? on 95 GT 5-speed 351w swap

[95turbo351]

First off I've heard that the computer (a9l i believe) in my car was totally compatiable with a 351 without needing for it to be reprogrammed or messed with at all. I heard that that's what makes a 5.0 H.O. an H.O. becauses its computer uses 351 settings. Also I heard that the stock motor mounts should mate right up to a 351w. I got a 351w out of a 90 bronco and am planning on rebuilding it to replace my tired old 302. From what I can see the drive accsessories( water pump, alternator, ect.) should switch over seeing as how they appear to only be anchored to the heads on my 302 and I was going to rebuild these and use them on the 351. The 351 was a rear sump so I imagine that I shouldn't have an issue with the k-member I guess. I have the fuel injection lower manifold and was going to use my 302's upper. The block is in very good shape but was going to get it bored 0.30 over and get new pistons and reuse the 351's rods and crank. From what I heard the timing chain and cover should switch over and I was going to drill the two holes in the lifter valley for the spyder and convert it to hydraulic roller lifter's using my 302's oem parts. I'm running BBK long tube headers with a off road h-pipe and was wondering if I could somehow angle cut and re-weld the h-pipe to be able to reuse the long tubes. Lastly I was wondering if anyone has had any expirence using oversized bearing on the crank. My auto tech teacher pointed out that he didn't feel good about a small nick on one of the cranks journals that was inflicted during dissamembly. I'm wondering if anyone else has had their crank ground down on one journal for a oversize an if this a safe reliable fix, if not I'll just get another stock 351 crank on ebay or something. If anyone has any info on this I'd really appreciate it. This may sound like a weak combo for now but I have a Pro Turbo 302 turbo kit and a 81mm ball bearing hairdryer that'll go in my stang when I've saved up enough to get a good 302 dart block and what not to handle that kind of power, I just want a reliable fairly quick motor for now.

 

[MustangGT95]

I can't chime in on this one but I do not think a 302 to 351 swap is this easy. If we were talking about chevys...but were not.

I hope it is this easy because I would probably go 351 myself instead of building a stroker someday.

 

[parchisi]

First off I've heard that the computer (a9l i believe) in my car was totally compatiable with a 351 without needing for it to be reprogrammed or messed with at all. I heard that that's what makes a 5.0 H.O. an H.O. becauses its computer uses 351 settings. Also I heard that the stock motor mounts should mate right up to a 351w. I got a 351w out of a 90 bronco and am planning on rebuilding it to replace my tired old 302. From what I can see the drive accsessories( water pump, alternator, ect.) should switch over seeing as how they appear to only be anchored to the heads on my 302 and I was going to rebuild these and use them on the 351. The 351 was a rear sump so I imagine that I shouldn't have an issue with the k-member I guess. I have the fuel injection lower manifold and was going to use my 302's upper. The block is in very good shape but was going to get it bored 0.30 over and get new pistons and reuse the 351's rods and crank. From what I heard the timing chain and cover should switch over and I was going to drill the two holes in the lifter valley for the spyder and convert it to hydraulic roller lifter's using my 302's oem parts. I'm running BBK long tube headers with a off road h-pipe and was wondering if I could somehow angle cut and re-weld the h-pipe to be able to reuse the long tubes. Lastly I was wondering if anyone has had any expirence using oversized bearing on the crank. My auto tech teacher pointed out that he didn't feel good about a small nick on one of the cranks journals that was inflicted during dissamembly. I'm wondering if anyone else has had their crank ground down on one journal for a oversize an if this a safe reliable fix, if not I'll just get another stock 351 crank on ebay or something. If anyone has any info on this I'd really appreciate it. This may sound like a weak combo for now but I have a Pro Turbo 302 turbo kit and a 81mm ball bearing hairdryer that'll go in my stang when I've saved up enough to get a good 302 dart block and what not to handle that kind of power, I just want a reliable fairly quick motor for now.

First off, if its the stock computer, I doubt that its an A9l. 94-95 computer codes have four digits i.e. T4M0. That code belongs to the fox body 5.0's. The 94-95 computers are very finicky and you'll have to get a custom tune to run a 351.

Also, the 5.0 HO doesn't run the same as a 351. They have the same firing order I beleive, but you'll still need to get a tune.

All the accessories do swap over, and you can reuse the timing cover, but you ought to get a new timing set because the old one can stretch.

I would really consider getting a better set of heads and intake.

No clue on the LT's. Best bet would be to shell out the money for a set of Kooks LT headers made just for your application.

 

[1slow95]

I can't chime in on this one but I do not think a 302 to 351 swap is this easy. If we were talking about chevys...but were not.

I hope it is this easy because I would probably go 351 myself instead of building a stroker someday.

