Official 'Let's discuss Torque vs HP thread...

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
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Pensacola FL
:nice: This discussion came up in another thread...
I think it is great to get it out there because so many folks do not understand how TQ and HP define an engine's abilities and how they relate to each other.
The comments were on task for the previous thread, but to getting too far into the topic was beginning to hi-jack another member's discussion.

I don't know alot of the minute details and formulas involved in computing the numbers, however I do know how to put the relation in 'layman's' terms.

We must first agree on a few things:

You cannot determine an engine's character or strength without using both TQ and HP. One measure without the other is meaningless.

To build an engine soley for torque will always lead to an over use of restrictive parts that hinder horsepower.

To build an engine soley for horsepower will lead to use of parts that generally do not have restriction enough for flow velocity and will produce unacceptable torque for street use.

For the purpose of keeping things in 'layman's' terms, torque should be thought of as an engine's strength or power... Though 'technically' torque is an equation that takes much more into account. The bottom line is that torque is an engine's 'grunt' or power.

For the purpose of keeping it simple, horsepower should be thought of as an engine's ability to apply that grunt quickly. Again, the technical math behind HP takes much more into account... Words like work, speed, time, ect...
When it comes to a rotating powerplant, HP describes how fast an engine can use torque. The 2 terms are inseperable when it comes to engines.

So...
When I see a thread where someone has bought so far into the torque end of things that they are using combos like:
RV cam
Performer intake (no better than stock except lighter, smaller ports)
Aluminum heads that flow like ported 351w heads
1.5" primary headers
Restrictive exhaust
Tiny carb
9:1 compression

Then...
They pair it up with stall converter
Low gears
and say they want to do 13 in the quarter...

I am not surprised.
Articles and rumor have everyone too focused on tiny carbs, dual plane intakes, and torque in general. Most of this stuff, while based in fact, is also based on larger engines than ours. Remember that most magazines start their thinking with 350+ cubes in mind. Our engines are quite a bit smaller at 289-302 cubes. We also have over-square engines with very short strokes... in layman's terms: they like to rev. They are strong making power at slightly higher rpms and when combined with torque producing parts, they will generally come up short.

Back to my example combo...
A small cube, short stroke engine as described, built for torque alone will underperform when paired with low gears (3.70-4.30) and a stall converter.
Think about it:
The low gears will put the engine out of it's very low power band before the power can be used. It will also cause a low traction situation to become unbearable.
The stall converter is a terrible idea. If you increase torque without raising the rpm capability, why do you want to raise the rpm that power is transmitted to the ground? A 2500 rpm stall, for example, is rated to go on an engine that starts to make it's best torque at 3000-3500 rpm if you follow manufacturer recommendations... 500-1000 rpm below where torque starts.
So my example engine will make it's best power from idle to 4000 rpm, while the gears and stall let you only use say 1000 rpm of that band. I am not saying the engine won't be viable and spin past 4k, but the power will be on an ever increasing downward slope from then on. Why would you want to lose 3k of usable rpm?
This combo will never see 13s at the track without giving some rpm and HP friendly parts.
My diesel engine makes around 500 lbs torque, but only 210 hp, so the fact that it would suck at the track illustrates my point. You have to build in some rpm and HP ability to balance things out. HP, in layman's terms, will give you the ability to use that grunt faster and therefore put you down the track faster.

The point that brought this whole discussion up is that you must build some revs into the SBF. The nature of the design just leaves you with that fact.

Side note: SBFs are very rpm friendly engines. The only thing that prevents them from being nearly indestructable in N/A applications to 7k rpm is the stock rod bolts. The large bore and short stroke make an engine that loves to rev. So don't be afraid of building an engine that makes power at 6k rpms.
Don't be afraid to vere away from dual plane intakes that make a little more power grunt at 1200 rpm, but fall off quickly after 4000.
Don't be afraid to use a 750 vacuum Holley... afterall, the 2 barrels that operate mechanically flow the same as your stock 2v. The back barrels don't open until your engine wants them... when properly adjusted.

