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Noisy lifters in my 1965 mustang

  • Thread starter Thread starter mustangguy65
  • Start date Start date Mar 29, 2011

mustangguy65

New Member
Jan 26, 2011
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Mar 29, 2011
#1
  • Mar 29, 2011
  • #1
Ive got a little problem i hope . I own a 65 mustang coupe mild 289 build 351 heads, Stock 289 push rods, Stock crank, Mild cam, Stock roller rockers non adjustable .The lifters are making a little noise could it be the stock push rods ? and if it is the push rods witch push rods do i need ?
push rods 302
push rods 351
Thanks
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Mar 29, 2011
#2
  • Mar 29, 2011
  • #2
Non adjustable rockers? There's your problem. Change to screw-in studs, and adjust them.
 

mustangguy65

New Member
Jan 26, 2011
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California
Mar 29, 2011
#3
  • Mar 29, 2011
  • #3
Thanks
So to my understanding is just change the studs to screw-in studs and i can keep the roller rockers?
And if so where do i buy them
Thanks
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
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79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Mar 29, 2011
#4
  • Mar 29, 2011
  • #4
Jegs, Summit, any local speed shop, many auto parts stores.
 

mustangguy65

New Member
Jan 26, 2011
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#5
  • Mar 29, 2011
  • #5
Thanks 2+2GT i will see if i can find some screw-in studs
Any more input would be great
Thanks
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
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Las Vegas, NV
Mar 29, 2011
#6
  • Mar 29, 2011
  • #6
Once you change from the non-adjustable pedestal mount to adjustable with studs, don't you need to add guide plates or something else to keep the rockers aligned?
Just Asking,
Gene
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Mar 29, 2011
#7
  • Mar 29, 2011
  • #7
Valvetrain geometry is critical. If you get it wrong it could cause bad problems. The only Windsor engine I know of with stock roller rockers is the '93 - '94 Cobra 5.0L. Adjustable roller rockers require guide plates, which might be included in the stud kit.
 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
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Houston, TX
Mar 30, 2011
#8
  • Mar 30, 2011
  • #8
Changing heads could change the geometry and require longer pushrods. Check where the end of the valve is contacting the rocker. If it is off center then you probably need a different length pushrod.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
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79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Mar 30, 2011
#9
  • Mar 30, 2011
  • #9
If you have rail rockers, you don't need guide plates. If you don't, then yes, you need guide plates. Guide plates are not expensive. Even the Ford Racing plates retail for $25. Some are even less.
 

mustangguy65

New Member
Jan 26, 2011
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California
Mar 30, 2011
#10
  • Mar 30, 2011
  • #10
Thanks for all the input guys. I guess i will be doing a little work this weekend.
I will keep you updated
Thanks
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
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49
Las Vegas, NV
Mar 30, 2011
#11
  • Mar 30, 2011
  • #11
The question we have all failed to ask is:

Did the lifters just start making noise after being fine for while?

OR:

Have they always been a little noisy since putting this combo together?

FYI, the Ford Racing/Crane roller rockers DO make a little noise, as do most roller racker arms.
HTH,
Gene
 

mustangguy65

New Member
Jan 26, 2011
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Mar 31, 2011
#12
  • Mar 31, 2011
  • #12
They have always been a little noisy horseballz since putting this combo together.
 
J

j69302

Active Member
Jan 31, 2006
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Mar 31, 2011
#13
  • Mar 31, 2011
  • #13
With the warmed up(and engine off) remove the valve covers. Since they are hydraulic you can probably do this cold, but warm would be better.

Start with #1 cyl at TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.

Take a feeler gauge and try to slip it in between the rocker arm and valve stem tip.

With hydraulic lifters you should have 0 play (valve lash).

Any play is what is making the noise. Since you changed heads you will need either longer pushrods. or adjustable rocker arms.

The pushrod length is to center the contact area of the rocker arm over the valve stem. If this is currently centered, then keep you push rods and get adjustable rocker arms.

If the tip of the rocker arm is NOT centered over the valve stem, then you need to get adjustable pushrods to measure the current length, and then buy a set of pushrods that length. (I think the adjustable rods are only for engine building)
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Mar 31, 2011
#14
  • Mar 31, 2011
  • #14
The Crane rollers that bolt on in place of the factory non rollers are adjusted by using shims. You can get the instructions crom Crane or off of Summits website.
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
19
49
Las Vegas, NV
Mar 31, 2011
#15
  • Mar 31, 2011
  • #15
6. To check and adjust the lifter preload, turn the bolt by hand until
there is no clearance between the front roller and the valve stem
and the pushrod is seated in the rocker arm pushrod seat. Slowly
torque the bolt to 18-20 ft/lbs. Since you are pushing down the
plunger in the hydraulic lifter as you torque the bolt, it will probably
take a minute or two for you to get the correct setting. You
should be able to turn the bolt between 1/4 & 1 turn before you
reach the correct torque setting. This will give you the correct lifter
preload of .020" to .060". If you can turn the bolt more than one
turn to achieve the proper torque, you will have to shim the
pedestal. Two different thickness shims are provided for each
rocker arm to assist you. A thick shim represents approximately
one turn.
If you cannot turn the bolt at least 1/4 turn after first contact with
the roller and valve stem, you will have to install longer pushrods
to obtain proper hydraulic lifter preload. Pushrods are available in
different lengths, specifically for this purpose. There are many
modifications that may have been made to the engine which will
change the lifter preload, such as a valve job, different camshaft,
or different thickness head gaskets, and factory tolerances can
also affect the lifter preload on stock engines.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Mar 31, 2011
#16
  • Mar 31, 2011
  • #16
Yeah, what he said. ^
 
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