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Oil leak

  • Thread starter Thread starter demetri e
  • Start date Start date Jul 31, 2018
D

demetri e

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#1
  • Jul 31, 2018
  • #1
Novice here , getting oil spray all over I'm guessing from oil hitting belts, noticed it puddling up behind water pump? Is that a hard gasket to change?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Jul 31, 2018
  • #2
Not that easy to answer, it could be as easy as the o ring on the distributor (doubtful) or the timing cover leaking, more likely the front of the intake manifold gasket has dried up, what are we working on and how many miles?
 
D

demetri e

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#3
  • Jul 31, 2018
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91 lx 5.0 302 , no idea on the mileage of the motor bought the car few years ago , have not been using it because oil is making a mess
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#4
  • Jul 31, 2018
  • #4
Your PCV filter could be clogged. The resultant crankcase pressure could be blowing out the cork gaskets if they're still the originals. This was the case with my '90 Grand Marquis. The engine was covered in caked on dirt and oil (valve covers, timing cover, front accessories, etc.). The filter was completely clogged and came out in pieces.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#5
  • Jul 31, 2018
  • #5
You will need to clean all that gunk off as best you can then plan on replacing timing cover, valve cover, intake gaskets and replacing the pcv valve amd the screen under it, hopefully you will not need oil pan gasket and rear main seal but likely you will,
Be prepared to replace the water pump/timing cover bolts, they are know to break.
Vacuum lines probably will need replacement too.
Welcome to the club.
 

mikestang63

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#6
  • Jul 31, 2018
  • #6
while you are at it, take off those underdrive pulleys and that fire hazard of a fuel pressure gauge.
 

Boostedpimp

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#7
  • Jul 31, 2018
  • #7
I wouldn't go ripping eveyrthing a part right away unless your upgrading stuff. I personally would clean that area off completley with simple green, degreaser etc and run the car. Locate where the oil is coming from then figured out what needs to be tackled.
 
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demetri e

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General karthief said:
You will need to clean all that gunk off as best you can then plan on replacing timing cover, valve cover, intake gaskets and replacing the pcv valve amd the screen under it, hopefully you will not need oil pan gasket and rear main seal but likely you will,
Be prepared to replace the water pump/timing cover bolts, they are know to break.
Vacuum lines probably will need replacement too.
Welcome to the club.
Click to expand...
That's why I'm thinking of going with a crate engine because I have no knowledge of what was done to this motor or how old anything is , just wanna do things right and not spend a fortune on paying to do all gsskets especially rear seal and oil.pan
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#9
  • Aug 9, 2018
  • #9
demetri e said:
That's why I'm thinking of going with a crate engine because I have no knowledge of what was done to this motor or how old anything is , just wanna do things right and not spend a fortune on paying to do all gsskets especially rear seal and oil.pan
Click to expand...

Regardless of what's been done to the engine,...fixing an oil leak is gonna be cheaper than spending a fortune buying a crate engine. Any competent mechanic can fix a rear main seal leak in a day,..and tell you how healthy the engine is before you spend a dime doing that.

What's the point of asking for advice when you've made your mind up anyway?
 
D

demetri e

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#10
  • Aug 10, 2018
  • #10
CarMichael Angelo said:
Regardless of what's been done to the engine,...fixing an oil leak is gonna be cheaper than spending a fortune buying a crate engine. Any competent mechanic can fix a rear main seal leak in a day,..and tell you how healthy the engine is before you spend a dime doing that.

What's the point of asking for advice when you've made your mind up anyway?
Click to expand...
I've gone the wrong way before with spending money on my cars , I'm gonna try and tackle some of the gaskets myself , it's not the rear main seal most of the oil is puddle behind the water pump
 
D

demetri e

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#11
  • Aug 14, 2018
  • #11
mikestang63 said:
while you are at it, take off those underdrive pulleys and that fire hazard of a fuel pressure gauge.
Click to expand...
mikestang63 said:
while you are at it, take off those underdrive pulleys and that fire hazard of a fuel pressure gauge.
Click to expand...
What do you recommend , and as for the gauge why is it a fire hazard
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#12
  • Aug 14, 2018
  • #12
If you aren't having cooling or charging issues, I'd let the pillows go. If you do have either of those issue, go back to stock pillows. Underdrives aren't worth the loss of reliability.

As for the FP guage, it's a source of potential leak and fire. You can't really see it while you drive so really you should just install it when troubleshooting. Underhood fires due to gas leaks are a real concern. I've been reading a few posts about the rubber line on the fuel rail springing a leak. 30 years and e10 gas are starting to take its toll
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Aug 14, 2018
#13
  • Aug 14, 2018
  • #13
Stock pillows? Really? My aftermarket pillows are so comfortable!
Autocorrect is a btch.
I think he means pulleys.
as for the fp gauge, the vibration causes the gauge to crack when attached to the schrader valve and spew fuel and we all know what happens after that. Use a braided hose and mount the gauge to the fender apron, they make electronic fp gauges put they are pricey.
 
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