Oils and filters

FRAMEng · Oct 20, 2009

Hi Kilgore and Stang,

Regarding drain back valves, if the OE filter has a drainback valve then the Fram filter will have one also. The same goes for the relief valve. Those are both very important features.

When it comes to the “conventional wisdom” on car forums, you need to ask yourself one thing: Who’s doing the talking? Do they have an engineering background, are they spouting off information on something they’ve personally experienced, or are they just repeating information from out-of-date studies?

Gary

Mike97gt · Oct 20, 2009

FRAMEng said:
Hi Kilgore and Stang,

Regarding drain back valves, if the OE filter has a drainback valve then the Fram filter will have one also. The same goes for the relief valve. Those are both very important features.

When it comes to the “conventional wisdom” on car forums, you need to ask yourself one thing: Who’s doing the talking? Do they have an engineering background, are they spouting off information on something they’ve personally experienced, or are they just repeating information from out-of-date studies?

Gary

I don't think the fram equivalent of a motorcraft fl-820s ( the filter used on the 4.6) has a anti drain back valve..

Next time I get a car in that has a fram I will check for it. without one the 4.6's can rattle like hell on cold starts..

superstang46 · Oct 20, 2009

Mobil 1 5w20 and K&N filter @ 5K. I get some valve noise on cold starts, thinking of trying 5w30. Use it on both my mustang and her honda.

lang williams · Oct 20, 2009

superstang46 said:
Mobil 1 5w20 and K&N filter @ 5K. I get some valve noise on cold starts, thinking of trying 5w30. Use it on both my mustang and her honda.

there was a guy that said he was an engineer on the 4.6 development team an he said he only runs 3w30. I run 5w30 in the cobra an 5w20 in the mariner.

trombonedemon · Oct 20, 2009

O.k. Mr. Fram Engineer, all the structual and physic engineering can't build a perfect anything. These guys opinions you need to be worshiping. If they say your filter sucks goknads, chances are, they do. Don't you think we looking for great products? So basic common sense will tell you to listen to our comments as the consumers and build a better product. How do you stay in buisness buy telling us we don't know what we are talking about b/c we don't have engineering degees. Pretty ignorant statement. THE CUSTORMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT, unless you want to go out of buisness, then your engineering degree will be used to form a more stable and aerodynamic Big Mac!

Frankenstang838 · Oct 20, 2009

wow....interesting.......well...for now im stickin with RP for my oil.....is there anyone here that can confirm what i've heard about the MC filters from the dealership and off the parts store shelves? thats prolly my biggest question.

KBExperience · Oct 21, 2009

MC filters =

Ford wouldn't put something substandard on it as original equiptment!

oh and Fram =

Kornnut · Oct 21, 2009

I run MC oil in my car. I used others but the car ran and sounded better with the MC in it. For a filter I use the MC. I know a few guys back home who used fram filters and they busted open while going down the road. My brother had the same thing happen while his truck was idling in the driveway. I thought about trying a K&N but the cost is what has kept me from it.

GettinThere · Oct 21, 2009

FRAMEng said:
Regarding drain back valves, if the OE filter has a drainback valve then the Fram filter will have one also.

Curious statement.

Does the basic Fram filter have a drainback valve or not? I think the higher priced ones do.

FRAMEng · Oct 23, 2009

trombonedemon said:
O.k. Mr. Fram Engineer, all the structual and physic engineering can't build a perfect anything. These guys opinions you need to be worshiping. If they say your filter sucks goknads, chances are, they do. Don't you think we looking for great products? So basic common sense will tell you to listen to our comments as the consumers and build a better product. How do you stay in buisness buy telling us we don't know what we are talking about b/c we don't have engineering degees. Pretty ignorant statement. THE CUSTORMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT, unless you want to go out of buisness, then your engineering degree will be used to form a more stable and aerodynamic Big Mac!

Trombonedemon,

My apologies … I didn’t mean to say that people on these forums aren’t people we should be listening to. That’s why we are here. We do want to know what you guys think – car guys are the whole reason we’ve been in business for 75 years. Unfortunately though, there has been a lot of misinformation shared about FRAM filters and it gets discouraging because it’s what I live and breathe everyday, and have for the past 22 years. I love coming up with new filter technology and I test our stuff against competitors products and we do offer some pretty exceptional stuff. We have the only high mileage oil filter that features an additive basket that helps the oil maintain its viscosity. We also have a premium filter that features a metal screen back and double the capacity of an economy filter - it’s the only oil filter that can go 10,000 miles when used with synthetic oil. But most people don’t know about all of our products…they just assume we make cheap filters because of something they might have heard a while ago. I know I’m not going to change everyone’s minds overnight or even at all, and everyone is entitled to their opinions but you can’t blame me for trying to make my case. If you have never tried a FRAM filter and are open to it, send me your vehicle make, model and engine, and a mailing address and I'll send you one, then you can tell me what you think after using it.

Gary

FRAMEng · Oct 23, 2009

svttech76 said:
I don't think the fram equivalent of a motorcraft fl-820s ( the filter used on the 4.6) has a anti drain back valve..

Next time I get a car in that has a fram I will check for it. without one the 4.6's can rattle like hell on cold starts..

