One wire, one more time...

[2nd Mustang]

Yes I tried the search function, but nothing was found. Will be changing to one wire, higher output alternator (100 amps) soon. Halogen lights cause voltage to drop to around 13 volts and engine starts to stumble until I pick up the rpms again (I also have a MSD6A box and Unilite conversion). What I would like to know is if the stock wiring will be able to handle the 100 amps or will this matter? I read an article where at idle, some 100 amp alternators put out lower amperage than at say 3000 rpms. Thanks.

 

[scurley]

What guage is the stock wiring?

 

[2nd Mustang]

Went to the "FAQ" of Powermaster and got most of the info I need. Apparently amps is the "pool" of power available and the voltage is the "pressure" in the circuits. Anyway, will be using 6 gauge wire (green to match the car to the solenoid in the engine compartment as my battery is in the trunk.

 

[rbohm]

since you are running the wire to the trunk you may want to use a 4 or even a 2 gauge wire with the 100 map alt. one more thing if you havent already set your headlights up on relays, that way they get maximum voltage from the batt. and while you are at it, upgrade the wire from the batt to the headlight relays to an 8 gauge wire.

 

[2nd Mustang]

since you are running the wire to the trunk you may want to use a 4 or even a 2 gauge wire with the 100 map alt. one more thing if you havent already set your headlights up on relays, that way they get maximum voltage from the batt. and while you are at it, upgrade the wire from the batt to the headlight relays to an 8 gauge wire.

I have 0 gauge wire from the solenoid in the engine compartment to the battery in the trunk, so I think a 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the solenoid should be sufficient. I only lose voltage if I have the headlights on and step on the brake at the same time. Idling with just the headlights on without stepping on the brakes doesn't draw too much. Thanks.

 

[rbohm]

I have 0 gauge wire from the solenoid in the engine compartment to the battery in the trunk, so I think a 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the solenoid should be sufficient. I only lose voltage if I have the headlights on and step on the brake at the same time. Idling with just the headlights on without stepping on the brakes doesn't draw too much. Thanks.

ok i was thinking you were going to run the charge wire to the batt in the truck, my mistake there. as for the headlight issue, you should still put the headlights on relays. remember that ALL the power for the lights goes through the headlight switch including the brake lights. the extra load of the halogen lights means more current flows through the switch than it was designed for, and thus your problem of the lights dimming. relays take the load off the switch. the side benefit is that your switchlasts much longer.

 

[2nd Mustang]

ok i was thinking you were going to run the charge wire to the batt in the truck, my mistake there. as for the headlight issue, you should still put the headlights on relays. remember that ALL the power for the lights goes through the headlight switch including the brake lights. the extra load of the halogen lights means more current flows through the switch than it was designed for, and thus your problem of the lights dimming. relays take the load off the switch. the side benefit is that your switchlasts much longer.

Good idea, which might also explain why my dimmer function in the headlight switch works weirdly (such a word?). I have to get the dimmer in just the right position to light the dash lights or maybe not. Oh well, one problem at a time.

 

[rbohm]

nope the dimmer switch is going to die on you soon. i know i have had that happen to me ain three different vehicles, and each time the dimmer switch was the culprit.