Note to self... make brake lines before engine install.
- Thread starter 68converted
- Start date
Man this is a drag! I did figure out that using a tube bending tool is just about useless. I have been making my bends around various size pipes, works pretty well.
LMan
Founding Member
Yeah, until you find out the MC is F'd up and the lines are rusted solid, and you strip the nuts to holy heck and you get pissed and start busting a gasket, and then you give up and start cutting lines. Yeah, it sucks.
68converted said:
Maybe you are using one of those crappy ones ? I used a few different tools I borrowed from people and was very unhappy with them all until I found the "pliers type" tube bender. This sucker has always done right by me, works like a champ. I even had a few people ask me if the lines I made were factory lines the bends were so good =)
Rusty67 said:
Mine was about $40 bucks, not sure if that is crappy or not, but it was the only unit that 4 diff parts stores stocked. I found that using one of those fat rubber gripped screw drivers works awesome. (at least for the 1/4 and 3/16th) tubes). Nice tight bends too. For the bigger tubes that I am doing the AOD lines and the bigger stuff for Fuel EFI, the bender is much better.
The one I have is the one that looks like a pair of pliers (the top one). The other rounded one sux. I've never been able to use them with any success.
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-TUBING-BENDER...tter-pipe_W0QQitemZ130037203524QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-TUBING-BENDER...tter-pipe_W0QQitemZ130037203524QQcmdZViewItem
Tim65GT
Active Member
I have the top one too and didn't use it for the 3/16 steel brake line. It bends rather easy without kinking.
I bent a one peice 3/8 steel fuel line from front to back along side of the brake line. I needed the tool for that, but I was cursing it the whole time I was using it. It's just a cheap peice of crap.
I ended up mounting the wheels on a jig in my vise. I'm sure ther is a better tool out there, but for as much tubing as I bend, I can put up with the cheap crap.
I bent a one peice 3/8 steel fuel line from front to back along side of the brake line. I needed the tool for that, but I was cursing it the whole time I was using it. It's just a cheap peice of crap.
I ended up mounting the wheels on a jig in my vise. I'm sure ther is a better tool out there, but for as much tubing as I bend, I can put up with the cheap crap.
my only suggestion is to use a 16" piece of hanger wire to mock up the bend you want to do then bend away. Also, you can aways bend away from a tight area then twist or rotate the tube into position. This is how I was able to keep mine close to the trans and engine without shooting myself. 
68converted said:my only suggestion is to use a 16" piece of hanger wire to mock up the bend you want to do then bend away. Also, you can aways bend away from a tight area then twist or rotate the tube into position. This is how I was able to keep mine close to the trans and engine without shooting myself.
A hanger ? Thats a great trick.... I'll have to remember that =)
Marshall
Founding Member
For you guys who intend to keep your Stang forever or run on salty roads fitting the stainless brake line nuts is a good idea. So too is stainless brake lines.
You will probably have to get the flares done at a brake shop if you use stainless lines as the tube is too hard for a 'home' flaring tool.
M
You will probably have to get the flares done at a brake shop if you use stainless lines as the tube is too hard for a 'home' flaring tool.
M
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