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Ongoing Overheating Issue - Used to be fan

  • Thread starter Thread starter 95GTvert[bv12]
  • Start date Start date Apr 21, 2011
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95GTvert[bv12]

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Apr 21, 2011
#1
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #1
Ok so everything was fine until i broke the electric connector to the fan when replacing the harmonic balancer for the second time. I figured this out the first time the car over heat and then the second time i zip tied it tight.

For a while on my drive to work the temp will quickly spike to the L on the stock gauge and then slowly drop back down to just under the O and then be fine for the rest of the drive. That was until recently.

Now it over heats after moving for a while. The only way i can stop it from over heating is keep the rpm's at about 3k while driving.

The upper radiator house is hot so i think the t-stat is fine.

Steam is now coming out of the end tanks of the radiator when it's really hot so i know it's actually over heating.

I can hear the fan when i park so it must be turning on.

I'm going to Napa tomorrow to get a new Belt as the one i have is crazy loose and old so i figure it's a good place to start. But what else could be causing this?
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Apr 21, 2011
#2
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #2
Since its RPM related... belt is slipping on the WP. Or a bad WP.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
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Vernon BC
Apr 22, 2011
#3
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #3
And if there is steam coming from the radiator end tanks then the radiator is leaking and not holding pressure. That also will cause an overheating condition. Sounds to me you need a new radiator as well.
 

95GTvert[bv12]

Founding Member
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Apr 22, 2011
#4
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #4
Yeah i was planing on getting a new radiator....although with everything i've read about all the after market ones these days i may just get a 2003 cobra radiator or something.

I'll buy the belt today and some JB weld for my current end tanks ...it's only leaking on one side so just need something to hold it together while i confirm what other parts i need to order.

Hopefully the belt solves some of the cooling issues..... the water pump doesn't even have 30k miles on it and it's a stock replacement.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Chicagoland
Apr 22, 2011
#5
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #5
If it's spiking and then coming down, you have air pockets in the cooling system. That would be consistent with leaking end tanks on your radiator, since they've probably introduced air into the system somewhere. What's happening is the coolant temperature is getting high enough to cause it to expand and you see flow, which is when the temperature spikes and then comes back down as it circulates through the radiator. You'll need to repair the leaks and burp the cooling system, to get any air out.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
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Apr 22, 2011
#6
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #6
Or a blown head gasket.

Kurt
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
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Pensacola FL
Apr 22, 2011
#7
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #7
Although a head gasket is not impossible (from the time it spent without a fan), I am with Matt on this.
First thing that came to mind when you were talking temp spikes was low water or air pockets.

I would replace the radiator before doing anything else.
That is most likely the problem, therefore throwing money at a belt, pump, or stat is sure to be a waste until you rule out the OBVIOUS.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
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Apr 22, 2011
#8
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #8
Another vote for a new radiator here. the coolant system MUST stay under pressure to keep from overheating. If it can't stay pressurized, the temperature WILL spike and you WILL overheat. I had a similar issue with the car getting really hot. In my case, I hadn't tightened my hose clamps enough. I found this out when I bought a coolant system pressure tester - basically an air pump with a special radiator cap with an attachment for the pump. I'd pressurize the system and water would leak from under a clamp. Tighten that clamp, and it would leak out of another one. Basically, whack-a-mole with coolant leaks. Once I got all the clamps tightened down and the system held 16lbs of pressure, engine temps went back to normal.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#9
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #9
ratio411 said:
Although a head gasket is not impossible (from the time it spent without a fan),
Click to expand...

I just don't want it to get ruled out.

Kurt
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
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Apr 22, 2011
#10
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #10
If the temp keeps spiking, it might be ruled in.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Jun 14, 2004
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#11
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #11
A blown head gasket is a very common cause of bubbles in the cooling system. Most of the cars I work on with those symptoms end up having a blown head gasket.

Kurt
 

95GTvert[bv12]

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Apr 22, 2011
#12
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #12
I won't rule out the head gasket either but i do have a few obvious things i should fix before taking the heads off. I may have gotten an air bubble in when it over heated the first time...and by over heat i mean i saw the temp getting high in city traffic and turned on the heater pulled over and turned it off only to have my coolant bubble over. Once it was cool enough i plugged my fan back in and added some water....maybe the bubble started then...If not maybe it's finally time for some aluminum heads.

So what should i do for a New Radiator any suggestions? I hear all the aftermarket ones crack.

And my belt is so loose i don't think i need anything other then my hand to take it off at this point so i kinda have to do that.
 
T

texmirage

Member
Dec 28, 2007
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Apr 22, 2011
#13
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #13
If you know you have a cracked radiator just replace it.

A couple of questions for me and that might help him...
Head gasket: wouldn't he see some water in oil if he has a blown H-gasket?
when is the last time you changes your radiator cap? If it is not able to hold pressure it can make the car run hot.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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#14
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #14
texmirage said:
If you know you have a cracked radiator just replace it.

Head gasket: wouldn't he see some water in oil if he has a blown H-gasket?
Click to expand...

Very rarely. Usually it blows from the combustion chamber to the water passage, and no water gets in the oil. It has to blow from the combustion chamber to the valley to get water in the oil, which is a greater distance.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Apr 22, 2011
#15
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #15
texmirage said:
A couple of questions for me and that might help him...
Head gasket: wouldn't he see some water in oil if he has a blown H-gasket?
Click to expand...

Only if it went between an oil and coolant jacket. A small leak would not always show coolant in the oil.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,296
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Acworth, GA
Apr 22, 2011
#16
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #16
Adam95GT said:
Only if it went between an oil and coolant jacket. A small leak would not always show coolant in the oil.
Click to expand...

There are no oil jackets. Oil goes to the top of the cylinder heads through the pushrods.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
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Apr 23, 2011
#17
  • Apr 23, 2011
  • #17
revhead347 said:
There are no oil jackets. Oil goes to the top of the cylinder heads through the pushrods.

Kurt
Click to expand...

Was just speaking in general sorry, didnt even think about that one. Ive also seen them go between cylinders which is a fun time...
 
J

jdl95stang

New Member
Dec 27, 2009
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South Carolina
Apr 23, 2011
#18
  • Apr 23, 2011
  • #18
I agree with ya'll on this. I would go ahead with the radiator replacement. All it can do is help if it is leaking anyway. Although, if it is a head gasket, at least they are fairly easy on our cars. You can diagnose a blown head gasket with a block tester. most shops should have them.
 

Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006
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#19
  • Apr 23, 2011
  • #19
I don't know what you mean by block test but a compression test or leak down would normally show it if everything else is in good shape.
 
J

jdl95stang

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#20
  • Apr 23, 2011
  • #20
A block tester is used to detect combustion gasses and such in your coolant.
 
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