Sorry so long.
Just want a sane discussion without a hi-jacking.
Dave
 
Two engines may make 75 foot/pounds of torque, but if one is turning at 5,000 rpm and another is turning 10,000 rpm, the latter is doing more work than the former. Remember, torque measures force, but it doesn't measure actual power produced.

To measure that total power output, we have horsepower. Horsepower is torque times rpm divided by 5252 (Torque x RPM / 5252). Through this formula, we can calculate torque and horsepower and see that both are linked.

In the same example above, the engine running at 5,000 rpm and producing 75 feet/pounds of torque is making 71.4 horsepower. The engine turning at 10,000 rpm makes 142.8 horsepower. The force (torque) is the same, but since the latter engine is turning twice as fast, it makes twice the horsepower.

Which is more important, revs or torque? Neither, really. In the real world, high performance engines need both.

Dremel-type tools are handy devices. Say one is advertised to turn in the neighborhood of 22,000 rpm, a pretty astounding figure. However, it has little torque, so for some jobs you'll need a drill that turns at a fraction of that speed, but has more turning force. On the other hand, the drill is ill-suited for other tasks like polishing because it can't rev fast enough.
http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevebm/dyno_02.htm

Also helpful:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower2.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question622.htm
 
Thats a good "generalazation" & I'll generally agree to almost all, with out picking on single issues.
A few short comings of the SMF is they are externally balanced, for high rpm applications the hydrolic lifters (all motors who want to rev to 7K) will not go to 7k.
Change a couple of things in your example motor RV cam
Performer intake (no better than stock except lighter, smaller ports)
Aluminum heads that flow like ported 351w heads
1.5" primary headers
Restrictive exhaust
Tiny carb
9:1 compression
Need larger headers, 2.5" exhaust, Performer airgap intake, 600 cfm carb & a little larger cam (more lift & duration & matched to the heads) & with traction you can get close the the 13's.
 
Torque is ft-lbs, horsepower is ft-lbs/second^2. We can all agreee that torque is twisting force. One ft-lb is equal to a 1 lb force acting on a lever at a distance 1 ft from its fixed end. Horsepower, looking at the units alone, is the rate that this 1 ft-lb of torque is applied. I don't know of a simpler way to break it down than that.
 
i agree that you want hp more than torque, unless you are towing a trailer. as dave can tell you his dodge is a monster off the line but will run out of steam quickly. when i was in shop my teacher liked to say torque gets you started but horsepower gets you going.
 
jerry S said:
All I know is that if your car makes more HP than torque, you are driving rice. I think I read that here so it must be true.
So if I dyno at 410 HP and 400 TQ, I'm driving rice?

Now if you make 150 HP and 100 TQ - Then it makes sense.

My point is there are plenty of high horsepower cars that have much lower torque ratings. Not many of them would be considered rice burners.
 
dodgestang said:
That can't be completely true....I make 394HP and 355FT/lbs....I don't feel like I drive rice
:shrug:

It's true if you measure the torque in Newton meter (Nm), and not FT/lbs. 355FT/lbs = 481 Nm. So you are not driving rice.

Now, if you got more hp than Nm, you are driving rice. No question about it.
 
fvike said:
It's true if you measure the torque in Newton meter (Nm), and not FT/lbs. 355FT/lbs = 481 Nm. So you are not driving rice.

Now, if you got more hp than Nm, you are driving rice. No question about it.

My head hurts.

I turn the key, the car starts.

I press the pedal, everyone is behind me.

That's good right?



:banana:
 
Are we discussing street or performance situations? And are we discussing just the motor or the entire vehicle.

My ride was built to build horsepower through the motor and torque through the drive train for its performance use. With a small block this can be done, with a big block you only get torque plus more torque.

Someone hit on this a few replies back.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com