Forced Induction On3 Turbo Kit- Parts list NEEDED - 302 Stock Motor

Hirothecool1 · Feb 27, 2026

Hey, guys, I am new on this forum and wanted some really good input on the best route to build my fox.
Right now as the car sits, its a 302 stock motor and runs amazing. I was looking at going with a turbo because the car will be mostly a street car, I basically have my mind made up and want to go with the on3 kit which I think is the best bang for the buck. I just had a couple of questions and wanted your guys input on what I should do. Right now my goal is to be around 450 hp, I'm just not too experienced with these kits and the supporting mods that I will need. Right now, I'm just wondering if anyone's done a build like this before, and if they have parts lists. I've worked on N/A cars before, but never added boost to anything, so I'm totally in the dark about what I need. So any extra input is much appreciated for a newbie like me. If any additional info is needed, I can provide it! Thanks!
(What should I get as add-ons to the turbo kit)
(Should I upgrade my cam to something like a b-21)
(Can I run stock heads?)
(Can I run a T-5 if I upgrade the clutch)
Additionally, what mods should I do prior to adding boost? Rear end, suspension, tires (5 lug conversion?), subframe connectors.

gkomo · Feb 27, 2026

I see you're in California and said this is a street car, how are you going to pass SMOG with a turbo? I don't believe there are any SMOG legal turbo kits.

Noobz347 · Feb 27, 2026

If this is your first foray into boost, I would recommend you look for a supercharger kit and [not] a turbo.

It is much easier to install and maintain and requires fewer parts.

Moreover, you can leave the car pretty much the way it is except for injectors and tune.

DadLife0724 · Feb 27, 2026

You want to be 450hp with a turbo and stock heads?

2000xp8 · Feb 28, 2026

Sounds like you have a completely stock car.
IMO, you are a long way from a turbo.
Yes, do subframes, five lug, disc brakes in the rear and the suspension first, especially if it's a good quality car.

There is a reason people suggest the nicest jackstands with a turbo kit.

Bullitt347 · Feb 28, 2026

If going with a Turbo, your first purchase should be a good set of Jack Stands.

General karthief · Feb 28, 2026

DadLife0724 said:
You want to be 450hp with a turbo and stock heads?

Doesn't everybody??

AeroCoupe · Feb 28, 2026

So if you are not opposed to changing wheels and going five lug then just move to the SN95 brakes. Plenty of threads on going five lug so do a search there. Subframe connectors are damn near the first thing any Foxbody owner should do so definitely do these asap.

So with the T-5 they can and will live with around 500 fwhp at the crank but if you put slicks on the car the T-5 is now the fuse and it is only a matter of time before it leaves the chat. I would pull it, install a billet support plate for the cluster, check the end play on the input shaft and shim as necessary, get a good shifter (MGW or the like), and definitely a good clutch set. While you are in there get an SFI approved flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts.

You asked about the rear end. What do you want to know there?

Suspension is another vast area that you can spend a lot of money. If it is a street car then just put some nice dampers on it and if you want to lower it a little bit then springs like H&R or the like. I would at a minimum rebuild the front lower control arms with new bushings (Moog) and ball joints (SN95 units if you decide to go with the SN95 brakes) and do yourself a favor and pop for the Maximum Motorsport caster/camber plates. For the rear suspension just get a new set of OEM upper control arms and replace the bushings in the rear end with Moog's or the like. As for the rear lower control arms I am a fan of the Maximum Motor Sports units but any really nice tubular unit will be leaps and bounds better than the stockers.

I will defer to all the guys running boost here to guide you on that endeavor but I do know that most of them say that the stock cam works really well with boost so I would focus on the heads and at a minimum an Explorer upper and lower and Explorer 65mm throttle body. So just to clarify I do not own a car with boost so its just what I have seen over the years that seems to work.

Hirothecool1 · Mar 1, 2026

gkomo said:
I see you're in California and said this is a street car, how are you going to pass SMOG with a turbo? I don't believe there are any SMOG legal turbo kits.

I just got a smog check, so I'll have fun with it until that catches up for me.

Hirothecool1 · Mar 1, 2026

AeroCoupe said:
So if you are not opposed to changing wheels and going five lug then just move to the SN95 brakes. Plenty of threads on going five lug so do a search there. Subframe connectors are damn near the first thing any Foxbody owner should do so definitely do these asap.

