opinions on a 3 link suspension

[mijo_latino]

This has been rolling around my head all winter. I'm referring to the torque arm, /panhard bar set-up MM has.

My Mach is only a DD for the 7 months of MI driving season. I may take it to the track,(never been, flame if you must). What I am looking for is to plant the rear better in your usual sprints up to speed and cornering. I notice the rear kicks sideways any time you lose traction and can be to free moving at times.

My first mod this spring will be the lower control arms, as you need to upgrade to these anyway. I don't think this will cure everything though.

What i'm really after is opinions of those who have this set-up or mods that help improve the solid rear. It may be overkill for what i use the car for, but if there is drastic improvements im all ears!

 

[Dragstr05]

Read up on MM's tech about their 3 link, its VERY informative.

From what I understand from it, number one the upper and lower control arms are trying to do too many things at one time; locating the axle vertically and laterally, so they bind. The panhard bar locates the axle and minimizes lateral movement, and leaves the control arms to do what they are designed to do.

In the end, the axle stays where its supposed to, the tires stay planted and the car goes straight. The main downside to the panhard bar is exhaust fitment. Only a few select companies fit because the panhard bar was designed around the factory exhaust routing.

Hope this helps.

 

[san~man]

I was extremely satisfied with just the LCA's and PHB from MM.

My setup was (all from MM):
H&R SS
Bils
Full length subs
Standard LCA's (you don't need the adjustable ones)
PHB
CC plates

With that setup, the car was extremely predictable and handled well. You would know exactly when the rear would let go, and it stayed planted on turns.

 

[wingless wonder]

I can't say enough great things about putting a panhard bar in. By switching to lower control arms with a delrin bushing and installing a panhard bar the car has become so much more predictable in the coner. When the budget allows I'll be installing a Torque arm and getting rid of my stock upper control arms.

As far as fitment goes, I have a pypes cat-back with 2 1/2" tubes and a Griggs Racing panhard bar. The only issue was I had to "dimple " the driver side tailpipe where it goes over the axel. Nothing a 3lb. maul can't fix.

 

[mijo_latino]

I've read mm's info on these parts way too much. I can't seem to get enough. I know they state that the panhard bar will force the uppers to bind a bit, saying that the factory rubber bushings give enough to not be drastic. probably something i woundn't notice.

Are the H&R SS springs stiff enough to handle the torque arm? MM says to switch to a stiffer spring in the rear.

I may do this piece meal instead of all at once and mod until i'm happy with. Just the idea of feeling the difference all at once is hard to let go.

First will be H&R sports/blisteins/CC's/LCA's/ and go from there.

The supporting mods for the 3-link seems to grow every time i research, full length subframes needed looks like?

thanks for the responses!

 

[san~man]

You may not even want/need to add the TA after your first round of mods. I was totally satisfied with my setup, and to me, it was perfect for the street.

You will have to change the rear spring if you do add the TA, but it isn't a deal breaker by any means. You also need full length subframes (didn't see them in your sig or on your mod list).

 

[TacBear]

I have the Kenny Brown Trackit: Adjustable LCA's/Panhard bar (removed quad shocks) and 5 way Tokico's and we had to slightly modify the passenger side tailpipe (magnaflow).

I love the way this thing handles now and it has built in anti dive geometry. When I accelerate is goes straight and when I jump on the brembo's it squats on all 4 wheels.