351's have a couple of expensive parts needed to replace the 302, mainly exhaust and intake, and lifters if it's a non-roller block. Other than that, they're almost the same engine. It really is a very simple swap.

The "H.O." part of the 5.0 is because of the firing order, which is the same as the 351. The A9L computer will handle mods better than our 94-95 comps, but I think everyone on here will tell you to get a custom tune no matter what computer you have. If you chose the right combo of parts, your engine can run just fine with the stock tune...Even with the 94-95 comp...It just won't be running at its full potential.

A couple more facts you'll need to know for the swap:
You'll most likely need a cowl hood.
351's use 1/2" head studs, so 302 heads will need to be modified for the larger studs.
All 94-95 front accessories/timing cover will bolt up to the 351.
I don't think the oil pan from the Bronco will work.
Not many companies make 94-95 351-swap headers. Most fox headers won't fit. MAC, Kooks, and I think Hooker headers will work. Im sure there's others that work, but those are the only ones I've heard mentioned over and over.

 

[95turbo351]

I do have a edlebrock jr. victor lower manifold for a carb if the computer would need expensive tuning done if switching to a carb would be easier. I just want to use a stock set of heads with a mild cam for now since I'm saving up for a Dart Iron Eagle block and a bunch of other stuff to go with my turbo kit. I'll probably end up gettin a set of Brodix or something when that time comes. The block can be converted easily to a hyd. roller block with my 302's oem parts but I'll probably get a set of new lifters and I hear you on the old timing chain since the motor's got 150k miles on it. Any idea on a oil pan that I should be looking for. Also Ford Racing said I could avoid the cowl hood with a special set of motor mounts and that I could even fit a 514 under the stock hood but I'm not sure. Appreciate the info guys

 

[1slow95]

You will definitely need tuning when you install that turbo setup and other stuff. The chip is over half the cost of tuning, and you can reuse it with your new setup. I would say it's about $400-450 on average for a chip+tune. With that said, it sounds like your setup should run ok without tuning. I would look for a cam with a LSA of 114 or higher. The cam in my 418 has a 114 LSA and it runs good with the stock computer. Not great, but it was good enough to drive it that way for a while.

With solid motor mounts(drop mounts) and a short intake, the 351 can fit under a stock hood. Im not sure if it's required, but moving the engine back an inch will help too. You can buy tubular k-members that will drop the engine and move it back. That may cause clearance problems with the exhaust and oil pan if your car is lowered.

Since it sounds like you're trying to do this for cheap, I would go with shorty headers, either stock or unequal length. Kooks headers will run you over $600 uncoated. You can try to use your BBK LT's, but I have a feeling you'll run into problems with the steering shaft.

At the bottom of this page there's a link titled "351w in a fox?!?!?!" that has all the information you need to know. The main differences between the fox and sn95 swap is that you don't need new accessory brackets with the sn95, and the headers are different. Here's a quote from that thread about the oil pan,

"First, you need an oil pan and matching pickup to mount the 351w into the Mustang that will clear the K-member. Moroso, Miloden, Canton, and FRPP all make exceptional 351w Mustang swap oil pans. Note that the FRPP version is a 5-quart capacity design while the others are 7 quarts. Crown Vicorias and Grand Marquis also have a dual sump 5-quart oil pan that will fit the Mustang K-member."

 

[95turbo351]

Yeah your right I was trying to go cheap for now since I just want to make it run for now since my 302's on its last leg. The reason I don't want to invest to much in the 351 is that my turbo kit is a Pro Turbo 302 kit and I was going to get a Dart Block and go back to like a 331 or something when the time comes to install the ball bearing turbo I got. The reason I thought the Bronco's oil pan would work is that in terms of basic design and shape that it looks identical to my 302's( small sump in front with larger one in the rear). So basically if the tune is more expensive then a carb I'll probably just put a 850cfm on it and leave it at that until I put the 331 in with my turbo kit. I know a guy that customs fabs exhaust and was going to get him to look at to see if he could make adjustments to it to reuse the existing LT's but if not I'll probably get a set of shorties for it. And as far as a cam goes I figured something like a B303 would probably be the most I'll be able to get since I'm moving to San Diego, Calif. and will need the 351 to pass their stringent emission tests. Appcreciate the info and link Low-5.0

 

[rj95svt]

If the block is a non roller block like you said you will need a small base circle cam with custom length pushrods to make a hyd. roller work in that engine. Honestly you would be much better off finding a 302 in good condition use some good head gaskets and studs and putting your turbo kit on it and run low boost to keep from splitting the block until you get your dart based engine together. The only thing you would have to do twice then is getting a tune.

 

[gunfish]

If you are moving to San Diego, you might want to reconsider the engine swap.
I have heard that it is impossible/not legal to register a vehicle out here with a different engine than it was produced with from the factory.