So with the T-5 they can and will live with around 500 fwhp at the crank but if you put slicks on the car the T-5 is now the fuse and it is only a matter of time before it leaves the chat. I would pull it, install a billet support plate for the cluster, check the end play on the input shaft and shim as necessary, get a good shifter (MGW or the like), and definitely a good clutch set. While you are in there get an SFI approved flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts.

You asked about the rear end. What do you want to know there?

Suspension is another vast area that you can spend a lot of money. If it is a street car then just put some nice dampers on it and if you want to lower it a little bit then springs like H&R or the like. I would at a minimum rebuild the front lower control arms with new bushings (Moog) and ball joints (SN95 units if you decide to go with the SN95 brakes) and do yourself a favor and pop for the Maximum Motorsport caster/camber plates. For the rear suspension just get a new set of OEM upper control arms and replace the bushings in the rear end with Moog's or the like. As for the rear lower control arms I am a fan of the Maximum Motor Sports units but any really nice tubular unit will be leaps and bounds better than the stockers.

I will defer to all the guys running boost here to guide you on that endeavor but I do know that most of them say that the stock cam works really well with boost so I would focus on the heads and at a minimum an Explorer upper and lower and Explorer 65mm throttle body. So just to clarify I do not own a car with boost so its just what I have seen over the years that seems to work.

Thank you so much for the input. For the rear end, I was wondering what I should run. 3.77 seems to be the general consensus of what's best for a street car.

Hirothecool1 · Mar 1, 2026

gkomo said:
I see you're in California and said this is a street car, how are you going to pass SMOG with a turbo? I don't believe there are any SMOG legal turbo kits.

A great buddy of mine works as a SMOG technician, need I say more?

Hirothecool1 · Mar 1, 2026

2000xp8 said:
Sounds like you have a completely stock car.
IMO, you are a long way from a turbo.
Yes, do subframes, five lug, disc brakes in the rear and the suspension first, especially if it's a good quality car.

There is a reason people suggest the nicest jackstands with a turbo kit.

Where do you recommend I get these parts from?

AeroCoupe · Mar 1, 2026

AeroCoupe said:
So if you are not opposed to changing wheels and going five lug then just move to the SN95 brakes. Plenty of threads on going five lug so do a search there. Subframe connectors are damn near the first thing any Foxbody owner should do so definitely do these asap.

So with the T-5 they can and will live with around 500 fwhp at the crank but if you put slicks on the car the T-5 is now the fuse and it is only a matter of time before it leaves the chat. I would pull it, install a billet support plate for the cluster, check the end play on the input shaft and shim as necessary, get a good shifter (MGW or the like), and definitely a good clutch set. While you are in there get an SFI approved flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts.

You asked about the rear end. What do you want to know there?

Suspension is another vast area that you can spend a lot of money. If it is a street car then just put some nice dampers on it and if you want to lower it a little bit then springs like H&R or the like. I would at a minimum rebuild the front lower control arms with new bushings (Moog) and ball joints (SN95 units if you decide to go with the SN95 brakes) and do yourself a favor and pop for the Maximum Motorsport caster/camber plates. For the rear suspension just get a new set of OEM upper control arms and replace the bushings in the rear end with Moog's or the like. As for the rear lower control arms I am a fan of the Maximum Motor Sports units but any really nice tubular unit will be leaps and bounds better than the stockers.

I will defer to all the guys running boost here to guide you on that endeavor but I do know that most of them say that the stock cam works really well with boost so I would focus on the heads and at a minimum an Explorer upper and lower and Explorer 65mm throttle body. So just to clarify I do not own a car with boost so it’s just what I have seen over the years that seems to work.

Forgot to mention that if you do subframe connectors (which you should) go with full length weld in. Brands like Maximum Motor Sports and Global West are really good.

Once you weld these in any frame issues or misalignments will be locked in so make sure the car is square. Installation should be done with the suspension fully loaded and have the interior out of the car where needed for fire reasons.

Hirothecool1 · Mar 2, 2026

Noobz347 said:
If this is your first foray into boost, I would recommend you look for a supercharger kit and [not] a turbo.

It is much easier to install and maintain and requires fewer parts.

Moreover, you can leave the car pretty much the way it is except for injectors and tune.

I was looking at this 5.0 Vortech Supercharger kit, and it seemed great, but it didn't meet the power goals I was looking for. What could I do with this Kit and supporting mods to get as much horsepower as possible out of it (ie, bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors, smaller pulley)? I am also 100% camming the car because we are all ricers at heart, and I just love that 302 chop.

