Note to self... make brake lines before engine install.

68converted

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#1

• Oct 25, 2006

• #1

 

M

mustangman70

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Oct 25, 2006

#2

• Oct 25, 2006

• #2

Whoops lol

Thanks for teaching me that before i had to teach myself!

 

B

blue65coupe

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Oct 25, 2006

#3

• Oct 25, 2006

• #3

+1 I'm in the same situation myself right now

 

68converted

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#4

• Oct 25, 2006

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Man this is a drag! I did figure out that using a tube bending tool is just about useless. I have been making my bends around various size pipes, works pretty well.

 

LMan

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Oct 25, 2006

#5

• Oct 25, 2006

• #5

engine is the LAST thing you install

 

68converted

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#6

• Oct 25, 2006

• #6

Yeah, until you find out the MC is F'd up and the lines are rusted solid, and you strip the nuts to holy heck and you get pissed and start busting a gasket, and then you give up and start cutting lines. Yeah, it sucks.

 

Rusty67

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#7

• Oct 25, 2006

• #7

68converted said:

Man this is a drag! I did figure out that using a tube bending tool is just about useless. I have been making my bends around various size pipes, works pretty well.

Click to expand...

Maybe you are using one of those crappy ones ? I used a few different tools I borrowed from people and was very unhappy with them all until I found the "pliers type" tube bender. This sucker has always done right by me, works like a champ. I even had a few people ask me if the lines I made were factory lines the bends were so good =)

 

joesgt281

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Oct 26, 2006

#8

• Oct 26, 2006

• #8

blue65coupe said:

+1 I'm in the same situation myself right now

Click to expand...

+2
and I'm adding a line-loc and an adjustable proportioning valve

 

68converted

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Oct 26, 2006

#9

• Oct 26, 2006

• #9

Rusty67 said:

Maybe you are using one of those crappy ones ? I used a few different tools I borrowed from people and was very unhappy with them all until I found the "pliers type" tube bender. This sucker has always done right by me, works like a champ. I even had a few people ask me if the lines I made were factory lines the bends were so good =)

Click to expand...

Mine was about $40 bucks, not sure if that is crappy or not, but it was the only unit that 4 diff parts stores stocked. I found that using one of those fat rubber gripped screw drivers works awesome. (at least for the 1/4 and 3/16th) tubes). Nice tight bends too. For the bigger tubes that I am doing the AOD lines and the bigger stuff for Fuel EFI, the bender is much better.

 

Rusty67

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#10

• Oct 26, 2006

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The one I have is the one that looks like a pair of pliers (the top one). The other rounded one sux. I've never been able to use them with any success.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-TUBING-BENDER...tter-pipe_W0QQitemZ130037203524QQcmdZViewItem

 

Rusty67

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double posted, sorry

 

Tim65GT

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Feb 24, 2004

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Oct 27, 2006

#12

• Oct 27, 2006

• #12

I have the top one too and didn't use it for the 3/16 steel brake line. It bends rather easy without kinking.

I bent a one peice 3/8 steel fuel line from front to back along side of the brake line. I needed the tool for that, but I was cursing it the whole time I was using it. It's just a cheap peice of crap.

I ended up mounting the wheels on a jig in my vise. I'm sure ther is a better tool out there, but for as much tubing as I bend, I can put up with the cheap crap.

 

spirockp

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Mar 26, 2004

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Oct 27, 2006

#13

• Oct 27, 2006

• #13

Don't tell me that! (Which I already knew)

Guess what I'm starting this weekend.

 

68converted

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Oct 29, 2006

#14

• Oct 29, 2006

• #14

my only suggestion is to use a 16" piece of hanger wire to mock up the bend you want to do then bend away. Also, you can aways bend away from a tight area then twist or rotate the tube into position. This is how I was able to keep mine close to the trans and engine without shooting myself.

 

Rusty67

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#15

• Oct 29, 2006

• #15

68converted said:

my only suggestion is to use a 16" piece of hanger wire to mock up the bend you want to do then bend away. Also, you can aways bend away from a tight area then twist or rotate the tube into position. This is how I was able to keep mine close to the trans and engine without shooting myself.

Click to expand...

A hanger ? Thats a great trick.... I'll have to remember that =)

 

Marshall

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Nov 22, 2000

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Qld Australia

Oct 30, 2006

#16

• Oct 30, 2006

• #16

For you guys who intend to keep your Stang forever or run on salty roads fitting the stainless brake line nuts is a good idea. So too is stainless brake lines.

You will probably have to get the flares done at a brake shop if you use stainless lines as the tube is too hard for a 'home' flaring tool.

M

 

B

BB1966

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Dec 1, 2004

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Beaufort , NC USA!!!!

Oct 30, 2006

#17

• Oct 30, 2006

• #17

I bent all my lines out of stainless and flaired them....there is NO way I would try it if the engine was in. I even put the adjustable prop valve inside by the driver seat.