhibit a chatter shudder, a binding sensation, or a vibration during low speed turns. On 4X4 vehicles, the sensation may appear to be originating from the front axle or the steering gear.

ACTION
First verify the condition. On 4X4 trucks ensure that the vehicle is in 2WD, to isolate the rear axle. On all vehicles, turn the wheel fully right (or fully left) and then accelerate the vehicle. If the condition is verified to be in the rear axle, replace the limited slip clutch pack.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

CAUTION INSTRUCT THE CUSTOMER NOT TO TOW WITH THE VEHICLE FOR 500 MILES (805 KM) AFTER THIS REPAIR, TO ALLOW THE AXLE TO BREAK-IN PROPERLY.

Order and install the appropriate clutch pack, follow the instructions detailed in the Workshop Manual.

^ 6L1Z-4947-A (9.75" limited slip)

^ F5AZ-4947-BA (8.8" limited slip)

NOTE INSTALLING A CLUTCH PACK INTO AN INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSION (IRS) AXLE IS DIFFERENT FROM INSTALLING A CLUTCH PACK INTO A SOLID-BEAM AXLE. BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURE.

INSTALLATION TIPS

^ Be sure to install NEW circlips and halfshaft/wheel end nuts on IRS rear axle (not included in the service kit)

^ Soak the new clutch packs in Additive Friction Modifier (XL-3) for fifteen (15) minutes prior to installation

^ For IRS axles, the half shaft seals need to be replaced. Expedition and Explorer/Mountaineer applications should use seal kit part number SL1Z-4A109-A. Removal of the half shaft excluder seal 1L2Z-1N013 may be required, if equipped, to facilitate re-assembly

^ Refill axles with 4 oz. Additive Friction Modifier (XL-3) and the necessary amount of Rear Axle Lubricant (XY-75W140-QL), regardless of the axle lubricant system originally used in the axle. Fill to capacity recommended in the Workshop Manual

NOTE AXLE FLUID REQUIREMENTS HAVE BEEN CHANGED. ALL VEHICLES BEING REPAIRED BY THIS TSB MUST HAVE REAR AXLE LUBE XY-75W140-QL INSTALLED, IN PLACE OF XY75W90-QFEHP. AS PART OF THIS REPAIR, CHECK AND REPLACE IF NECESSARY THE CURRENT XY-75W90-Q"FEHP" METAL TAG, WITH A NEW 75W140 TAG (F3TZ-4121-AA).

ADDITIONALLY, REMOVE THE MULTI-COLORED LABEL WHICH IS LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE, AXLE TUBE, OR BLOCK OUT ANY/ALL "FEHP" OR "75W90" REFERENCES ON THE LABEL.
 
I noticed the rear end is leaking more than a so called normal leak would. There are actual substantial spots on the ground in the few spots I regularly park in. I'm wondering if the longer drive heats up the gears more and with probably having a low amount of gear oil brings about this noise. When I pull the diff cover off Ill use the ford recommended gear oil. Ill let ya know if it helps. I appreciate your feedback.

Thanks

Rob
 
Ok, so after reading that TSB I am not wondering...is the fluid in the "pumpkin" seperate from fluid in the axles? Never even thought about that being a possibility. And I am experiencing popping from my rear as well, and always have, but I believe it is the UJOINT. Check that
 
I noticed the rear end is leaking more than a so called normal leak would. There are actual substantial spots on the ground in the few spots I regularly park in. I'm wondering if the longer drive heats up the gears more and with probably having a low amount of gear oil brings about this noise. When I pull the diff cover off Ill use the ford recommended gear oil. Ill let ya know if it helps. I appreciate your feedback.

Thanks

Rob
Where is it leaking from? The pinion or the axles? Axles seals are fairly easy to change. Pinion is MUCH HARDER.

The rear end should never leak enough to leave a puddle on the ground. Likely there is a bad seal. Consider seal replacement while the cover is off.