Noobz347 · Mar 3, 2026

Hirothecool1 said:
but it didn't meet the power goals I was looking for.

You have to keep some things in mind:

Peak HP on the street is just about useless. You're going to transit this range, not hang in it.
Average power is what you're looking for across the entire RPM range.

450 peak HP is an arbitrary number. Light to light, I could wax that car all day with one that make 300HP off idle.

The dudes are not kidding about the jack stands. Most of these El-Cheapo turbo kits eat themselves alive or just don't hold together well. Next thing you know, you're upgrading the turbo, piping, connections, waste gates, etc... spending more than you would on a higher end kit. This is on-top of fuel and induction upgrades.

If you're mostly stock, I would purchase a kit designed for that. You can always turn it into a [tuner kit] later when the bug bites you (and it will).

Vortechs are hard to beat. Yes, you will have a limit to what it can do on a stock short block but the same is true for turbo.

Depending on the year of your 302, you might already have forged pistons and rods. The 302 cast crank is pretty stout and not much of a concern.

Hirothecool1 said:
I am also 100% camming the car because we are all ricers at heart,

The OEM cam is damned good match for the OEM heads. Doing one without the other is useless. If you do these things, you will also need to improve the inlet tract from the intake all the way out through the throttle body, Mass air meter, inlet and filter. It snowballs quick.

On the ricer thing:
Um, no

Hirothecool1 said:
bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors

These don't make more power, they are support.

Hirothecool1 said:
smaller pulley

Worry about that after it's dialed in.

They make SC kits capable of a lot more than the engine will handle but also also install on a stock engine with minimum alterations and room to grow if you ever do go back and upgrade the long block.

Have you looked in to what is required for a turbo install? And you're in Cali? LoL No Bueno!

Browse though this thread and see what it takes to get to 450 HP. Look at the setup and see where it peaks, what the combo is, and take a look at the ones that list their supporting mods.

Thread 'Guess My H P !!! - The Dyno & 1/4 Mile Time Thread'

Dec 22, 2006

UPDATE - FastDriver (26AUG13):

After some recent interest in the forums, this thread is again active. Please feel free to add your own dyno, timeslip, and mods. The more details you can provide, the better. Posts without documentation will eventually be deleted. This thread exists to give people a reference on how parts and various combinations perform on the dyno and the track. At a minimum, please post the following: Heads/Cam/Intake, Displacement, Power Adder (if appropriate), and the power/torque or ET/mph in text as well as supporting documentation. Posts without this...

The way I figure, you're looking at $3600 turbo kit and that doesn't include headers and exhaust. You can throw gears in there too but you'd need the same for a centri blower anyway.

And don't forget... No matter what you go with, you need to figure a dyno-tune in there too.

DadLife0724 · Mar 3, 2026

I did read about the turbo you are looking at. It does claim between 400 and 500 HP on stock motor. I just don't see it man. So many things can and will go wrong once you start dogging the absolute hell out of it to hear your turbo. It would be smarter to build something that will last. I mean with that turbo, as Noobz said, it will probably eat itself and raise hell along the way so you will be tearing into your motor anyways. Just make it stout the first time around and go have a good time without the worries.

General karthief · Mar 3, 2026

Hirothecool1 said:
I am also 100% camming the car because we are all ricers at heart,

whut??
i've had many cams and never been a 'ricer' at heart...

AeroCoupe · Mar 3, 2026

So this is a ricer cam shaft...

Hirothecool1 · Mar 3, 2026

General karthief said:
whut??
i've had many cams and never been a 'ricer' at heart...

I dont really care about the power gain to be honest. just love the noise, feels ricey to me. Had a cammed C5 when I was 16, and the joy it gave me was unmatched.

Noobz347 · Mar 3, 2026

Hirothecool1 said:
I dont really care about the power gain to be honest. just love the noise, feels ricey to me. Had a cammed C5 when I was 16, and the joy it gave me was unmatched.

It's time to make the transition from Rice to Muscle:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2Rm5Dvs3WY&list=PLcVDdk9ePTEE-xnYKWiyA2tXWdQASm9kx&index=4

Forced Induction On3 Turbo Kit- Parts list NEEDED - 302 Stock Motor

Member

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

Active Member

I have been doing it wrong this whole time

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Member

Member

Member

Member

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Member

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Member

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

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