Hi Mike,

FYI, the FRAM crosses to the Motorcraft FL-820 are the PH2, TG2, XG2, or HM2 and they all have anti-drainback valves. That’s something that all filter manufacturers take seriously and make sure they don’t leave out if the OE filter had one.

Gary

Kilgore Trout · Oct 23, 2009

FRAMEng said:
We have the only high mileage oil filter that features an additive basket that helps the oil maintain its viscosity.

Please elaborate on this.

FRAMEng said:
We also have a premium filter that features a metal screen back and double the capacity of an economy filter - it’s the only oil filter that can go 10,000 miles when used with synthetic oil.

I would like to hear more about this also.

You should start a new thread specifically for you to answer questions in. I would suggest a poll also to determine who thinks Fram is good and who thinks Fram sucks or something along those lines for poll questions. Let me know I will do it for you if you want...

Another thing you should consider is Fram becoming a StangNet sponsor if you are really serious about incerasing your reputation and market share for Mustang owners.

deftsound · Oct 23, 2009

Nothin but mobil 1 and motorcraft filters baby

GDTrumbo · Oct 23, 2009

As I remember the Premium Frams have a screen encasing the filter media to help it keep it's shape over time.

I have been running 0W-30 Mobil 1 & Motorcraft filter. Instant oil pressure at start-up and NO rattling even in cold weather. I average 27.6 mpg on paper on my daily in-town and hwy. trek to work. I'm good with that!

The Motorcraft FL-820(S) incorporated a "silicone" anti-drainback valve years ago. My question is, what is Frams anti-drainbck valve material?

GT

mustang50v8 · Oct 23, 2009

i run valvoline dino oil. and either a motorcraft or a napa/wix. i dont get to napa very often so i usually run a motorcraft filter.

i read somewhere that the mobile 1 filter and the k&n filter were actually produced by the the same company and the only difference between the 2 was the outer casing.

FRAMEng · Oct 23, 2009

Hi Kilgore Trout,

You were asking about more info on the Fram High Mileage and Xtended Guard filters. The fram.com website has a pretty good description and cut-away illustrations of both of these and is a good place to start. After you look there if you have more questions just post them and I'll be happy to give you more details.

Gary

FRAMEng · Oct 23, 2009

GDTrumbo said:
As I remember the Premium Frams have a screen encasing the filter media to help it keep it's shape over time.

The Motorcraft FL-820(S) incorporated a "silicone" anti-drainback valve years ago. My question is, what is Frams anti-drainbck valve material?

GT

GDTrumbo,

The anti-drainback valve in the Fram Tough Guard and Xtended Guard are made of silicone rubber. The Fram Extra Guard and High Mileage use a Nitrile rubber anti-drainback.

The FRAM Xtended Guard filter has the screen backing to support the synthetic filter media.

If you have any more questions I'm happy to answer them.

Gary

BurningRubber · Oct 25, 2009

Well, I do have to say, that joining a forum and actively posting useful information when your product quality comes into question is a great start on turning the reputation around.

GDawg · Oct 26, 2009

And as the last poster mentioned, WE are the real proving ground. So state your statements but know that we are the guys that drive these cars daily and not on a short term proving ground. Either put up or shut up.

Fram is cheap and cheap for our cars. Old tests... well, prove it better. We are not a bunch of rice burners and many of us are not engineers with hands off university degrees but instead driving and maintenance experience and a lot of mechanical technicians for auto repairs. We try to figure out the bull **** that we are expected to accept. I'm still not a Fram guy. Prove us otherwise for what ever reason you are here for.

mikemac58 · Oct 26, 2009

Stick With Facory Filters and Fluids For Most Applications

Fluids - Ford and other manufacturers spend millions of dollars annually engineering fluids to ensure compatability with all the different metals, plastics, sensors, etc. that can be found in engines, transmissions, etc. Stick with the factory stuff as they have done all the testing for you already. When you add other fluids or chemicals you have no idea how they will react with each other or with the varying materails in the engine, tranmission, cooling system , etc. For example mixing gold coolant with universal, green, pink or whatever color coolant is on sale that day will get you a nice brown sludge that is great at plugging up your cooling system. Same goes for chemical flushes and unknownb reactions. Remember the OEM's have to cover their warranty exposure under base and powertrain warranties so thy have to factor in durability, with performance, cost, etc., when they develop their specs. BTW - Motorcraft now offers a full synthetic oil that I use in my two 5.0L.

Filters - Most oil filters have the by-pass circuit built into the bottom of the oil filter allowing all the junk that builds up there to be swept up and back into the engine should the oil filter go into by-pass mode. The Motorcraft filters have the by-pass circuit up top so if it should go into by-pass mode the oil does not sweep the junk out of the bottom of the filter and send it back ino the engine. I won't even get into the material differences and other stuff. If you want to have fun grab some new oil filters and cut them open. The content of some name brand filters is scary... I would not use them on a lawn mower!

Bottom line is you can do what you want to, and certain high performance applications may call for different approaches, but I am sticking with the factory stuff as much as I can. Just ask yourself "How many engines and transmissions have the oil companies or oil, air, and fuel filter companies designed, engineered, built, and backed in the last 100 years?". "Zero"!

Oils and filters

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