Note, there is a TSB regarding an oil leak from the pinion (not the seal). Basically the oil is leaking through the threads of the pinion nut. The TSB calls for RTV silcone to be used between the pinion nut and flange. The bad news is this requires the pinion pre-load to be re-set/checked. This is a tedious procedure that needs careful measurements before/after to be done correctly. If not done correctly, pinion bearing life may be greatly reduced.

If just the snout of the pinion has a very small oil leak, this is thread migration and unless it is leaking a lot of oil can be lived with. It will be necessary to monitor the oil level.

Also note, the oil fill level is NOT even with the fill hole (1/4" to 1/2" from the top). Capacity is 1.9 liters (4.0/3.75 pints). This leaves room for expansion.
 
Ok, so after reading that TSB I am not wondering...is the fluid in the "pumpkin" seperate from fluid in the axles? Never even thought about that being a possibility. And I am experiencing popping from my rear as well, and always have, but I believe it is the UJOINT. Check that
At the risk of high jacking someone else's thread, if the popping/clicking occurs while driving a straight line, it is more likely U-joints.

If it happens while turning, it could be LSD. It could also be wheel bearings.

U-joint clicking usually occurs when changing from power to coast or coast to power. It may be more noticable at slow speeds.

Sometimes, a bad pinion bearing will start out making a ticking sound. Again, it will occur all of the time and it's frequency will be based upon car speed. It may change in pitch as you go from power to coast.

LSD problems would almost always occur while turning.

U-joints are easy to change and not very expensive. Esp when you consider the hassle of a break down. The vibration will wear other parts as well.

A ball joint press can be rented that will made the job easier. Be sure to press the cups in straight. I didn't. Broke the pinion yoke. Lesson learned. If you have to really strain to turn the wrench, something is wrong. I was lucky it wasn't too expensive of a part. :damnit:
 
Resurrecting this thread as my 2002 gt 5 speed starting doing this today after about 100 miles of highway driving. I pulled into a rest stop and as I turned tightly around the parking lot rear end started making a grinding sound. It doesn't make the sound when I'm driving straight, only turning in tighter circles.

I plan on parking the car until I can pop the differential cover and changing the fluid/look for evidence of wear or any chips in the gears. Is that TSB that wmburns still available if it has not yet been performed on the car, or are we well out of the effective date?
 
Perhaps there's some confusion here. A TSB is not a warranty. It's a procedure that has been encountered frequently enough to have a recommend repair procedure (TSB) created. The TSB is as valid now as it was then.
 
Perhaps there's some confusion here. A TSB is not a warranty. It's a procedure that has been encountered frequently enough to have a recommend repair procedure (TSB) created. The TSB is as valid now as it was then.

Okay, thank you wmburns! I read the PDF of the TSB you had posted previously and it seemed to indicate that this TSB was valid for the effective vehicle warranty. I believe I've seen other TSB'S like on my truck for the door locks freezing that were valid up until like 100k. I'll call my local dealer today and see if they can run the VIN and verify whether it has been performed yet or not.
 
I spoke to my local dealer is afternoon and he looked up my VIN. He said as far as he can tell the procedure has not been performed yet, and I likely need the updated fluid. I planned on doing the fluid anyway, it should be here in a couple days so when I get back home in 1.5 weeks I'll be able to swap it out. I still have a tube of Trans-X limited slip additive from when I changed the fluid in my plow truck, but I'm getting the Valvoline synthetic with the additive in it already
 
Just to update this thread for anyone who might find it searching a decade later like I did!

I drained the fluid and it still looked good surprisingly. Just a little darker brown than the original honey color. It wasn't black or a milky consistency like I've seen in other differentials. There was a decent amount of debris on the magnetic fill plug and residue on the diff cover so I cleaned them off to a shine and refilled the differential. I put in 4 ounces of the limited slip additive along with the Valvoline Synthetic 75W140 and that fixed the chatter! I'm assuming the additives wore down in the fluid and it was time for some fresh blood in there.

Although I was told there was no record of the TSB being performed on my car the differential tag said synthetic 75W140 on it, but I *thought* these came with 75W90 from the factory. At least that's what I saw as recommended from a few online sources.

Thanks for the help and good luck to anyone with a similar issue, hopefully it's as easy of a fix as mine!