actually it's ONE problem but it's still a problem. this weekend i took it on a trip to the beach and after the 1 hour drive, when i got to my friends house to pick him up, the car just died as i was slowing down. i tried to start it up and it would but would die as soon as the rpms lowered. so i let it rest for about 30minutes and when i started it up after that, it started fine. took another 20min drive to the beach and as i was looking for a parking space, i had to keep my foot on the brake and gas so it wouldn't embarass me in front of all the chicks. after about 5 hours at the beach, it started right up and it did it again when i got back to my buddies house. WTF. and it doesn't only do it when driven for a while, last night, my bro tried to move it out of the garage and it took him 3 tries before the car would stay on w/o giving it gas. it runs great and strong even when i stomp on it, it's just when it starts up. OH AND IT DOESN'T DO IT EVERY SINGLE TIME I START THE CAR!!!!!!!! 
OK, I cleaned TB, IAC & MAF and still got idle problems, what's next????
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well if it want's to die after the car is hot I have the same problem as u.
i have to keep my foot on the brake and gas to keep it alive untill i start moving for a while then its fine.
if i shut the car off and start it after its hot it will surge and die in park or any gear, without keeping my foot in it.
i have to keep my foot on the brake and gas to keep it alive untill i start moving for a while then its fine.
if i shut the car off and start it after its hot it will surge and die in park or any gear, without keeping my foot in it.
bjl95mustang
Founding Member
I'm having the problem too. It's has something to do with the computer and the sensors. I ended up replacing the act sensor with a resistor from radioshack and I havent had the hot start problem.
Nik_95Cobra
Founding Member
Mine was doing that, and I had cleaned the MAF (With specific MAF Cleaner), The IAC, and the T-Body as well. None of those cleanings fixed the problem. I then decided to just buy the FMS 65mm T-Body, which comes with a brand new IAC and TPS, and that completely fixed the problem.
AznStanger3v
Active Member
cleaning the IAC will do nothing. its a mechanical moving part. all you are doing is getting the carbon off of it.reset the computer then set the idle with a .010 feeler guage
RacerRick
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
mo_dingo
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
RacerRick said:
It only controls IDLE SPEED, not idle quality.
Are you getting any codes? Have you checked?
Remove all of your spark plugs and see if they are all brown. That should let you know if you are running rich/lean & in which cylinders.
Scott
bjl95mustang
Founding Member
I tried 2 new act's. it seemnd like they were getting heat soaked and making the car to rich at at startup. I just mesuared the act ohms at startup and got a resistor at around the same reading. It has worked awesome sience then.
HoofnIt
Founding Member
Before you go and replace all of the sensors why not take a multi meter and a Hayne's manual and check each sensor? This may take more time but it will help diagnose the problem without throwing parts at it.
AznStanger3v
Active Member
mo_dingo said:
::high five:: for backing me up. all the IAC does is control how much air may be let through when the foot is off the gas and the butterfly is closed.
bjl
I'm glad that worked for you. With a resistor, the PCM is going to think the incoming air is always the same temp. It just seems to me like that may cause more problems than it solves. I don't think that would work here in Canada......OAT as low as -35 C in the winter and +35 C in the summer. Obviously it worked for you.
Cheers
I'm glad that worked for you. With a resistor, the PCM is going to think the incoming air is always the same temp. It just seems to me like that may cause more problems than it solves. I don't think that would work here in Canada......OAT as low as -35 C in the winter and +35 C in the summer. Obviously it worked for you.
Cheers
Im currently trying to figure out whats wrong with my car....it surges to 1800 rpm..and sometimes goes dead...and runs really rich at idle and really lean while driving...atleast thats what im guessing...seems like everybody has mixed opinions on what it could be....so happy searching if i find out what is exatly wrong with mine ill let ya know!!
might sound like a newbie(which i am) but where does the ACT go?? is it really expensive. about the plugs, i just upgraded to the ignition kit which comes with livewires and a hotter coil and dynomodule, i felt no difference. my old plugs were in pretty good condition, a little black but nothing major(platinum bosch) after the plug swap to AL 25s, it still did it. i installed the adjustable FPR(kirban) and the gauge and set it at 39. is that alright?? also, yesterday, right after the fpr install, i would lightly tap the gas pedal and the car would bog first and then rev. i really hope the ACT does it w/o the resistor cause that's a little too scientific for me.
The ACT sensor screws into the air intake tube (big black rubber tube), right after the MAF sensor and the air filter box. It's right on top of the tube with a wire plugged into it. You can't miss it.
It is quite cheap at NAPA. Under $25 I think.
Remember to disconnect your battery for a minimum of 5 minutes after you replace the sensor to reset your computer.
Cheers
It is quite cheap at NAPA. Under $25 I think.
Remember to disconnect your battery for a minimum of 5 minutes after you replace the sensor to reset your computer.
Cheers
95YellowGTbeasT
New Member
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